Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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24 | ★★ Gaia - mit Tony Marian ('89) and Malcolm Matheson ('18) | 75m, 10 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 2. Nov 2022 | ||||
Did first ascent of this back in Dec '89. More recently added a direct start and retro-bolted and straightened the top and added rap/belay anchors. Now much better!
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23 | Commander Dildo | 50m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Hard, exciting finish. Hangers don't fit on bolts properly, take wires to clip
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17 18 | Wild Blue Yonder | 110m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
scary, bolt needs replacing...crumbly smears up high and runout. 2nd pitch is superb
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24 | Commander Dildo - mit Mattyj | 50m, 5 | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Mo 25. Apr 2016 | ||||
Matt pulled a flake at the start making things harder. Had to pull on the draw Hard slabbing. Hard move at the roof, to more hard slabbing. Quite run out.
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19 | ★ Mind Meld | 15m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | So 18. Feb 2007 | ||||
With Kevin, pretty silly as you bridge up the gully for 3/4 of the route.
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21 | ★★ Huns Don't Cruise | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | 1992 | ||||
Awesome...don't let the runout look of it bother you, the bolts are in great positions and there are only 1 or 2 hard moves which are super well protected.
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21 | ★★ Huns Don't Cruise | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 12. Mär 2005 | ||||
beautiful arete which is just like peroxide blonde only shorter. not too hard for the grade.
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21 | ★★ Huns Don't Cruise - mit Tomas | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | Di 19. Jan 2021 | |||||
2 carrot bolts. Probably still a "safe"lead.
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21 | ★★ Huns Don't Cruise - mit Gill | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 25. Jan 2021 | ||||
Jebus this nearly had me in tears. Bad move doing this with a belayer near 30kg lighter than me. Not sandbagged on any way but spicy enough moves on the runout to the top to make you question your sanity. Missed the onsight due to a fiddly move near the beginning, otherwise clean to the top.
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22 | ★ Magnum - mit Jeremy Boreham | 50m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Mi 2. Nov 2022 | ||||
Crux pitch only (as part of first ascent of Eureka Uprising)
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21 | The Establishment | 110m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
Alt leads with Jeremy 1979
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12 | Escape Route | 45m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
LED with Jeremy
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16 | ★ Love On The Dole | 50m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 24. Nov 2004 | ||||
Nice move over lip
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19 | Dispossession | 60m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
LED with Jeremy 1977
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15 | ★★ Falls Corner | 70m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | 1993 | ||||
Great route, pity about the lack of pro
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10 | ★ Peaches En Regalia | 50m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | So 29. Jan 2006 | ||||
Quite nice... worth it if you're in the area
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21 | Finger Fantasy | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Vergiss es | 1993 | ||||
Short, hard exit, would probably make agood highball boulder problem. Neat closed seam/finger crack leading to fists
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12 | Winkie Wanky Woo | 8m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1993 | ||||
short
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18 | ★★ Burkey's Birthday Bash Corner | 25m | Beechworth Area | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 21. Mär 2008 | ||||
Sustained laybacking up the corner, then tricky to finish.
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16 | Punt A Parrot | 45m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Sa 1. Dez 2001 | ||||
not bad
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21 | Surface Tension | 45m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
LED with Mark M. 1979
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16 | ★ Old Flying Fossils | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | So 25. Nov 2007 | ||||
interesting, great views
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21 | ★★ Backless | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 1. Feb 2008 | ||||
great
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22 | Plaything | 12m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Sa 27. Dez 2003 | ||||
With Cam. Olmost got the onsight on lead but fell off the easiest move (and the last) in the whole climb at the very top!! ARRRGGHH!!
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16 | Teflon Tortoise | 25m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
nice, though a little cumbly on some smears
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16 | ★ Revenge Of The Lawn | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 25. Mär 2006 | ||||
With neets, hard start
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18 | ★ Cabaret | 30m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | So 23. Jan 2005 | ||||
nice crack and nice jamming. would be very popular if it the crack higher up wasn't full of so much dirt. probably will also never remain clean anyway due to the reservoir of dirt the trees are holding higher up near the belay. i failed on this climb only because of my lack of endurance.
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21 | ★ Dream | 60m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | So 23. Jan 2005 | ||||
if we had of read the update to the guide we probably would not have even attempted this...:first pitch is awful with a poor bolt runner". well the first pitch is not that terrible but the protection certainly is. guide said there was several bolt runners but there is only one until the belay. the block at the start is detached and moves and is useless when you're higher up anyway. the bolt runner is a rusty slightly bent bash in carrot that protrudes a long way. one more bolt a few metres up and i would have committed to the layback. even tried to thrutch my way up chimney style but it steepens too much and my testicles were getting crushed. even though we had a number five camalot is was pretty much useless. someone please at least replace the bolt. this climb is close to car park and easy to access that another bolt near the crux of the first pitch would mean it's get far more ascents too...hint hint!
