Begehungen in Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island von Thibaut haben sport-cpr oder ascent-date

Got it #2ndGo but had the top bit dialed from having worked on ´Lock ´n’ Load’ recently. Similar difficulty to LnL, perhaps easier even.

Flash/onsight. Had to fight for it. Might be worth 2 stars when clean.

1st go today, #4thGo overall. Probably on the softer side of the grade, even though it suits my style of climbing. For my height anyway... Great movement and well bolted. Highly recommended, especially for climbers looking to break that grade barrier at TP as more accessible than Giarda and Strong Men, IMO.

Feels impossible until you find the micro beta for the feet. Waipapa-style, open book stemming test piece. Great movement and bolting. Suits my style. #3rdGo

Balancy crux just after the 3rd bolt. Not a bad route but plenty of better climbs around.

Amazing route. Should be on everyone’s radar as a benchmark for that grade.

Repeat

Really nice climb, quite technical. A bit of cleaning on the way down.

Only one short sequence of 22ish climbing so this one is probably on the softer side of the grade…

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9 attempts over 4 sessions. Still had to fight for the send. Proudest ascent of this past year. Invested a lot of time and effort into this one, stoked to get it just before going away. 24 is a ludicrous proposition for this beast of a route.

Christmas miracle... Climbed using the same holds as FA, slightly different beta. Stayed just right of the bolts the whole way.

8 attempts over 3 sessions… psyched to finally tick this multi-year proj. Highly enjoyable from start to finish, would be a 3-star route at most crags.

Sunset send! Great crux sequence through the bulge. #3rdGo

Pretty soft for the grade. Isn't V2 more like sport 21/22?

Very similar to Spurt at Waipari, smaller holds but less steep. Not a bad climb but nothing to rave about. #3rdGo

Short but quite fun. Felt soft for the grade.

So overrated... Plenty of better climbs around. 10-12 tries.

Start just right of 1st bolt and a V2ish boulder problem will get you established onto the lip. Follow the crack feature up to 4th bolt, then veer slightly right on poor holds to reach the next crack feature. Several beta options available for that crux sequence. Power endurance finish that is more challenging if you stay clear of the right arete. Around 7-8 tries.

Left at bulge. Feels more like a linkup with Sylvie's as you end up on that route's last bolt. A bit contrived, but nonetheless fun moves getting around the arête. Probably closer to 24?.. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Suits my style of climbing although it's still likely on the softer side of the grade.

You get the cruxes of both routes but a good rest in between. A bit contrived, but a nice option if you don't want to carry your trad rack to the crag. #2ndGo

Right-hand variation. Fun and fairly obvious line. Quite different and much easier compared to how the FA was done though. Nice test of your head game going up to 4th bolt. Would give it at least 2 stars if the rock quality was more reliable up top...

Probably soft if you’re able to move quickly/confidently. Felt so juggy after hours of Waipapa technical trickery.

Repeat

Bring a cam or 2 to protect the long runout between 2nd & 3rd bolts. Risk of ground fall otherwise. Clear crux on the face below roof, around 5th and 6th bolts. Awesome route.

Tricky start with crux at first bolt, followed by powerful moves above second bolt, then it gets easier to top out. I extended the anchor to add an extra point of protection. This climb deserves a third bolt as a fall towards the top is definately possible and it could be awkward.

Repeat. Clipping bolts.

It felt so much easier to try this route fresh, with the beta dialed down. Powerful, bouldery first crux above the 3rd bolt and then technical, easier second crux after the ledge. Almost deserves 2 stars.

Bouldery crux at start to get settled onto arete, then second, balancy crux to move right onto the final head wall. 2-star route but 1-star experience due to questionable bolting.

Well worth doing!

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Clear crux at first bolt involving a big deadpoint move, then power endurance finish.

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Powerful moves on sloppers and bad feet, followed by a technical, reachy move and a difficult clip above bolt. Undoubtedly V5/25 for my height. Pefect conditions today, sending this one at dusk right before nightfall. Tricky to project as you have to clip 4th bolt after fully finishing crux sequence, so you end up falling back to the start each time. Difficulty falls between 'Lust for Life' and 'Dodor'.

Balancy redpoint crux between 2nd and 3rd bolts. The rest is pretty cruisy once you've figured out where the good holds are. 24 is spot on for Ti Point.

Slightly harder than Sex Kitten but still on the softer side for Waipapa. Really cool, varied climbing. Technical first crux around 4th bolt and powerful second crux to leave the ledge. I think Rock Deluxe and Free Climb guides got the 2 climbs mixed up: Doing it at Dawn is significantly harder, grade 25+. #2ndGo

Favorite 22 in NZ so far. Fantastic climb!

Superb. Soft by Waipapa standards. #2ndGo

Heel hooks for days. Great climb. #2ndGo

I really should have onsighted this… #2ndGo

Another hidden gem that deserves to see more traffic. Bouldery climb that offers welcome respite from the usual techy Waipapa climbing. Grade is spot on. #2ndGo

6 attempts over 4 sessions. Probably on the harder side of the grade. Extending the 5th bolt helped as clipping became the stopper move. Great climb.

Possibly on the softer side of the grade and certainly easier than ´Robin’ and ´Fossil Free zone’. But 23 isn’t necessarily inconsistent with the grading of other routes at Main Wall. Cruxes at 3rd and last bolts. #2ndGo

Soft for the grade. Probably closer to 6c/+.

Grade 17ish climbing on gear up to 1st bolt, then difficult sequence of back-to-back fingery and balancy moves. Heartbreaking finish. Gear beta: red #1 in horizontal crack after traverse, yellow #2 and/or blue #3 in the main crack, grey #0.4 in pocket 2m below 1st bolt, blue #3 beneath large boulder to protect top-out.