Routen in Llanberis Valley Area

Plenty of rather big and also rather hollow flakes. Dont bother to test them, you'll just get scared. Follow the obvious diagonal line to the left of Equinox. At the point where they meet either take the left hand branch or the righthand branch, easier.

The left line through the roof

The second line of bolts on the slab between Rack and Pin to the left and The Mallard to the right.

The third line of bolts on the slab between Sodor to the left and Polar Express to the right.

Either continue up P2 of 'Brant' or belay on the right and abseil off.

Fifth line of bolts after the slab.

Epic sustained thin crack line left of the Memory Lane arête above the Garden. Access via multiple lines.

Mega classic. A good test for your route reading skills. Quite serious for it's grade

Go straight up instead of traversing left

The corner of the left hand side of the slab.

The fourth line of bolts on the slab between The Mallard to the left and Ivor the Engine to the right.

Rockfax Description The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.

1. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.

2. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.

3. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above.

4. Finish as for P3 of Nea (ed. Up left easily OR rap off the tatt at end of P3) . © ROCKFAX

Start on the sloping ledge and follow the bolts up the to an "unseeable" lower off. If you climb on, they will come!

Follow the obvious crack system with some punchy moves but generally well protected.

The shallow groove left and around the arete to the lower offs.

Second line of bolts on the level, trends rightwards via 3 bolts to a lower off.

The fith line of boths on the slab between The Polar Express to the left and Gordon in the corner to the right.

Last line of bolts on The Sidings Level.

A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.

1. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.

2. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.

3. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).

4. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.

5. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.

6. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived! Descend the main gully to the right.

A scrappy start leads to an exciting crucial traverse under the large diagonal overhang. Start by scrambling up to the foot of the groove that leads up to the left end of the overhang.

1. 4a. 27m. Climb the groove to belay under the huge roof.

2. 4c. 12m. A series of three ledges leads up rightwards under the overhang. From the top ledge a hard move right gains a short groove. Climb to a tree belay.

3. 8m. Climb easily to good ledge.

The right line up to the roof before climbing out right.

old route which was re-cleaned and had a double lower off fitted courtesy of mr goodey, in Aug/09. Excellent gear but not in the first 15ft. Double bolt lower off.

The left hand line in the corner, the right hand one being Thomas the Tank.

Just over the stile in Vivian quarry, next to dive platform. 2 bolts and wires

Straight up instead of heading to arête for second pitch

Make a bold start to reach the 1st of 4 bolts positioned 2 close, runout, 2 close, finish right to bolt anchor.

P1- Climb first pitch of the cracks to belay ledge with good pro. 10m P2 - Climb as for 'Lorraine' but head straight across right after approx 5m and up the slab. Great pitch with some longer run-outs to great flake belay. 40m P3 - Up and over flake and across ledge to main corner crack. Head up to fixed rope belay. 20m approx. P4 - Head up ledge to one move wonder and to fixed belay at top. 10m approx.

A classic slate test piece. Thin and sustained climbing with the hardest section above the 2nd bolt. After the 3rd is clipped traverse left to a 4th bolt and finish direct to a lower-off. Apparently it's graded 7a+ sport some places, E5 6b other places due to spacing of bolts...a very slate debate. Only in the quarries.

A mega route that is sustained but well protected.