Begehungen in ABCD haben Beta

2nd go, should have flashed - footwork really terrible after too much steep bouldering on plastic. Cool slab crux sequence.

Setting up a toprope, I get confused which route is which around here

Fun route with a beautiful bit of slab as a treat at the end.

Was going to call this an Onsight, but at the crux I arguably traversed too far right onto the sinker hand jams, which are awesome and bomber, but likely considered off route (part of 'Zero Gulley'). Found a sequence for a direct finish, so I'll try that next time for propa R.P.🔴

A slightly mossy start distracts from what would otherwise be a cool slab to start on. After some ledges higher up, you get onto a beautiful bit of slab for the last few bolts.

Fun route, little tricky near the end

Turns out I TR-ed this in 2015 (5 years ago! ha!) so can't call this an onsight, can I? Nice scramble up followed by a sensational slabfest at the top.

Hardest part is finding out what kind of holds you want to use. A little soft for the grade.

Stable footwork required on slippery surfaces at bottom half. Very slippery when wet but possible to find positive footholds.

Rope drag is a b*tch, luckily the top half dries out quicker than the bottom.

Has chains on the face but there's also a ledge to top out to access American Pie wall. 25m to reach the chain anchor.

Onsight LRS romp, made slightly more entertaining by back and footing up the crux for the lols. Surprisingly in excellent dry condition unlike most of the rest of DF. The anchor chains at the top are woefully inadequate, using what looks like 3mm unrated maillons and a weird mix of two different thicknesses of flimsy chain. I would not be surprised by complete equipment failure if anyone shock loaded this while rappelling. I will replace with new bolts, chains and maillons next time I’m putting up a new route in the vicinity. Fortunately there are other anchors above that can be used, although again there is a wild discrepancy between the strengths of the anchors and the substandard chains and maillons they have been equipped with.

Used a toprope I set up for a couple of friends on "Zero-Gully". Fell on the crux then got it. Ready to try on lead, the route is straightforward except for one thuggy (but fun) move. Then got rained off unfortunately.

Move up to second clip is waaay harder than 6a, unless i missed something obvious. Won't give away the beta here but took a while to work out and was very physical. The rest was a breeze; if you can get past the second clip the moss isn't going to give you much of a problem, but it is a bit dirty. Send with rests and falls.

actually, this is the easiest lead route in Dairy Farm.. So let's give it 5a.

Failed the onsight attempt because of the crux of right hand crimp into a left hand pinch-undercling. Pretty rough start, but smooth end.

Don't know if this is the correct route but its the most corner one like in the topo. Full sports route, would rate a 5a/5b but the last move to the anchor may be too much for a 5a/b. All in all easy route, saw a tiny snake skin the the middle, should't be a concern. Please use a 60M rope.

two attempts; great few moves up the face of the slab.

doesn't seem climbed much so was a bit mossy

Quite slabby in a few bits but a nice climb. there is a few wet spots on the far right side, but really not interfering with the route. Anchor has a vertical face right at the finish.

Very mossy until 2/3 of the way to the anchor

Nice and dry, new torque nuts slotting in great

Recently (in the last 2yrs), trees overhead have created shade on the rock, so now the rock stays wet, encouraging moss to grow.

From the bottom, it looks like it should be a relatively nice climb. But looks can be deceiving. The lower section is currently covered in a thick later of moss. The interesting looking crack system in the 2nd half of the climb is a bit chossy. Protection is OK at best.

Used one bolt to protect the early moves. Lots of pro but mostly bad quality rock.

Led this route after being attacked by wasps.

Climbed as a 3-man team (with Siva & Kahlil). I led first pitch. Kahlil had to retreat on the second due to overgrown route

All trad

Lots of loose rock! Can be a challenging scramble to the start of the climb. Exposed belay at the base of first pitch - recommend anchoring the belayer.

Frequent rock fall is obvious to left of the pitch.