Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | Gebiet | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★★ Backless
From the 2 carrot belay, follow the dramatic corner. When the difficulties ease, traverse left to follow cracks to the top. | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★ Strange Angels
Starts 1/2 m right of Maharajah. Pull onto the wall via a jug then step right and then more easily but boldly up. Move right to incipient flake, then up past two fixed hangers to the ledge at the top of the block. Belay/abseil rings. Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1991 | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner
| 70m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | ★★ Huns Don't Cruise
Nice slab climbing and very committing. Make sure you're comfortable with the fall from the top before committing to the climb. Probably a good idea to have a heavy belayer! Erstbegehung: Dave Fearnley & Ian Anger, 1982 | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★★ Glace
Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010). | 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | ★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
| 120m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★★★ Glossop Skins Pitch 3
| 30m | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | ★ Cabaret
| 30m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★ Susan's Slab
| 18m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★★ Bonaparte-Crun Combination
| 120m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | ★★ Pearly Gates
| 110m | Mount Buffalo | ||
19 | ★ Something Under The Bed Is Drooling
The left hand line on the front of the buttress beloextw Maharajah and around right from Compulsion. The next few routes start from the top of a boulder. Tricky scramble up or rap down and left from the Sunrunner anchors. | 30m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★★ Sunrunner
Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left. Erstbegehung: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger | 18m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire Variant
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
10 | ★ Peaches En Regalia
| 50m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | Black Serpentine
these 2 routes are a short scrub bash down from CS. they look like they would climb well, however, need a good old fashioned clean | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | The Establishment
| 110m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | ★★ Hurricane
| 38m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★★ Superfine
Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010). | 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
19 | ★ Mind Meld
5m right of 'Needlepoint For Beginners'. | 15m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | Bloodnok Direct Start
| 18m | Mount Buffalo | ||
19 | Unnamed 1
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
11 | ★ Mod-Diff
It is probable that this is essentially a repeat of The China Way after the initial crack. Start as for Gawker.
Erstbegehung: Rein Kamar, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1968 | 70m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | ★ Bloodrot
| 26m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | ★★ No Holds Barred
| 190m | Mount Buffalo | ||
12 | The Mudshark
| 91m | Mount Buffalo | ||
24 | ★★ The Tourist Route
| 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | ★★ Castles In The Sand
The right arete of the upper wall right of Maharajah. Erstbegehung: Ian Anger & Jane Wilkinson, 1992 | 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ Love On The Dole
| 50m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★ Human Edge
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | Wild Blue Yonder
Access best by using a 100m static to abseil the approx 85m (?) from the top of Home James, down that route, continuing down past 'Back in an Hour' and through the hole/'cave' formed by chock-stones which brings you out onto a large grassy ramp/ledge. Stay on the abseil rope for the short scramble down rightward (facing in) to a bolt anchor above Wild Blue Yonder. Another short (30m?) abseil from bolts gets you to the start of that climb (at the ledge above Goat's Head Soup). The original route (17, scarier with just a single carrot bolt) started about 10m left of Goat Island - one or two moves from the left end of the ledge accessed the big diagonal ramp/line. This better version (18, more direct and well protected) starts about 6 or 7 m right of the original.
Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff (as described) & Geoff Gledhill December 2020 Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Roseberry January '77 (original route) | 110m, 3, 5 | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | ★★ In For A Swim
| 80m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★ The Grand Old Duke of York Direct Finish
| 45m | Wulgulmerang | ||
16 | Morning Sickness
Erstbegehung: Barry Wells | 10m | Buchan | ||
15 | Horn Again
| 40m | Mount Buffalo | ||
13 | Grunter
| 78m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Desperation Crack
| 55m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★★ High Time
| 92m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Wee Willie Winkie
| 6m | Mount Buffalo | ||
11 | Sunshine Superman
| 55m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | Commander Dildo
Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.
