Routen als traditionell in Lukenya

Layback up the crack, then up to roof. Traverse right, then up bulging crack to ledge. Climb lichen bulge above.

Start on boulder to the right-hand end of this crag. Step onto the face and follow the traverse line to the tree. Easy rock above.

The South face of Edinburgh Castle. Start from the upright flake at foot of the slab.

1. 27m. Climb to centre of face until shortly before the slab steepens to a wall. Make ascending traverse left to steeply sloping ledge below wall and move left to tree belay.

2. 38m. Move right from tree onto ledge. After some 10' climb steep wall and rising traverse right into 'pulpit'. Protection pegs in place (as of 1973 TODO check this). From 'pulpit' climb slab above by ascending left wall, move slightly right and up to horizontal crack. With hands in this, traverse left to easier climbing and prominent tree. Up wall to tree and then either ascend wall direct or follow diagonal crack to right to summit.

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

To the right of 'Committee Wall' there is a corner with a wide crack. 5m to the right of this is another crack.

1. 20m. Up this with peg runner at 5m. Continue up to easier ground. Follow crack, which widens, then make hard move up to 'Committee Wall' traverse.

2. 30m. From the obvious flake to left of 'keyhole' move up left to bolt in place below overhang. With aid from a sling over lip and easy climbing above.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

Girdle traverse of Edinburgh Castle.

1. 15m. Climb Graceful Chimney to tree.

2. 18m. From tree move horizontally left with increasing difficulty until with the use of aid good holds beneath the 'keyhole' are reached.

3. 18m. Descend pitch 2 of Committee Wall to flake and belay.

4. 30m. Ascend 3m above flake, move left and across steep slabs to pegs on Gateway. Climb pitch 2 of Gateway to tree belay.

5. 20m. Descend left to grassy ledges until vertical crack is reached. Ascend this to top.

The obvious chimney to the right of Edinburgh Castle with a large tree in its lower part.

1. 15m. Up chimney, move right past chockstone to belay at tree.

2. 20m. Move left-handed through bushes and climb blocks 6m to foot of groove, ascend 15m to top.

Start in right hand chimney. Climb chimney as far as first tree and move right on slab to belay.

Start from belay at top of Graceless Chimney, and walk left 6m to base of dark crack. Ascend this.

Alternate HS start: Nice 15 m pitch of crack climbing between Graceful and Graceless Chimney. Second pitch the same.

To right of open, rough, bush-filled gully, a small slab underneath a large boulder. Start to left of pointed rock lying against foot of slab.

1. 15m. Climb to belay on platform.

2. 10m. Move 6m right along ledge to awkward chimney leading to top. Alternate start. 15m. (Diff). Start 6m to right where there is a grassy ledge a few feet up. As for (2) to finish.

Immediately to the right of Diamond Slab is a steep wall. Start in centre of wall.

1. 12m. Climb to obvious flake and then right handed to platform and flake belay.

2. 6m. Ascend wall behind belay to platform then take small crack up wall on left to finish.

Three good practice routes for beginners.

On left of prominent crack in face. Mantleshelf onto ledge, then straight up.

Climb first prominent bulge to right of central crack.

Climb second bulge on face 4m to right of Wobble. Easy start, top harder.

Start at the far left-hand end of the crag facing the gully on rising ground. Step right then up the arete.

5m left of Leaper, behind tree. Slightly right and straight up a slight depression.

Start about halfway along the face where a sharp pointed flake stands away from the face. From the tip of the flake step onto the face and directly up to the left of a shallow ‘V’ groove.

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

1. 15m. Up crack to traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit. The second pitch is very photogenic!

At the right hand end of the face at a flat boulder. High step to gain the edge of the undercut wall, traverse left and up to belay at foot of the chimney. Finish as for Velindra or via chimneys.

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

In the general area to the left of El Duende, clip First bolt of El Duende, move left and over small bulge and up to overhang. Straight through overhang to top. The opener has granted permission for a bolt near the bottom to allow climbers to start left and independent of El Duende.

This route is hard to beat Sustained, stylish moves in a superb position guarantee it a place at the top of the best there is at Lukenia. It climbs the orange wait of the obvious prow on the right of Window Buttress. Start 6m right of Dream Twister at a corner crack which is easily climbed for 3m to a small ledge on the right. Make the most of this - it is the last rest on the climb. Two small wires (#2 and #3 RP's), can be rigged here to protect the tricky move up to the first bolt. The route veers rightwards below the first bolt then up to the obvious bulging grey wall which is the crux of the route (bolt on right). Above the grey wall, the climb continues with difficulties to the third bolt. Steep, delicate climbing leads directly above to the top.

