Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6b | ★★★ ULA | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 4. Nov 2006 | ||||
We started from the Jardin des Ecureuilles and skipped the first 3 pitches.
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4b 5a | ★ l'herbetto | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | So 1. Aug 2021 | ||||
Easy, well bolted multipitch with a breathtaking view. Got a bit lost on the approach, but it is actually very well indicated if you start it in the correct place!
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6c | ★★★ Estamporanée | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 17. Jul 2022 | ||||
7a | FA ★★★ Le rateau d'argent | 250m, 3 | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 17. Jul 2022 | ||||
6b | FA ★ Liberées Délivrées | 100m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | So 17. Jul 2022 | ||||
6a+ | FA ★ Thème Astral | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | So 17. Jul 2022 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Le Pilier des Ecureuils - mit Etienne | 270m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
Polished...
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6a | ★ Bottes Surbottes - mit Mika | 100m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Les mains dans le sel (Le Mains Dans le Sel) | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
5c A2 5c A2 | La Discorde | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Moralenemia | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6b | ★★★ ULA | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Les Caquous | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6a | ★★★ La Demande | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ La pâte demande | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Liberte Surveillee | 130m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6c+ | Ras Lebolchoi | 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ L'Ange Raphaël | 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Valse Pour Manon | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c | Arbragifle | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ La Limite des Possibilites Humaines | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c+ | Diedre des Aixois | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c+ A1 6c+ A0 | ★★ Le Toboggan de la Mort | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Hybridoide | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ A2 6b+ A2 | ★★ Les enragés | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ A2 6b+ A2 | ★★ Les enragés | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c | Or Sujet | 280m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ La Voie des Dalles (La Voie des Dallas) | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6c | ★★ Lame Fatale | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6c | Les Fils de l'Haltere et du Pan | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
5c+ A1 5c+ A1 | ★★★ E Pericoloso Sporgersi | 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
7b | ★★★ Ticket Danger | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c A1 6c+ | ★★★ Les Barjots | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6c | ★★ Gueule d'Amour | 100m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ | Pilier gauche du fauteuil | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6c | Dièdre de l'oursinade | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Tandem pour une évidence | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Di 30. Aug 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ Éperon des venellois | 280m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
7a | ★★ Les Extras Terrestres | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
7a+ A0 7a+ A0 | ★ Cydonia | 160m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Mi 31. Aug 2022 | ||||
5c | ★★★ L'igloo Troglo | 230m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 25. Dez 2023 | ||||
5b+ | ★ A Moi les Vivants | 90m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Mo 2. Jun 2014 | ||||
Looks outrageous, and then all these holds appear. Different style of rock to dalle grise
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6c | ★★ L'Arabe Souriant | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 2. Jun 2014 | |||||
Hard to be sure what's what with select guide. Top pitch only
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6a+ | ★★ L'Arabe Dement | 80m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 2. Jun 2014 | ||||
Amazing holds appear, up a coralline wall
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6a | ★ L'Arabe en Decomposition | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Mo 2. Jun 2014 | |||||
Think this was up a polished flake, but bolts a ll over the place. Felt a fair bit harder than 6a.
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6a+ | ★ Unnamed right of corner | 15m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Mo 2. Jun 2014 | ||||
Not as good as the others, and a fairly hard crux through overlap.
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6a+ | ★★ Arete du Belvedere | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 4. Jun 2014 | ||||
Led alt pitches with dave. Scored crux. Passed nice French guide who came in above first 3 pitches. Descent required down climbing and 3 abseils and took almost as long as 7 pitch ascent in the rain.
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6a | ★★★ La Demande | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 5. Jun 2014 | ||||
Alt pitches with Dave until pitch 8 when my brain was fried by ths sun which was a good excuse to make him lead the chimneys. Every move about old school 6a. Sustained gold. Linked 2 and 3 and 12 and 13. Hitching rules for the return to base!
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6b+ | ★ Parle à mon Hulk — 2 Versuche - mit Fabian Michel | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Mo 25. Sep 2023 | |||||
Bouldery moves at the second bolt, afterwards cool crimps.
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6a+ | ★★★ Le feu au Hulk sortie G - mit Fabian Michel | 22m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 25. Sep 2023 | ||||
Great climbing from the start to the end. Slabby finish on slopers and spicy bolting before the anchor.
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6a+ |
★★★ Les Deux Doigts dans le Nez
- mit
Fabian Michel
1
6a+
Vorstieg durch
Fabian Michel
Starts with a pretty technical slab. Challenging for the whole pitch.
2
6a+
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Pretty cool traverse to the right. Afterwards steep face climbing in jugs (if you find them).
3
6a+
Vorstieg durch
Fabian Michel
Starts with a steep dihedral, some good holds and underclings. The crux is a tricky traverse to the right.
4
6a+
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Two Crux sequences. One at the start and one at the end before the tree. Vertical face climbing on pockets and crimps.