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22 | Suffragette City | 60m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
LED with Ant 1980
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15 | ★ Getaway | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | So 26. Feb 2006 | ||||
With neets, short but fun
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16 | ★ Old Flying Fossils | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 25. Mär 2006 | ||||
With neets
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16 | Morning Sickness | 10m | Buchan | Durchschnitt | Di 22. Apr 2003 | ||||
A challenging route for beginners, the top few moves are pretty groovy. My nephew Chris showed amazing courage on this route, he was scared and shaking but kept moving, inspiring effort from the little fella
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21 | ★ Footbinder's Revenge | 12m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 1. Nov 2005 | ||||
very good. was very happy to do it.
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24 | ★★ The Tourist Route | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | 1995 | ||||
Excvellent sport route, hard last move and hard 1st move
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21 | Polo Is My Life | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1993 | ||||
below average, 1 hard move, cool feature though
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17 | Black Serpentine | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 25. Mär 2006 | ||||
With neets
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22 | ★★ Young Galaxians | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 31. Dez 2007 | ||||
attempted onsight solo, but didnt want to commit to the deadpoint into a skin-munching fingerlock on my first day here!! nuther time...
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23 | ★★ Interstellar Boredom | 38m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Can't really remember this one...must have been ok at least!
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17 | ★★ Quartz Route | 190m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 6. Jan 2000 | ||||
Great adventure climbing. Long walk in + 3 pitch rap in. Worth it. Climbed with Duncan.
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19 | ★★ Suicide Blonde | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | 1993 | ||||
Very nice, sharp rock that bites into your shoes, cool
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19 | Unnamed 1 | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Mo 17. Nov 2003 | ||||
impressive looking but crunchy rock underfoot when slabbing puts you off
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16 | ★★ Bonaparte-Crun Combination | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Klassiker | 2000 | ||||
Remember to take water... Dehydration is not pretty
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16 | Wee Willie Winkie | 6m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1993 | ||||
short
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17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire Variant | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Klassiker | So 7. Mär 2004 | ||||
I think we did this variant - awesome bulging handcrack
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11 | ★ F*cking told you so | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Mo 17. Apr 2006 | ||||
Delecate climbing + fiddley protection, good mixture of crack and slab climbing.
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20 | ★ Delicate Dalliance | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
I am not sure but I think It was this climb and it was run out on at times and some very tenious viciousness going on
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19 | Unnamed 1 | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Mi 31. Dez 2008 | ||||
Hard for old men like me. Harder then it looks
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17 | ★ The Grand Old Duke of York Direct Finish | 45m | Wulgulmerang | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
did this a couple of years ago with Jayd Wieland. Protection not that great on the first couple of pitches
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23 | Pooky | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
seconded Ant 1982
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19 | Unnamed 1 | 25m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Mi 26. Dez 2007 | ||||
Scary finish way above the bolt with ugly fall potential.
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22 | ★★ High Time | 92m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
alt leads with Mark M. 1979
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26 | Rubber Neck | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1995 | ||||
Clipping the 2nd bolt is the hardest part, take double ropes for ease of safe clipping!!
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11 | Choss Corner | 15m | Buchan | Durchschnitt | Di 22. Apr 2003 | ||||
Good beginner climb, great bolts on top very new and solid. My nephews first climb!
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18 | Moondance | 20m | Mount Buffalo | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
LED with Simon K. 1977
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16 | ★ Pickled Turnip | 25m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Mo 15. Nov 2004 | ||||
Good fun, Gets interesting on the second half
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10 | ★ Peaches En Regalia | 50m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 24. Nov 2007 | ||||
followed adrian
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19 | ★★ Suicide Blonde | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 25. Mär 2006 | ||||
With neets, hard start
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17 | Black Serpentine | 20m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | So 25. Nov 2007 | ||||
needs cleaning
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15 | Lovely Legs | 10m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Above and right (southeast) roughly 60mtrs from the MOuses Tail is a cleaned finger crack line on a slab - alternatively approach from the Pintle in. Not too bad. Good gear, easy slab, cruxy start.
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22 | ★ Susan's Slab | 18m | Mount Buffalo | Mi 31. Dez 2008 | |||||
Sustained slab climbing. Our leader took a spill from the top holds.
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21 | Smart Move | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Hard for the grade, slippery
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12 | Now We Are Six | 8m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1993 | ||||
short
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15 | ★★ In For A Swim | 80m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 7. Jan 2003 | ||||
very vegetated
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19 | ★ Something Under The Bed Is Drooling | 30m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 11. Mär 2006 | ||||
With neets
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16 | ★ Love On The Dole | 50m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Couldn't get onto the awkward diagonal crack ... next time!
