Begehungen in Schweden haben Beta

Needed two attempts today. Had forgotten the last few moves.

Tried to climb only on the arete. Was way harder, but also nicer.

Helt ok med rätt beta. Ledtråd: det finns en väldigt trevlig hälkrok som Viktor hittade.

Lite sträckig och ojämn, svår avslutning

Tuff uppvärmning, trodde jag skulle falla

Hård start och sketchy andra clip. Borde ändå gå nästa gång känns det som, om jag vågar klippa. Landningen är inte så dålig i alla fall.

Been on this before, but long time ago, unsure if i sent it then. Went on first try today.

For stockholm, this is a really nice trad lead. A little sparse in protection in the start, then good moves on bomber gear.

Very intesting positions, might be easier if you are tall.

Tricky moves, even the 6a part did not go on first try.

Roligt sloperproblem. Försök att ignorera hyllan som kan vara lite störande så inser du att klättringen är grym!

Retro flash.

Was on it a few years ago and close then, but never put all the QDs in like today. Guess that's progress? 7c start beta to make it work with a dead point, and another deadpoint to a sloper before getting a hero jug and then still having to claw your way up to the chains... Would be 6c at some other crags. Maybe it was just hot with bad stick or I'm just weak...

Was on it years ago. easy day" send, have been feeling off. Crux does not feel 6b to onsight if you're 170 or under, fits closer to the grades of the routes to the left. Put QDs in and then had to get it next go sweating my hands off on the upper part. Start is easy enough that it makes you think it's 6b but...

Could use some cleaning, but ok to climb. Some clips are a little scary.

I feel it's harder than 7a for short climbers, the non-standard crux beta is way harder.

Hot conditions in the sun - foot slip on the first try. Unsure how far to traverse to the right into luftslottet during the upper crux

Really crimpy crux, followed by some balancy moves. The hardest part is about 6/7 meters, the rest is easier but fun, with an exposed finish. Beta felt good after the 2nd try, will come back.

Awesome technical climbing! Checked out once, one super good go - fell of at the very last move (crux) Afterwards the sun arrived

Bouldery

Reachy; hidden jug, hard to onsight

The idea was to warm up on this but got a bit pumped and had trouble committing above the bolt in the end... I did get warm anyways, the send will be for another day.

Did a beta that goes a to the right at the start, and avoids matching on the terrible crux hold. 2nd bolt precipped, but could have been done with a longer draw/bigger balls. This way I would say its soft 7a, the other way its harder, but feels a bit like elimination.

Felt tough, but an absolut kingline!

Felt quite hard, but apparently fucked up the crux - there is supposed to be an easier beta

Got eaten by mosquitos and wasn't able to think about the beginning - just cleaned my friends quickdraws

No trad gear used

Felt very hard for the grade.

cruxy, bad conditions in the sun

Really crimpy and powerful. Not a good warmup.

Really had to give it all to reach the last jug, soo cool!

Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131 Time: 12:44:34 Climb Duration: 00:08:24 Max. Heart Rate: 121BPM Height: 11,41m

Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch.

Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131 Time: 14:46:21 Climb Duration: 01:18:26 Max. Heart Rate: 156BPM Height: 16,86m

Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch.

Location: 59.2072201, 17.884131 Time: 15:52:50 Climb Duration: 00:17:33 Max. Heart Rate: 156BPM Height: 17,65m

Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch.

Riktigt fint! Bouldrig start, känsligt sva i mitten, sedan brantare och lite pumpigt avslut på superfina grepp. Jag höll höger om bultlinjen i slutet vilket jag tror kan vara soft 6c+ men det ser lite lättare ut till vänster, dock inte lika fint!

Lite för svettigt idag..

Upp till näst sista klippet

Tuff start för att vara 6a

Rätt kul boulder i starten, sedan supersköna grepp och fint sva som avslut.

Fin och mycket jämnare än flera andra leder här.

Birthday send! Really like the climb, felt easy on the send go, but slipped off it many times before...

First hang dog of part of an 8a (is that grade on 27 crags). Only got half way but actually was fun in the start. Not quite sure about how to clip bolt 5. Wish I'd had more time (but we were camping and I had terrible cramps in the morning, late start). Beta video shows clipping from this crimp but in this hot weather I can't imagine that working. Need to go back. Actually fun route that is not slabby

Stick clipped to almost last bolt. Moves are reachy. Route is morpho. Conditions were bad even in the shade. Too hot. Got more fun and doable from right before bolt 4 to 5, could've led that. But the reachy stuff in the start is a height and flexibility limit for me. Feet slipping a lot