Routen in Rumänien für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

The route has a lot of pythons and can be easily aided (6+, A0).

The crux move is morpho so the grade is subjective. At 1,74 I would say it is around (hard) 8-.

The route wanders a lot so half-ropes are really useful. Also, half-ropes are really useful for the retreat.

After the last pitch, continue to climb over some grass ledges, then descend on the south side and find a rappel station. From here, a long abseil follows (around 60m) or 2 shorter ones (you will find the chains of a sport route for the second abseil).

While going from the last belay station to the rappel station it is recommended to remain roped .

Another option is to abseil over the same side you climbed (look around for other belay stations from other routes, it might be useful).

Initially opened up as a trad linkup of Umbra Muchiei and Traseul Vânătorilor de Munte , this was reequipped as a mixed trad route (currently on spaced up bolts and some old pitons, with plenty of gear opportunities. Described is the classical entrance from Umbra Muchiei, with the Vanatori lower traverse version being easier but far more exposed to rockfall from the routes above.

P1: Common with Umbra Muchiei. Climb a detached boulder and then head on a left-leaning crack (6a+)

P2: Common with Umbra Muchiei. Can be broken in two pitches using the intermediate belay from the Vanatori lower traverse. If doing it in a single pitch, keep an eye on your rope management, since the line traverses more than is visible in the topo. Pitch 2A continues slightly leftward on the widening crack to a human-sized alveole, then heads up over a slight overhang to a grassy ledge that leads rightwards to the intermediate belay from the alternative entrance (5c?). Pitch 2B then traverses leftward again on a flake that leads to a crack, then past an overhang and rightwards again on easy terrain on Vanatori face to a ledge at the base of a chimney.

P3: While Umbra Muchiei heads left directly on the arete, Umbra Vânătorilor climbs straight up on the chimney, then once it ends in a small alcove traverses right to a slightly overhanging offwidth that exits on the arete, near a dead tree. Belay on the left of the tree is part of Umbra Muchiei, and entirely avoided when linking the following pitch with the chimney/offwidth. 6a+

P4: Head on the arete on easy and airily protected ledges to a belay at the base of a large rock fang. 5b

P5: Climb the rock fang on very easy terrain with 1 5b flake until reaching a rap station. Either regroup there and rap on the other side of the flake to where the line joins Vanatori, or be lowered there and belay and then lower your second. 5b

P6: Common with Vanatori. Follow the vertical, then slightly overhanging crack through gorgeous white rock. Short but physical. 6a+, or 5c A0.

P7: Common with Vanatori. Follow a right-arcing crack (6c or A1) and traverse right into a dihedral (5c/6a) before exiting to the final belay. From there, there are 10 more meters of scrambling to the cross. 6c, or 6a A0