Begehungen in South Face haben Beta

#4 nut, to cams purple .5, grey .4 and gold 2.

What an adventure. Had to rest and pull on gear to get over the lip of the starting crack which I would grade as at least 20. Got the rest clean which I was pretty happy about. A #5 and #6 cam would have been good for the offwidth. As it was, I had a bit of a run out to the top of the offwidth above a #1 wallnut and blue microcam that I got in near the start of the offwidth...The finishing roof was pretty memorable too, cheered on by the crowd at the bottom.

Start must have been easier when the ground was 2m higher... Dogged on the higher of the two cams to do the first part. Rory lead out onto the crack between Sex Haunt and Jaunt for an exciting adventure, sat on the rope to get a piece out. After the bolted station, we climbed up the corner crack worked right jamming above us in the roof crack. Lovely climb

Great! Scary on the sandy start and freaky in the roof traverse but solid morning's outing

Done in two pitches. Got a cam stuck and had to abseil down from belay at midpoint to retrieve. Top section was great with good gear.

Top pitch seemed surprisingly stiff for the grade. Clipped one carrot.

The roof is definitely not as difficult as it appears from directly underneath. But, it is exposed and you don't want to fall getting to the clip. All the holds are there for you and the view is sensational.

Tougher than similar grade sixteens in the area. Didn't have a bolt plate at the carrot and wasn't that keen on the runout to the belay so I moved right into El Packo and protected the last section with some cams and a nut.

Second pitch was a tricky onsight with a bit of a hail Mary lunge for a hold. Not sure if we followed the right line.

South face always seems to offer good 'practice routes' and then deliver misadventure.

Used pre placed quickdraws on route just to the left of the crack

A Mt Keria highlight

Follow the leader.

Nice climbing, a touch runout, good -> polished edges.

Scarily committing, even on second!

Watch that second bolt on pitch 2. It's a bit run-out. I flubbed the clip, peeled off and and fell 2m past the belay ledge which is pretty wide. Could have been ugly.

Top section or route in particular needs a major scrub to get this going. Not 100% still on the right beta, or really where the route is intended to go (arete?)

Crux is V8+ surely. Or should I stop trying to static it?

Bens first multi, beautiful views of the arvo sunset

The Sex Haunt saga has come to an end. I finally balls'd up and led the second pitch & it went first go. Hesitated trying to clip the first bolt after the roof but managed to to push through. To top it off it was an unreal afternoon with beautiful views off the sunset.

Finisher.

This is the hardest 16 I have tried. Very slabby and lots of smears on sandy rock.

Nice one

Fun warm up, very short

Nice climb with a 1 move crux to the arete. Beauty views when you reach the anchors.

Probably the hardest climb I've ever tried

Still hard

Too small handholds for dad. Excellent problem, a bit harder than the 16s at hangdog!

Nice slab, bit crimpy.

The trademarked Keira red sandstone, and juggy pockets. Really nice!

Dad had a pull, could not hold the crimp. Then again, neither could I

Nice exposed climbing

Sketchy and polished in places.

A lot of rumble for a 14. The start made a demoralising introduction to outdoor climbing for Matt. Unfortunately he couldn't get past it.

Cool, continued the line up the obvious extension of down and going. Felt easier than the 2 16s to the right.

Good Trad fun through some lovely ledge gardens.

Fun, very thin in the middle. I felt it included the hardest move down low of travail and added some harder moves above it, so significantly harder. Very cool frictiony slabbing with some micro crimps and slopes. Awesome

These 2 16s were worth the trip. Everything I hoped for; exposure interesting slab moves, phenomenal views. Great!

First proper session. 2x laps, found the right feet for the outrageous dyno, might go sooon

Sent the first pitch clean on top rope. Now just got to balls up and lead 1st and 2nd pitch in 1 hit.

First time climbing the route to the top in 1 big push. Wasn't able to do the move to get over the roof so pulled on the rope to get past this section. Definitely lacking endurance, however I am another step closer to a successful send.

Warm Up

This felt very nice compared to a couple months back. Happy about the progress.

Led the first pitch after a couple whips. Felt quite nice apart from the move to 3rd bolt. Wasn't feeling game enough to attempt the roof section on 2nd pitch, but will definitely be back for another go