Routen in Kenia

I guess technically this is a First Ascent? Climb the loose dirty chimney to the right of Wazimu. No protection. 45 feet.

Mantle up to the first bolt. Tricky climbing leads to the second bolt as the terrain eases off to finish.

Enjoyable route on the left-hand end of the cliff. Start on the slab below an obvious crack. Go up the slab and onto the ledge above the crack. From here don't follow the crack on easier ground to the right, but go straight up via a flake which offers a perfect jug, then finish left of the cactus forest above to the still-living (as at 2021) fig tree belay above.

Continuous thoughtful climbing on a short face to a two-bolt anchor.

Start from Two Tarn Hut. Ascend the Tyndall Glacier to the foot of a steep snow-slope rising up rightwards between the two hanging glaciers, Forel (left) and Heim (right). Then climb directly up the snow/ice-field for about 250 m, making for a rib on the upper part of the face which is not too evident. Most parties pass to the right of it. Climb up to the right to a cave (bivouac site), and either make a long traverse left to the gully (IV inf.) which leads up to the summit; or climb up the rock (V) trending right to the South-West Ridge. The first three-quarters of the route used to require modern ice gear, but at time of writing (2023) the route probably needs reassessing as most glaciers have severely receded.

Time: 10 hours.

To the right of Msitu. Take the slab up to the overhang above. Climb straight over this on steep but good holds. From here keep to the right of the big crack and go as directly as you can up to the dead (as at 2021) fig tree above, finding holds slightly more on the left for the final bulge. Slightly thin on pro in the middle section, but always on good holds and rock, and some gear can be found, with easy escapes possible.

The thin crack opposite the bolted routes - almost onsighted when first found, only for a dodgy stomach to scupper the attempt halfway up. Natural pro.

Season: Probably best during June to October. The season is critical as the foot of the couloir is rarely linked to the Tyndall Glacier. Standard: VI. The first ascent party felt the first two pitches warranted Scottish V. Time: 9 hours climbing time.

A bivouac was spent in bergschrund. This couloir, which might be better described as an icicle, lies to the left of The Untravelled World Route, and joins the Tyndall Glacier with the extreme left side of the Forel Glacier. The first two pitches are very steep. The ice then becomes easier angled and in five more pitches provides an exit right onto the main Forel. The bergschrund bivouac cave of The Untravelled World is then reached, and this route is followed to the summit.

The route follows the obvious crack from the ground to its end for 55 metres.

From the top of the crack a pitch of easy, unprotected slab climbing leads to the summit.

This is a sustained and serious climb (not just for the lead climber) and caution should be taken with loose rock.

Protection: there are two bolts on the second pitch, but the main protection is with natural gear. At least one 6.5 cam or similar should be carried to avoid extreme run-outs.

A right leaning groove about five metres to the right of In Vein.

Not the jam crack that we expected, but another off-width/ layback climbing.

Climb the groove above the first bulge, then aid gently through the roof for about three metres.

Continue free to the top. Large gear in the form of 5, 6, 6.5 cams are essential, as little else is available. From the ground climb for 35 metres to bolt anchor, then up to summit as per In Vein.

Direct route up the NE Face via the Gray Pillar.

15 hours with one bivouac (ED(inf), HVS).

See: https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1977_files/AJ%201977%20235-236%20Connor%20Africa.pdf

Sit start with an awkward left hand gaston edge and a shallow right hand pinch. Use bad feet to make a big reach up and left to a sloping edge. From there climb the arete and top out. The sit is the most natural start, but you can stand start on the same holds in a lieback with a high foot for a V5, or start one move in at the sloping edge for a V3. This problem is on the obvious steep blunt arete on the left of the two adjacent boulders when facing them from the trailhead

Harder than it looks. Stand start matching the obvious half-pad edge on the clean overhanging face (just across and a few feet from Blood Milk Breakfast). Delicately establish on the wall and make a desperate move to the lip. Finish with a sloping mantle

Around the corner on the same boulder as Six Inch Punch. Stand start matched on the sloping rail with a heelhook. Make a move to a good pocket and top out.

Spot a flake 10 m up and 15 m right of ‘Tim starter’. Climb towards it. At 7 m, disturb a massive bees nest and get chased off the crag by a squadron of angry insects, losing a rope in the process. Descent: rapid.