This exciting route takes the steep face between El Duende and Rear Window, beginning on the corner buttress. Start up right of obvious flake to 15 feet, traverse right onto face below overhang. Up right to obvious ledge/foothold, step left and move up to below overhang: then through overhang up to meet jugs on top (natural pro).

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

Start about 3m left of corner. Straight up slab on small holds to overhang at 12m. Pull over ledge and easily to top.

On the right-hand side of cave is an obvious crack deep in a recess. Climb crack for 4m and hand-traverse to left under overhang. Pull up onto ledge at base of gully, step back onto face above overhang and up to top.

To the right of Comparing Notes is a corner. Start on right-hand side of corner at hole at about 1m. Ascend and slant left around corner, then straight up to top.

The prominent crack in the east side of the buttress seen clearly from the road.

Start at crack in north side of crag. Up crack to prominent notch. Either take route into buttress or move left-handed to reach outside of buttress and over easy rock to top.

Start just below and to left of corner where slab sweeps down. Climb prominent flake to small tree at 5m and move slightly right-handed to come out on top.

Start 12m to right of corner at point of slab on small block. From this climb up slab to overhang, climb this direct.

7m right of small block mentioned in Black Magic is a small crack with a quartz streak in it. Start 1m to the right of this and ascend blackest part of bulge above to underside of slight overhang. Traverse beneath overhang right-handed to finish. A very pleasant, steep climb.

Prominent crack and flake leads to shallow scoop which is crossed to right. From there directly to top.

The bush-filled chimney directly behind the small tree.

Most obvious deep chimney in middle of face. Back up and awkward move leads to left hand wall which is ascended to small overhang at top; this is taken direct.

Between Black Chimney and the fig tree a simple route leads directly to the top.

Thin start 3m right of fig tree. Move right-handed clear of tree to finish. A worthwhile route requiring good balance.

Start at very bottom of slab, 3m to left of quartz inset. Climb leads up to grassy gangway from which an obvious route follows series of flakes up face, leading to thorn tree on skyline.

From the quartz inset mentioned in Black Treacle mantleshelf onto grassy ledge. Straight up from small bush on right via shallow scoop to top.

Start at right hand point of overhang. Tricky move leads to ledge above overhang. From there climb continues to groove above, finishing out over left wall of groove.

Start 1.5m to right of Black Groove start. Up waterchute line and black streak of wall above to finish.

An exposed traverse with little protection. Start up Black Steps until at about three-quarter height a thin quartz fault leads rightwards horizontally across the face. Follow this using the thorn tree of Black Treacle as a belay

Start in the middle of left-hand buttress of crag at a crack surmounted by a double overhang and pointed boulder on skyline. Follow crack to overhang, pull up and move to final boulder which is taken direct.

A straight line between Cleopatra and Ammon, turning the overhang on the right and keeping out of the trees.

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

Start just to the left of Osiris and aim for a small bush on the skyline directly above.

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

To the right of Isis is a deep crack starting some 2.5m up. A hard start just to the left, then straight up.

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. Climb to platform and then the difficult-looking wall behind to ledge for belay. Move right along ledge and climb short, strenuous crack on corner. Over boulder to finish on summit.

Start below right hand end of platform, where a fig tree affords an easy route to the platform. Ascend corner on left of gully to ledge and belay. Move left along ledge to small tree beside which an easy route will be found leading to the top. An alternative route to the platform can be made (9m, VS). Start directly below the second pitch on a wall with small holds. Ascend 3m, traverse 3m left, continue left-handed to good holds on the corner. (A. Owen; 1961)

Start as for Vulture's Nest to platform. Climb onto corner on right. Awkward step on point of corner leads to easy rock and direct to top.

Lies between Ptolemy and Sweet Fanny Adams on the buttress just to the left of the chimney. Climb to the pigeon-hole where an awkward move leads to a ledge at 7.5m. From ledge climb directly up or cross chimney to block on right and then up.

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

The climb goes up the chimney immediately to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams. Back up the chimney facing right for 9m when a runner may be placed in the crack. Continue direct up the crack until the ledge can be reached. Traverse right 4.5m and ascend wall above on small holds.

Start 7.5m to the right of Sphynx on the corner. Up fault as far as possible then traverse right to corner. Climb direct to hole. From here onto ledge immediately above and take final pitch above. Follow fault for 4.5m then traverse and up corner to top.

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

Start 2m left of Jericho Wall. Climb directly to horizontal crack above the start. Finger traverse right until the pigeon hole is reached. Move left-handed across slab to finish. Has received few repeats over recent years, hence still retaining the old XS grade. Has a reputation for being quite thin and unprotected, around 6b French difficulty - feedback on a modern grade update welcome!

