Begehungen in Rattlesnake Point von Gavin Smith haben trad-cpr oder ascent-date

Fantastic line. I didn't bother with the upper part, which looks easy, and went for the convenience of the anchor half way up, after the crux. Recommended. Glue-ins are unfortunately very awkwardly placed.

I must be missing something. The first 3m of this route is just desperate. If the fat flake to the right is the proper route, it takes serious pinch strength to use it. I flailed around with a first piece clipped from (nearly) the ground and exhausted myself, ended up aiding with slings through those first couple moves.

For what it's worth, a vertical hex in the very, very deep inward-flaring pocket was absolutely bomber as a first piece, and very important for keeping you off the deck (even with it it'll be close).'

Message me if you have any beta. I don't understand how these moves translate to a four-star 5.9.