Routen in Norwegen für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Starts up Ilddåpen, then traverses left after the dihedral to reach a stance below the overhanging finger crack. Follow the sustained crack on good gear to easier ground. Classic.

Link-up of start of 'Pacman' and top of 'Idol'

Same start as Tungt Møblement but quickly branches off to the right on its own line. Same anchor as Arven etter hulemannen.

This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten.

It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019.

If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1".

As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line.

Some images here:

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The "2021 Kolsås Climbing club guide book" lists this route as a "F7c+". The route is graded F8a+ (or harder). The route had its first female ascent recently in 2013, 27 years after its first ascent.

Videos: https://betabank.blogspot.com/search/label/P%C3%B8lse%20i%20lompe

Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.

Short, sharp and balancing

steep and pumpy

Steep and pumpy

New route (2021). Shares the first few bolts with Grøgern'n (keep slightly right of the bolts) but then goes straight up on own bolts to its own anchor.

Thin and sharp route that starts left of "Vriåtter" and later enters into the same finish. Very nice and probably a bit unusual sequences needed to climb the first half. This route is underrated in the local guide books. BEWARE that the sling in bolt#3 can turn into a awkward and dangerous position while passing it; I recommend to either tape it in place or use a maillon.

The routes starts to the right of "Vri åtter" and shares the same "resting-spot" in the middle of the wall. After the rest, the route turns out to the right again, for a little overhang followd by a vertical finsih with some really sharp holds. It might be a bit harder than "Normalveien", but also softer than "Engelspill".

Sit start with right hand on the high undercling and left hand on the arete

Video: https://vimeo.com/401071891

Ends up at same anchor as Steini L1.

Video: https://vimeo.com/80021673

Starts on beer smoothie and connects into Faen ta det hullet

#SD

Sustained climbing on unlikely, but superb featured granite.

Beta