Routen in Neuseeland

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor.

The curving crack and slab originally climbed on gear. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

Accidentally retrobolted. Can now be climbed as sport/trad.

Classic. Get onto wall in corner. Climb arete then onto steep overhanging wall on great holds. Mantle over top to anchors

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

This is a classic sharp arete, with fairly sustained climbing up nicely textured rocks. All bolts are well-spaced. Some holds are a little shiny from use.

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Hard start. Move up through a few bulges on good holds. Hard finish. Careful clipping the anchors. Originally graded 17...

Climb is located to the left of the large scoop/cave at the base of the boulder. Start left of the bolts. Traverse right to the first bolt then straight up.

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

On the other side of the arete for FC.

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retrobolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb.

1. 37m, 14 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.

2. 36m, 13 - This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.

3. 20m, 15 - Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge.

   Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.

Climb the left arete right of SFU.

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

Bouldery start through the scoop. Then easy climbing to the top.( I believe the original name was Lunar Leper, because when Wayne cleaned it bits kept falling off)

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route.

1. (17) Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way.

2. (16) Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney or use hanger, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt.

3. (19) Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

There is a double bolt chain anchor on the ledge for multipitch practice.

Climb the right arete next to LBHMF.

Up the arete and buttress to the blast hole, and then jive and reach. Don't stray onto the routes to the right and left. Use the belay station for "Dochawiyogicojalime"

Jugs galore through the roof. The pump is real pulling the lip. Hang on until you clip the anchors. All about the location with this one. Cut your feet & get the shot.

Follow the obvious crack.

Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts.

Follow the drill hole to reach the ledge at top. The anchor shared among these routes is some meters back from the edge.

Climb the arête and up over the bulge, 4 bolts and tree belay. The crux is well protected and a hidden jug will prove to be your salvation.

Ram's horns have been added. There is also a chain around the tree.

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

14m up the face to a huge undercling, then easy up to the top

Climb the cruxy face then slabby corner left of "A Carp Died for This Climb", moving right for the last move or two to the shared belay/rap anchor. 3 bolts and possible to clip the fourth on "A Carp Died for This Climb". Take care approaching and clipping the third bolt as run-out.

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

Two fixed draws and binder anchor. Super steep, great climbing on big holds.

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

Sustained climbing on a gentle overhang with good and varied holds. Retrobolted by Phil De Joux.

The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arete. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb.

Climb the corner, then move left along the big flake.

Outstanding, best as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (16) From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. (8b)

Pitch 2: (16) Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay. (7b)

A slabby wall with Titanium Rams Horns for belay, behind the large block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’.

Rams Horn Details: https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M

Start 5m right of 'The South Face' Climb the centre of the narrow face at the back of the corner to a small ledge 4m up. Step left round a small arete onto the scooped face. Climb directly up on good rock 1m to 2m right of drill hole. Continue up smooth steep face and move right to the belay.

A kind of off balance fiasco that causes tantrums and retrospective enjoyment

Climb to the left of the arete on sharp pockets.

Hard start leads to an slab to clip second bolt. Crux consists of a layback on minimal feet until a victory jug to clip from. Juggy from 3rd bolt to the anchor.

Work your way up the slab start to then test your confidence moving through the roof before a pumpy finish. A must do if you are visiting Waipari

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

Starts just left of where the track arrives.

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

Between two chimneys is a slabby wall. There are a lot of large pohutukawas at the top of this part of the cliff and this route is below the eastern most tree.

Climb easily past the first bolt to the ledge. Move right past the second bolt and up the outside of the chimney, past the third bolt and up into the wide crack.

The bolts then continue up the left face to the new rams horns anchors.

A classic for the grade. Head up the face and arete through super jugs to the anchor.

Climb up the slab in the middle of the wall using the left line of bolts after bolt 3. Big ledges and smoother sections as you go straight up, then head right at the top to the anchor.

"one of the best 15's in the North Island" - Bryce Martin.

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

Clear line following the bolts.

As good (or hard) a grade 16 as you'll find anywhere. Steep start to technical slab climbing the whole way to the top on spaced bolts.

A hard start and run out for the grade. Cams can be added between some bolts to help with the nerves, 2 x yellow and 1 x red are handy.

Starts just right of "Canadian Summer (M5)".

Mantel onto the shelf and up the stairs to the right.

Over the block, then another mantel to the belay.

On upper Tenuite.

Tackle the middle of the pinnacle through steep and sustained moves, topping out on the right. One of the most popular climbs at Kawakawa Bay.

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. The Tuataras head has since been leavered off. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

Start to the right of 'Fingertip Face' Get up onto the platform. A move on the left gets you started up the groove, then straight up to the belay.

On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up.

Starts up yellow rock.

Start below the dominant prow, move diagonally up and to the right by the easiest path to reach the anchors

Climb just right of the arete on the slab with good holds.

Ultra Classic. The falcons enjoy this section of cliff too. Climb up the ramp then get stuck into some thin moves followed by pumpy face climbing on the steep, well-featured rock.

The arête and the ‘fang’ at half height. Wet at high tide. DBC belay.

Easy pulling on quality rock. Bell signifies victory

Start 5m left of "Rock Climb This You Bastards". Climb the corner. Continue up the centre of the polished faces following the line of bolts.

Climb the prow and the final rounded face to the anchor bolts shared with "Blue's Suede Shoes".

Climb the arete. Bolts to the right of the arete.

Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.

Up the drill hole to ledge, then move right and climb the buttress.

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

Up the slabbly start to the overlap, then a crux and mantle that make this a hard onsight. It's far from over after that...

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

A cruisy multi-pitch climb with a sting in the tail

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the featured face, heading up and slightly left through the pockets. DBB. (25m)

Pitch 2: (14) A short pitch to the big dirt ledge. Walk right to access the next pitch. (10m)

Pitch 3: (17) Climb up the featured corner. Watch for some hollow blocks. (25m)

Pitch 4: (23) The sting in the tail. Commit yourself by stepping over the void before cranking through the hard overhanging moves. Take a rest in the cave before stepping left around the bulge and pulling hard to get to the top. (15m)

The first two pitches can be done in one with 15 draws.

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

Technical and interesting climbing leads to an easier top.

Easy climbing on big holds to a dynamic finish. Being tall helps.

Start to the right of Serenity. Straight up the face above past four bolts.

Up thru groove over bulge and crack to get to anchors awkwardly on facing wall.

The last arête before the gulley. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt and gain the ledge, clipping the third. Straight up to the pohutakawa belay.

Start up between 'The Whimsical West' and 'Rock Climb This You Bastards'. Follow the line of the bolts, keeping close to them for the best climbing.