5
6a+
Vorstieg durch
Fabian Michel
Starts with a traverse to reach the huge dihedral to the right. Traverse is easy, steep dihedral offers good holds and at the end there's a vertical section with a short Crux. | 170m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 26. Sep 2023 | ||||
Beautiful route with a adventurous approach traversing the base of the cliff. Very versatile in style.
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6b+ |
★★ Liberte Surveillee
- mit
Dirk
1
5c
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Easy start with two harder moves. Traverse to the right on the small ledge (not on the first big ledge).
2
6a+
Vorstieg durch
Dirk
Starts easy in the dihedral with huge jugs. The crux is getting around the corner at about 2/3rd of the pitch. Going to left a bit below the bolt seems to be easier.
3
6b
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Very pretty and steep dihedral with a crack they offers good holds. Always enjoyable climbing. The pitch would be 6a if there wasn't the slabby traverse to the right. Needed to grab one draw to clip, otherwise climbed free.
4
6b+
Vorstieg durch
Dirk
Very cool pitch. One juggy traverse to the left with poor feet and a easier traverse to the right afterwards. Steep finish on pockets.
5
6a+
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Steep start on pockets, then again a traverse to reach the three water groves. A bit tricky to stand up into the grooves and then easier to the top. | 130m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 28. Sep 2023 | ||||
Nice route, which is in the shade until afternoon. Cool climbing and versatile, but a bit too many traverses.
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6b+ leicht |
★★★ Petra Aliena
- mit
Dirk
1
6b
30
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Steep start into the route. Some tricky moves to get through some sections. For me this was the hardest pitch of the route, maybe because it was the warmup.
2
5c
15
Vorstieg durch
Dirk
Very easy traverse.
3
6b
30
Vorstieg durch
ToxicD
Technical and vertical wall. Never super easy and blender super hard. Always time to rest in between. Awesome pitch.
4
6b
40
Vorstieg durch
Dirk
Long pitch, starts with a juggy traverse to the left and crosses the wall to the right. A short slabby section with some crimps are the crux of this pitch. The traverse before the anchor is pretty easy if you find all holds.
6
6b+
30
Vorstieg durch
Dirk
Steep start, afterwards a traverse to the left. Don't traverse to early. Pretty cool pitch and there's almost everywhere a jug to rest. Soft for 6b+. | 170m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 29. Sep 2023 | ||||
Every pitch is pretty cool. Mostly steep climbing with very good hand and footholds. All in all relatively soft for the grade, compared to other routes on the other side of the gorge.
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6a | Heavy Metal | Les Gorges du Verdon | Fr 4. Mai 2007 | ||||||
heady....bugger the bolts, if you're small, go through the hole!
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6b+ | ★★★ A Tout Coeur | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | So 6. Mai 2007 | |||||
P5 then onto Passion D'amour
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6a | ★★★ La Demande | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Sa 28. Apr 2007 | ||||
Scary as hell! Book said fully equipped, glad we took a few nuts and slings too...
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3c | Force 4 | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore
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5a | Tulipes Timides | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
pissed off a german by using his rope!
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4a+ | Zoulou Man | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore
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5a | Dindon Dina Dit-On... | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
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5c+ | ★ Gavade | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
Easy nice route. No glue ons!
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6a+ | Asia | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
Ridiculous glue on hold make the crux easier
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5b | Big Bosse | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore
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3c+ | Un Poireau Autour du Cou | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore. outdoor gym. good for kids under 5
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5c+ | Djett' Djett' Djett' | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
overhang with dick like holds glued on
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3c | ABC... | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore
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4a | On Surveille les Glands | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore. outdoor gym. good for kids under 5
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5b+ | M.Bidouillage | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
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4c+ | Coeur de Roche | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
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6a | Docteur Es-Taille | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
hardish. riduicluous glue ons!
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3c | Ca Ralentit | Les Gorges du Verdon | Vergiss es | Di 2. Okt 2007 | |||||
chips galore. outdoor gym. good for kids under 5
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6a+ 6a | ★★★ La dulf du fou | 40m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | So 22. Okt 2017 | ||||
Polished in places, seems harder than 6a+
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7a | ★★★ Le miroir du fou | 45m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | So 22. Okt 2017 | ||||
Thin tricky traverse, top section is amazing. 7a in guide.
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6a+ | ★★★ Les deux doigts dans le nez (Les Duex Doights Dans Let Nez) - mit Tom Walker | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 24. Okt 2017 | ||||
Lead every pitch and fell at the tricky start on pitch 1 and again on the crux on pitch 4. Pitch 5 is the money pitch. Hard for the grade.
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6b+ | ★★★ A Tout Coeur - mit Tom Walker | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 30. Nov 2017 | ||||
Amazing route, what a way to spend a birthday! Lead every pitch clean including running the last 2 together (not recommended). 6b+ is hard but has great moves. Some holds are slightly polished (by my inexperienced Aussie standards, maybe by Verdon standards its not polished at all) but this doesn't detract from the experience at all, there was no slips so it was fine.