Start well up left-hand gully from point of small boulder below a tiny fig tree in a pigeon hole on the wall at 4.5m. Step on to wall and climb to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right and mantleshelf onto small ledge. At right hand edge climb groove to platform and top. Abseil off the tree just below the top.

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

Climb slab on right in cave to platform below overhang. At point of cave and overhang is a steep shelf leading diagonally left and up. Hand traverse along this and into the crack then onto the left face. From here easier rock leads to finish on wide ledge with belay. Probably one or two grades harder if below six feet, as the opening move will require a dynamic latch onto the rail, swinging out over a sizeable drop down the boulder. Take care for the follower as well - too much slack and a fall on the rail at the start would mean hitting the ground, not enough will pull the climber off the wall.

Start 9m to the right of the cave, where there is a semi-detached piece of rock. Step from slab to point of semi-detached piece of rock. Traverse left and ascend steep wall directly to ledge with belay. Finish directly up groove behind belay. An alternative finish may be made by moving right from the belay ledge, up a small wall and over final boulder.

Start on dark rock 6m to the left of lichenuous slab, a groove with quartz at the foot. Follow groove to finish.

Lies between South Climb and Long Layback. Start in centre of slab and climb direct for 6m then slightly right to top.

Scramble up crescent shaped gully to tree belay. Using lip of crack for layback, climb to end of crack and final belay.

Start on right at point of gully. Simple traverse right leads behind small tree. Climb up moving right then left to the top.

Start at base of face below apex of groove 2.5m' to right of tree at ground level. Climb left to overhang at easiest point, surmount this and move up to reasonable rock that leads to finish.

Start at point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground. Move right-handed to platform, ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish in bushy trees. Abseil from here Two alternate starts may be made: Superdirect and Supersuperdirect.

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Start on corner of buttress to right of normal start (point of slab directly below tree on overhang, a pigeonhole 1m above ground). Leads to platform. Finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

Alternate start to Archway Direct. Further round corner to right at narrow crack with fig tree. Climb crack in entirety, including section above ledge. Rejoin route at ledge and finish as for Archway Direct: ascend steep wall behind to ledge. Climb wall and slab directly behind to finish.

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

Start as for Tramlines. Step across to ledge. The face is taken direct avoiding the vegetated crack on the left.

Start at foot of large fig tree in gully. Layback to top of flake on right. Traverse left a few feet to ledge at foot of upper gully. From here thin twin cracks up right- hand corner of gully take route out onto face on right which is then climbed direct.

Start just right of big fig tree on boulder below steep slab. Climb this for a few unprotected moves to a ledge at 9m below small overhang. Bolt below overhang. Move up wall left of bolt (crux), up overhang and easier wall above to finish.

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

It has been said that one member of the Mountain Club makes the journey to Lukenia once a fortnight solely to do battle with this little beauty, If he succeeds on one safari, the only certainty is that it will defeat him on his next Originally climbed by traversing in from the Junction ledge on the left, parties in recent years have preferred a more direct approach. Start 3m left of Bandana at a "pigeon-hole" about a meter off the ground. Climb wall by "pigeon-hole" and step left at 3m to diagonal crack rising rightwards. Move right and over the overlap at 5m, directly above start. Climb face above moving slightly right to ledge. Mantle shelf up leftwards to ledge below black streak, and climb delicately up slab (crux), on right of bolt to top. Original route was to climb up to shallow cave and the move up rightwards.

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

About 8m to the right of Boiler Plate there is a steep vegetated crack. Climb through tree then up crack to steep bulge (crux), continue up grass to top.

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

The obvious cleft with remains of a tree in its depths.

The steep corner above the small cave 8m right of ‘Roman Candle’. Peg for protection in place.

The overhanging crack above the cave. Jammed nuts to start, one peg in place.

On left-hand nose. Climb wall direct and move right below boulder to finish.

Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish.

Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

Start in gully left of slab at foot of grey tree root. Climb to platform, move up right-handed to poor stance and belay at 35'. Traverse left across face to good holds and ascend wall until under point of boulder on left. Pull up on jugs to finish.

Start at the base of groove behind bush between Coffin and point of slab. Ascend groove, move out right to grassy ledge, move to left edge of sand-coloured slab. Ascending traverse right across slab, move right-hand over point of corner to easier rock and top. An alternative finish (Severe) may be followed from the grassy ledge by ascending to vertical crack and moving right in an ascending traverse. Cross onto Tombstone and to the bulge directly below the fig tree. Finish above.