Lovely little route up the main face overlooking the area. Slightly unprotected start on good holds to a horizontal crack which will take a small nut, then up to a big crack which slants up diagonally to the right. Follow this with good holds and gear and finish straight up from where the crack ends, on good holds but no gear for the last few metres.

Time: Half a day. An obvious fully leads to the North-East Ridge. Then rope down to another gully which leads to the summit. A much better (if harder) variation to this route is to follow the first gully until the wall steepens. Go up and traverse left, then follow cracks up to a tat belay. Fun, maybe Severe climbing with a well-protected crux. From belay go up until te ridge, then follow right to top. Descent is back down the same route on tat anchors. Check this and add your own tat. 3 proper pitches, the initial gully can easily be scrambled or simul-climbed.

The leftmost of the three rock formations.

1. Work up a delightfully easy steep slab wandering through large huecos to a low-angle slab to reach a two-bolt anchor. 20 meters.

2. Continue up the slab as it gains in angle and difficult before heading left to a second two-bolt anchor. 24 meters.

(Shadrock Swagger actually has a good steeper first pitch option coming from the right. Climb the first pitch the rappel off to the right and bolt something there!)

The slab between the two larger slabs in this area actually has an anchor and no protection bolts. The climbing on this slab is SUPER featured and cool and there is room for two or three different routes that could all finish on this existing anchor.

This is the obvious chimney at the extreme left end of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the chimney until a move out right can be made, and go up past a small tree. Move up the crack above, stepping left across wall and up to top.

Historic route number: 16

Pitch 1

Blocky start moving left towards sheer face.

Make fun moves up rail on steep wall using crack on right side until you move over top to platform.

Terrifying on FA thanks to wobbling death bloc which has now been kindly removed by second.

Pitch 2

Make relatively easy moves up, trending left using crack on right for gear.

Move over top into “The Dance Arena” and belay at a convenient spot to your liking.

Pitch 3

An unlikely route takes you left over some challenging smooth slabby climbing where you need to earn you gear. Could be described as a tad run out.

Trend left and then move up to below overhang and traverse right on large ledge. We would advise moving around first corner to larger belay area to set up better for pitch 4.

Pitch 4

Straight up from belay with multiple options available depending on your preference for moisture.

Continue straight through even wetter section until you come over ledge to 4th class section which takes you to the top. Options to belay at top of crux or higher up.

Start 1m to left of left-hand black streak. Follow slight groove and move out left-handed at steepest point. Belay to fig tree in grassy rake.

First climbed in a downpour sporting a beautiful rainbow over the Athi Plains. lt lies on the buttress to the right of Nemesis Crag; a long, very yellow cliff that gets gradually steeper from left to right. Start the climb on the left hand side where a slab leads up to a long, deep horizontal crack. Follow the crack line right for a few metres until you are underneath a fig tree. Then make a move up out the crack onto the face and onto the top (natural pro).

The large crack turns into an overhanging hand crack that ends at two bolts.

Start 9 m left of 'Exterminator'.

1. 12 m Move up wall 5 m then traverse left to crack on right side of prominent column. Ascend crack to good ledge right of column.

2. 15 m Move right 3 m to thin crack then follow this to bulge. Climb over bulge (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut) to good belay ledge on right.

3. 18 m Climb thin crack directly above belay on aid nuts and two pegs. The thin crack ends in a groove which is climbed free to belay. (This is the same belay as the one at the end of Pitch 2 of Exterminator).

4. 18 m Follow Pitch 3 of 'Exterminator' to its belay. At this point 'Exterminator' traverses off leftwards. Instead of doing this continue up the steepening corner (1 aid nut), until a move can be made onto a ledge on the right. Move up to good belay ledge.

5. 37 m Straight above belay to obvious finish.

Seriousness: 3

An easy descent ramp.

Much better than it looks. This route climbs the groove/ corner in the middle of the bay to the right of the big buttress of the previous routes. Start directly below groove. Climb wall to start of groove, then straight up past two bolts to small roof. Pass this and climb crack above to top.

Historic route number: 68

Meandering route starting at faint corner crack towards the right of the wall.

(1) climb corner and belay at top.

(2) Do a long scramble L along grassy ledge to good tree belay near thorn bushes.

(3) Up awkward and vegetated steps with poor protection to belay at foot of detached flake.

