Routen als alpin in South America

A line on the central wall: a huge, vaulted ceiling, with many roofs.

Gear

• double set of cams to #4
• one each to #6
• two sets of TCUs
• stoppers
• RPs
• five peckers
• three angles
• seven lost arrows
• three knifeblades
• two hooks

The route breaches a hitherto unclimbed crack system up the sharp and elegant East Pillar of Torre Egger and was envisaged by the late Marc-André Leclerc during his ground-breaking first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in 2016.

Source planetmountain.com

The route follows an extremely logical system of cracks and the pitches flow spectacularly from one to the next… a stand out feature is the overhanging corner in the center of the route marked by a 100m crack and dozens of meters of perfect hand jams! It’s a pitch dreams are made of! The upper section of the route proved somewhat easier but by no means less beautiful.

Source Matteo Della Bordella via planetmountain.com

On the east face.

A hard, varied route with all nature of cracks.

pataclimb

The Long Run 6c A1 M7, 2100 m, Cerro Torre, new route, following whole SE Ridge of the mountain and summiting two other “cerros” on the way: El Mochito (by a new route, 6a, 250m) and El Mocho (by Benitieres, Anker-Piola, ED-, 6c A1).

Up offwidth #6, (ignore guide that says only up to #3) and then chimney, layback corner and ledges. The crack system on upper tier before final crux chimney is superb. Apparently a #4 or 2 is helpful for crux pitch.

left up ramp to soaring right facing corner. after 250m head right across snowfield to final 3 pitches.

In 1970 Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus and Pietro Vidi opened this new route on the southeast face with the aid of a gas-powered compressor drill. Maestri equipped 350 metres (1,150 ft) of rock with bolts and got to the end of the rocky part of the mountain, just below the ice mushroom. Maestri claimed that "the mushroom is not part of the mountain" and did not continue to the summit. The compressor was left, tied to the last bolts, 100 m below the top. Maestri was heavily criticised for the "unfair" methods he used to climb the mountain.

The route Maestri followed is now known as the Compressor route and was climbed to the summit in 1979 by Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer. Most parties consider the ascent complete only if they summit the often-difficult ice-rime mushroom.

The first undisputed ascent was made in 1974 by the "Ragni di Lecco" climbers Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri.

Source Wikipedia