Erstbegehung: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982 | 50m, 2, 5 | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ Old Flying Fossils
| 20m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | Emperor
| 150m | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | ★ Ranger's Delight
| 16m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ The White Feather
| 100m | Mount Buffalo | ||
13 | Maharajah Chimney Variant Start
| 12m | Mount Buffalo | ||
26 | Rubber Neck
| 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | The Ken Rosebury Dead Cow Frottage Crack
| 20m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★ Goat Island Variant
| 40m | Mount Buffalo | ||
13 | Romancing Robyn
Erstbegehung: Andy Mattinson | 10m | Buchan | ||
19 | ★★ Suicide Blonde
| 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | The Fallen Angel
| 220m | Mount Buffalo | ||
25 | ★ Salt Lake City
| 170m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ Revenge Of The Lawn
| 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
11 | Choss Corner | 15m | Buchan | ||
16 | ★★ The Establishment Direct Start
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Teflon Tortoise
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
13 | Working Holiday | 10m | Buchan | ||
21 | Finger Fantasy
| 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | Calliope
| 90m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Punt A Parrot
| 45m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★★ Black Road
The prominent R-leaning diagonal crack down from Ring-a-Ding Ding Erstbegehung: Ian Lewis, 1974 Erste freie Begeh.: Henry Barber, 1975 | 45m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | ★★★ Pretty Girls With Long Knives
| 130m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★★ Quartz Route
| 190m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★ Waiting For Bangla
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | ★ Getaway
Erstbegehung: Cameron McKenzie & Anita Gowers, 2006 | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | ★★ Runnel Of Love
| 45m | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | Punk Condom
| 55m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Dirty Dancing
| 75m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | The Polymer Pathway
| 63m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | ★ Primary
Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack .... Erstbegehung: Eddie Ozols & Greg Pritchard, 1982 Erste freie Begeh.: Peter Croft & M Matheson, 1990 | 40m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★ Delicate Dalliance
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
13 | Erogenous Zone
Erstbegehung: Allan Campbell & Leanne Young | 7m | Buchan | ||
21 | ★ Goat Island
Bolts replaced 2021. | 45m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | ★ Footbinder's Revenge
| 12m | Mount Buffalo | ||
25 | Pathway to Mass Consumption
Erstbegehung: 2005 | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
7 | The China Way
The corner left of the ledge which runs across the cliff low down. It's not certain which corner it is.
Erstbegehung: Greg Lovejoy & George Glover, 1961 | 49m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | K.T. 26
| 8m | Mount Buffalo | ||
24 | ★ The Initiation Direct Finish
| 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | Polo Is My Life
| 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
25 | Straight Edge
| 160m | Mount Buffalo | ||
12 | Winkie Wanky Woo
| 8m | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | Lovely Legs
Erstbegehung: Paul Martin & Rick Webb | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ||
9 | Lazy Days | 10m | Buchan | ||
8 | Impetus
Not a bad route, especially the first 30m or so. Start below the middle of 3 short cracks leading to the big ledge about 9m up.
Erstbegehung: Bruno Zielke, Peter Watlin, Peter Watling & P.Selliani, 1968 | 63m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ||
12 | Now We Are Six
| 8m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | When We Were Very Young
| 8m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ Pickled Turnip
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | ★ Cameo
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | The Crystal Edge
| 140m | Mount Buffalo | ||
10 | Penthouse Pet
| 12m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Jam And Cream
| 120m | Mount Buffalo | ||
19 | Carpet Bag
| 25m | Corryong | ||
13 | The Higher Heresies
| 45m | Snobs Creek | ||
22 | ★ Desperate
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
24 | ★★ Post Lament
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ The Currency Lad
| 78m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | Slunt | 24m | Buchan | ||
22 | Willie Make It
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★★ Cow Well Hung
Next buttress left facing out from Chickens in choppers, climb the face past 6 BR's. | 30m | Mount Buffalo |