Routen in Sarner Scharte für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

R2/II Einstieg über die ochar sepp Nach der 3 seillänge links gerade hinauf. Gut ersichtlich Die schwierigeren Seollängen sind mit Bohrhacken gut abgesichert. Die leichten Seillängen haben alpinen Charakter mit guten Absicherungsmöglichkeiten Rückzug im notfall über die route möglich. Ausqueren zur Holznerkante immer möglich Standplätze sind mit Bohrhacken und mobilen sicherungsmittel Expresschlingen 8 Halbseil 60 10 expr.

Engelskante is rightly one of the most famous tours of the Sarner Scharte - if you look up from the meadows below the reason for name is clear. The three pitches follow the the arete in the middle are wonderfully exposed and wonderful to climb.

If you wish to enjoy the treats of the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle) on the southern summit, please bring more schnapps to leave. The route is wonderfully airy in partly demanding friction climbing.

Thanks to the bolts added by Ulrich Messner in the 1990s, it is now possible to climb directly up the arete, although Holzer and Steinkötter probably followed a thin crack a little to the right of the arete. Originally rated V, it is now agreed to be a solid grade VI.

1. [45 m, III, 1 bolt]: Start a little to the right above the lowest point of the ridge/arete. Follow the ridge and make an anchor at the second bolt.

2. [45 m, III, 1 bolt]: Continue up the ridge to a small ledge. Single bolt anchor.

3. [35 m, II, 1 bolt]: Go to the left of the small wall, and continue to across to the right to the large ledge, across the slippery grass to the base of the supa dupa arete. The anchor is a little to the right of the arete in a small cave (glue-in piton).

4. [45 m, V, VI, 6 bolts, 4 pitons]: Money pitch #1; exposed and morally demanding. Small nuts and cams useful. 3-bolt anchor on the famous bench on the wall.

5. [45 m, VI, IV +, 6 bolts, 3 pitons]: Money pitch #2; Continue up the arete, then airily traverse over the Angel's Wing (the overhang) to the left and continue up to the anchor. 3-bolt anchor is after the old piton anchor.

6. [25 m, IV-, 1 BH, 2 NH]: Continue up the arete to the glue-in piton.

7. [40 m, II]: Traverse over loose blocks to the right to a glue-in bolt at the base of the next wall.

8. [50 m, III, 1 bra]: Easy climbing along the sometimes brittle arete to the next ledge, with a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively, you can bypass the entire wall to the left (II).

9. [30 m, III]: Continue up the ridge and follow the last short vertical section to the end of the route, 2 bolt anchor. Arrive at the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle).

https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/alpinklettern/suedtirols-sueden/sarner-scharte-zur-erinnerung-an-ochar-sepp-aka-scoiattolo-/37819502/#dmdtab=oax-tab1