Begehungen in Oceania von pete kehoe

My fav climbing the coffs area. Has it all - shouldery bouldering, reachy technical moves and a slap of glory. The ledges rob it of perfection but otherwise a brilliant route

potential to dislocate shoulder for anyone less than 6ft. did the crux but very painfully. insane move for shorties.

missed the onsight- just set poorly on the last crux hold. bummed. Went easly second shot.

Put the draws up but was too busy f**king around with other peoples topropes to give it another go... bummer. This deserves atleast 2 stars. Short but best rock on the crag. Crux bolt looks to be about 30 years old, badly rusted with a homemade hanger but the retrobolt ring below will keep you off ground if it explodes.

Awesome holds. Awesome rock. Punchy ++. Love it.

couldnt stick that last sequence. pretty tricky. needs another day.

plenty of rests. went suprisingly well.

thought i was gonna pass out from blood loss after the crux

Very bouldery crux... Looks like Possible broken hold? Harder than the grade coming out of the cave. Nice finish.

Nice climbing. Strong and bold off the ground. Didnt bring bolt plates... would be absurd to attempt to do ground up onsight anyhow...

missed the onsight messing with the crux draw. nice sequence! sent second shot.

second shot. great line.

obvious holds for onsight but terribly sandy!

great gear. standard wires and small to medium cams. plenty of 60mm extensions. single pitch.

Done previously, can't remember when. Great climb but!

great climbing. first climb of the day.

shit rock down low makes the start a bit spicy. great movement in the middle and a weird finish.

Probably a 23 since nick Witt busted off one of the crux holds last year. Great route.

Missed the onsight first shot, took completely the wrong approach from the ground. Was not prepared for this climb.... * Gear Beta spoiler alert *...

We did not like this climb, but that's a matter of taste so don't be hating Have read reports of a soaring crack with good gear I started base up with a full rack minus 3s and 4s cams.... In fact the entire route is pretty much wires only on pretty sketchy rock. Pitch one - hard stabbing with some shitty directional wires (facing the wrong way) in wet cracks. Most of the wire placements are small or micro and the rock is not really hard enough to give much confidence. All falls involve swing and scrape. Gear failure means a high likelihood of serious injury. The rock is damp and lichenous. Some shrubbery grows from the line. Missed the onsight due to gear concerns at the crux which is a leftward traverse on damp holds and feet. There are some wire options mid crux to make it safer, took a while to fire this out... Also the flake at the finish is completely detached. Do not place cams here. Belay from an anchor of small wires above the flake. Second pitch is a similarly scarely wire fest. At easier grade..... Might be better in warmer weather. Good to have done but not super fun at the time... Bring almost no cams (or micros only) and a double rack of small wires.

A pleasant surprise. Good moves, a bit grotty down low.