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14 | ★★ Poor Man's Piles | 18m | Corryong | ★★ Sehr gut | So 3. Okt 2004 | ||||
Hard jamming
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21 | ★★ No Holds Barred | 190m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 14. Dez 1994 | ||||
P2 very runout
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20 | ★ Strange Angels | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 7. Feb 2004 | ||||
scary start
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21 | K.T. 26 | 8m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1993 | ||||
average
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13 | The End Of The World | 300m | Mount Buffalo | Vergiss es | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Alt leads with Phillip 1975
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16 | When We Were Very Young | 8m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | 1993 | ||||
short
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21 | ★★ Backless | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 1. Mär 2003 | ||||
wicked belay at the start, very airy, nice crack, shame about the ass scraping finish
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20 | ★ Strange Angels | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 12. Mär 2005 | ||||
bouldery start and thin crux finish...nice
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20 | ★ Strange Angels | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 19. Jan 2010 | ||||
saucy
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17 | Black Serpentine | 20m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Di 27. Dez 2011 | ||||
Rock is a little fragile
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16 | ★ Old Flying Fossils | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Di 27. Dez 2011 | ||||
Rock is a little fragile
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16 | Teflon Tortoise | 25m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Fr 24. Feb 2012 | ||||
Very teflony and very crap hardware hook bolts.
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19 | ★ Turtles All the Way Down | 30m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Fr 24. Feb 2012 | ||||
Not bad - though I probably won't come back to lead it.
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21 | ★ Footbinder's Revenge | 12m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Fr 1. Apr 2011 | ||||
I remember desperate high stepping on crystals. In 2011.
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18 16 | ★★ The Establishment Direct Start | 25m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 2. Dez 2013 | ||||
Burly climbing that is not much easier than Hard Rain second pitch.
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15 | Lovely Legs - mit Ben Wright, Rod Kerr | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 25. Jan 2014 | ||||
seriously Ben! maybe I am just not meant to body jam in a chimney type thing - don't forget the knee pads otherwise you wont have Lovely Legs!
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21 | ★★ Backless - mit Leighton Modra | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 18. Okt 2014 | ||||
Fantastic!! One of the most beautiful climbs I've ever done!
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16 | ★★ Bonaparte-Crun Combination | 120m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | So 28. Dez 2014 | ||||
Great climbing but very vegetated in parts
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18 | ★ Cabaret | 30m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Sa 3. Jan 2015 | ||||
This was a proper jam session! Tape required.
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23 | ★★ Hurricane | 38m | Mount Buffalo | Sa 21. Feb 2015 | |||||
Well protected with solid carrots. Needs bit of a clean.
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21 | The Establishment | 110m | Mount Buffalo | Sa 21. Feb 2015 | |||||
Second P1 at grade 18ish.
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23 | ★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish | 120m | Mount Buffalo | Sa 21. Feb 2015 | |||||
Second top pitch from above the bulge at 21ish.
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10 | ★ The Indelible Shuffle | 83m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Fr 15. Jan 2016 | ||||
Bolt belay at the end of pitch 1.
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15 | ★★ Falls Corner - mit Mattyj | 70m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | So 3. Apr 2016 | ||||
Lead a sensational 20m pitch up a right facing flake / corner into the base of Pussy on the Prowl. Went around grade 15 so was probably the bottom of Falls Corner. Deserves stars.
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21 | ★★ Backless - mit Mattyj | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 2. Apr 2016 | ||||
Really enjoyable. A bit dicky getting from the ledge at the top of the crack to a belay spot.
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22 | ★★ High Time - mit Mattyj, gaetan | 92m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 23. Apr 2016 | ||||
Great climbing but bad bolting. Rapped to the base on a 70m rope. Climbed back out in 2 pitches. Bottom pitch up to the slab had some sensational face climbing, but I wouldn't lead it on the gear available. Top bulgy arete was a bit dirty.
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23 | ★★ Pearly Gates - mit Mattyj | 110m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | So 10. Apr 2016 | ||||
Hard slabbing. Took a sizable fall off the grade 20 pitch 2.
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9 | Gawker - mit Aaron Scobie | 33m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | So 12. Mär 2017 | ||||
Could be good if the first half was clean.
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14 8 | Impetus | 63m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Mi 19. Apr 2017 | ||||
second pitch needs to be regraded to 14/15 getting to third pitch was stupid ran up 18 to the right.
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8 |
Impetus
- mit
Will Massey
2
| 63m | Mount Buffalo | Durchschnitt | Mi 19. Apr 2017 | ||||
Don't bother with the chossy first pitch, just rap to the big grassy ledge and climb from there.
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26 | Rubber Neck | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Gut | Fr 27. Okt 2017 | ||||
Crimpy, crux at the second clip, 1 massive ring at the top, abseil to clean
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17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire Variant - mit Hilary | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ★★ Sehr gut | So 14. Jan 2018 | ||||
Original P1 into variant P2. Did a foot traverse along the horizontal which felt a little spooky! Love the final hand crack, felt pretty hard for 17.
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20 | Precious - mit Jemma Herbert | 20m | Mount Buffalo | So 11. Feb 2018 | |||||
Hard and dirty
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13 | Maharajah Chimney Variant Start - mit Philly | 12m | Mount Buffalo | Mo 12. Mär 2018 | |||||
Fun climb!
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17 | Hopes Deshed - mit Geoff Gledhill | 30m | Mount Buffalo | Mo 10. Mär 2008 | |||||
Pretty cool to 2nd one of the first ascensionists on a repeat of one of his old routes! Embarrassing at the same time because I had a nightmare on it (not having ever really done much jamming before). FA Chris Baxter and Geoff Gledhill 27/01/1991
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