(4) Up the flake to belay on tree below cave

(5) Climb overhang at mouth of cave and onto easier ground and either exit straight up through milky cacti or swing out left onto mantle shelf. Both options lead to a final belay on trees.

1. 37 m. Climb straight up towards a mall tree on a ledge until a diagonal line of quartz leads left to a grass ledge with several small belays.

2. 52 m (of climbing). Straight up to a steepening which has good small jugs. Follow the ramp above to the left, climb the wall above and traverse back right to bush belays which can first be marked with the 46 m of rope.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

Climb a chimney, step L and shortly move back R into chimney; go up for 3m., move L onto the arete and up to small cave stance (35m.).

The chimney to a platform at top (20m.);

the L wall can be climbed in the middle section of this pitch. Step R (thread runner) and climb a quartz band, moving R on slabbier ground to belay block on nose (20m.).

Now L across slabs, then easier rock leads to ridge (30m.).

Var: the quartz band can be climbed direct (excellent, V I-). Follow ridge across a crevice to base of the final step.

Either climb this (The Link), or scramble down a gully on L for 40m. to a tree on the R wall, from where a 45m. abseil leads into South Gully. It is also possible to abseil down the climb itself.

Access to routes 4a,b and c is from boulders at water level just R of overhanging walls. From L end of boulders climb a rib, traverse 10m. L under bulging walls (good protection) then climb a crack to the top.

Climbs the crack which splits the two sheer faces to the left of the main buttress of Nzaui.

Start as for Tramlines. Step across to ledge. The face is taken direct avoiding the vegetated crack on the left.

Start 2m to right of pigeon-hole in Boulder Two on smooth slab. Direct ascent to ledge and then to an almost-detached flake 2m above on wall. Continue direct to top. Belay 6m back on boulder.

Three good practice routes for beginners.

Start at right-hand point of dark wall with scoops above, where there is a large semi-detached flake. Climb flake, move out slightly right and directly up to finish to right of boulders.

There are various finishes to the traverse of Main Face all of which involve about 210m of climbing. Start along the grassy rake coming in from the right about two thirds of the way up Cobblestones. Cross the face to the large platform on Arthur’s Horror. About V.D. so far. There are now three finishes to the girdle [traverse]. Playtex is the first: Descend groove via tunnel to good stance below old eagle’s nest. Descend an easy crack to ledge. Swing round awkward corner to gain slabs at foot of large cave. Descend slightly along grassy ledge, then up awkward groove and over steep slabs until angle eases and progress can be made to left.

Start about 61 m right of The Gasper, at a diagonal line running from right to left to an obvious exit.

1. 21 m On a corner go up directly to reach a prominent slab slanting left. Either follow the slab to its finish, or go onto a rib on its left and then rejoin the top of the slab where there is a fine pinnacle belay.

2. 31 m Now trend diagonally left on the easiest line and take the weakness line to the top.

This climb is on the more broken right side of the bay of the previous two climbs. The technical difficulties are in the first 15 m. Start just left of a tree.

1. 28 m Climb the slab and cracks a few feet left of the tree until one can start a long easy traverse right (just below the top of the tree), to a wide curving crack, Follow this to a good thread belay.

2. 18 m Mantleshelf onto the chock, move right and mantleshelf again. Move left go the start of a rampline pulling over a bulge to a belay.

3. 28 m Follow the rampline right with a short wall to finish on a grass ramp.

start an above, move left to narrow buttress

Great route with spicy bits. The climb takes the wide crack to the right of Death-Proof, then shares a pitch and belay with Devil Drives and finishes up to the left.

1. This pitch follows the wide/fist crack. You can start with few moves on the thin crack just to the right of the wide crack. Climb over the bulge and into the alcove. Either belay here or combine pitch 1 and 2.

2. Take a step left from the alcove onto the arrete (you're now above Death-Proof) then straight up to below the small overhangs, traverse left and up on blocks until you reach a good belay with a few cracks.

3. Go up over a few bulges for 3-4m then traverse left for 3 meters, then up a steep block and crack (this is the same pitch as Devil Drives). Belay at the rusty pegs.

4. Go up the slab for 4m, then take a left around the corner to a foot traverse, along this for about 2m which brings you onto a small block (gear), over the bulge above you and into the crack which is followed to the top. (This pitch was climbed by Emmanuel a while before but he can't recall who with)