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6a | ★★★ Wide is love | 40m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 18. Aug 1989 | ||||
mega nice
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Afin que Nul ne Meure | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 21. Aug 1989 | ||||
nice
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6a+ | ★★ L'Arabe Dément | 80m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 18. Aug 1989 | ||||
nice
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6c 6c+ | ★★★ Dingomaniaque | 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 23. Mai 1994 | ||||
Last pitch is mega... good for pictures
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6b+ |
★★★ Catalunya Mon Amour
1
6b+
50m
2
5c
40m
3
6a
35m
4
6b+
50m
| 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Do 23. Jun 2022 | ||||
Went out with a local guide Philippe. Super short approach, 5min drive from La Palud and 2 min walk from the lookout. Recent route, bolted in 2015 in between some classics. First pitch was mega long, pumped out near the end and rested before the finish. Phillipe shouted out his phone was ringing as he seconded up. I took the rope in while he answered questions in a radio interview about the verdon! Rain started to pick up near the end of the climb. Couldn't pull the crux move on the last pitch on first go, rested and the wall became soaked. Luckily, friends who had just topped out threw down a top rope and helped me through the last 10m in the pouring rain. Safe to say, Phillipe was freezing down at the belay.
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7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe - mit Paul Frothy Thomson | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 27. Nov 2017 | ||||
Awesome. Such great adventure-sport climbing. Led clean P1, P3, P4, and had mixed success following clean on the other pitches. P5 and P8 were sandbagged in my opinion. It was so cold but was worth it.
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7b+ | ★★★ Pichenibule | 400m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 6. Sep 2003 | ||||
AWESOME
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8a+ | ★★★ Dame Cookie - mit Jon Shen | 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 22. Mai 2021 | ||||
First 8a+ multi-pitch! One day ascent.
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8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 28. Mai 2021 | ||||
Two days. 5 tries. One of the most amazing tufa lines! 60m battle against pumped forearms
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8b | ★★★ Hulkosaure | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | So 30. Mai 2021 | ||||
2nd Go. mono-tufa king line. full koala mode.
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7c 8a | L’esthète de lard | Les Gorges du Verdon | Do 3. Jun 2021 | ||||||
Right exit
|
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8b+ ~8a | Kiss Kiss Gang Bang | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mo 14. Aug 2023 | ||||||
First pitch
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8c | Bohemian Symphony Extension | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mo 27. Jul 2020 | ||||||
First FA of the season on the Ramirole 🤙. It was an "end of day" project : Bohemian symphony extension. It could be around 8c. I was close to do my warm up project too, falling on the last move... Next one
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6a+ | ★★ Pas de Prelude Pour Herve | 100m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 24. Apr 2024 | ||||
Did 6b version of L4, very cool ! every day is new surprise while learning about Verdon rock. At L1 I felt like I was surfing waves made out of rock, and the movement felt so natural (as opposed to L5 which kicked my butt with the layback). Impressive versatile climbing throughout.
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5c | ★★ Chlorochose - mit Hanalie | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 9. Sep 2016 | ||||
Alternated leads with Hanalie. Did 1,3,5 and 7th pitches. Awesome climb, amazing views. Each of the pitches are around 5b/5c.
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6a | ★★ El Gringo Loco - mit Hanalie | 90m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 9. Sep 2016 | ||||
Lead climbs the second and third pitches (both 6a) after seconding the first pitch (5c) with Jarrah. Tricky move in the traverse on second pitch.
Lots of fun!
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7a | ★★★ Colocaïne - mit Antoine Chandonnet | Les Gorges du Verdon | Do 11. Apr 2024 | ||||||
Presque enchainee, un brise-coeur!
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6c |
★★ Lame Fatale
- mit
Antoine Chandonnet
3
6b
4
6a+
Accidental link up | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mo 15. Apr 2024 | |||||
Epic route! The true verdon experience! Runouts galore, no fall zones, tricky route finding, and an absolutely mega classic sustained crux pitch on a striking arete. Overall, the route climbed very similarly to a trad line, with the most common sequences being delicate laybacks on technical smeary feet. Probably the best sport multi I've ever done!
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5c | ★★ Les Dalles Grises | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Durchschnitt | Fr 1. Aug 1980 | ||||
It's basically a rap route.
|
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5c | ★ Crag le Sept - mit Siar Sedig | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Di 6. Aug 2019 | |||||
First DWS ever
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4 | ★★ l'oblique - mit Siar Sedig | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 6. Aug 2019 | |||||
You can go until 3th bush.
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6a | ★★★ La Demande | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | 1985 | ||||
crack & chimney climbing
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6b | ★★ Tronce de Conque - mit Minke | 15m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 7. Sep 2019 | ||||
Tried on top rope to discover 6b slab in Verdon
|
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5c | ★ Ii - mit Minke | 15m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Gut | Fr 6. Sep 2019 | ||||
A couple of hard and committing moves
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