Routen in Dorset für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

The depression.

One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m.

14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg…

A variant second pitch which has likely been climbed in some form or another in years past. From the end of the first pitch of 'Jo', keep traversing/trending rightward past the 'Jo' second pitch groove. Eventually trend upwards. Stay right of two ancient pegs that are just left of a flake/fin. Make a transition here onto the face and finish direct. Be careful of the loose top out, making your way left over to the stakes of 'Jo'.

1. 15m 5a A nice corner pitch
2. 18m 5b thrutchy overhanging pitch with some rusty pegs.

1. 5c. From lower boulder step across to the left-hand side of arête of Broken Trail. Climb left side of the chert arête to belay on slab above.

2. 5b. head up right and over head wall to gain gentle slab above. Two bolt belay where it ends. Walk off.

Watch out for the large boulder at the bottom of this route, making a fall from the first bolt quite painful!

Same start as One Fine Day but follow the bolts off the the right. It is heavily bolted, you will need 13 quick draws, so it feels mega safe but with plenty of rope drag as well.

Ascend the wall to the left of the chimney.