Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | Gebiet | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
VD UKT:4a | ★★ Hollybush Crack
The clean crack in the right facing corner. The lower section is somewhat polished and is the crux while the upper section is a bit more juggy but still interesting. Good gear throughout. Erstbegehung: George Bower, 1926 | 14m | Stanage | ||
HVD 3c | ★★ Heather Wall
Jam and lay back the obvious crack to the left of the wall | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Christmas Curry
S 4a 25m, 4a 15m, 4a 20m A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress © Rockfax | 60m, 3 | Tremadog Area | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Green Gut | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Black Hawk Hell Crack
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Tennis Shoe
Erstbegehung: N E Odell, 1919 | 160m, 7 | Ogwen Valley Area | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★★ Flying Buttress
Erstbegehung: Fergus Graham, 1922 | 24m | Stanage | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Right Hand Trinity
The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up. | 13m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Poor Man's Peuterey
5 Pitches, great for bringing beginners, or on a wet day. | 77m | Tremadog Area | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ North Climb
Climb the wide crack to the left hand end of the slab. Erstbegehung: James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop & C Douglas Yeomans, 1906 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Allen's Slab
Start up Gamma then head right at the diagonal crack along sparse gear, continue to traverse right along the scooped ledge then finish up jugs left of Trapeze Direct | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct
Erstbegehung: Cyril Ward, 1922 | 23m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Black and Tans
1
S 4a
12m
2
3c
18m
A superior variation on Black Velvet. Climb the corner half way up that route, but move out left to a possible belay. Climb the corner above to an exposed nose which is climbed by a series of awkward and poorly protected mantelshelves Erstbegehung: A S 'Fred' Pigott, 1922 | 30m, 2 | Staffordshire | ||
3+ | ★ Tom's Patience
| 12m, 5 | Swanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Bishop's Route
| 25m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Route 2 | 6m | Burbage Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Raven Gully
A high-moorland classic that features crack-climbing in all of its guises. It is possible to run the upper pitches together. Start on the right side of the flake that sits at the base of the gully.
| 30m, 3 | Hay Tor | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Second Corner
A well-protected pitch. Start at the shallow corner and crack directly above ‘The Bad Step’. 14m: Step in from the right and use twin cracks to gain the corner… | 14m | Swanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Bypass
Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake. | 10m | Swanage | ||
{FB} 3C | ★ Nobody's Business
| 3m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Amazon Crack
| 12m | Stanage | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ P.M.C. 1
| 16m | Curbar Edge | ||
VD UKT:4a | Corner Buttress Route 1
Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.
| 63m, 4 | Wintour's Leap | ||
VD UKT:4a | ★ Route 3 | 6m | Burbage Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Aged Crack | 8m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Doorway
1
S 4a
20m
2
-
12m
3
4a
27m
Erstbegehung: J Cortlandt-Simpson & W J Hutchinson, 1949 Erstbegehung: J M Edwards, N E Morin & N Albion, 1953 | 59m, 3 | Bosigran | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Rodney's Dilemma
| 12m | Rivelin Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Central Rib Route 1
1
S 4a
24m
2
S 4a
12m
3
S
12m
4
S 4a
15m
Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish. | 63m, 4 | Wintour's Leap | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Eric's Eliminate
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Traditional | 8m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★ Black Velvet
Start at the holly. Swing left on to a ledge, then move left again to climb a corner leading to a roof. Sumount this and continue up an easier finishing crack. Erstbegehung: 1957 | 27m | Staffordshire | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Chiming Crack | 10m | Millstone Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Triangle Buttress Direct | 8m | Burbage Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ New Boots and Panties
| 22m | Anglesey | ||
S UKT:4a | Green Crack | 10m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Mississippi Crack | 10m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Ash Tree Wall
Up to the end of the obvious crack, then traverse left and diagonally right up groove. | 14m | Burbage Valley | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Balch's Slide
| 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Sleepwalk | 63m, 4 | Avon Gorge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Balcony Buttress
| 20m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Birds Nest | Swanage | |||
VD UKT:4a | Trafalgar Crack
Erstbegehung: Eric Byne (early 1930s) | 14m | Birchen Edge | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★★ Pedestal Route
1
HVD 4a
12m
2
3c
15m
Erstbegehung: Morley Wood, 1922 | 27m, 2 | Staffordshire | ||
{FR} 3+ | ★ Tombstone | 14m | Portland | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Golden Fleece | Symonds Yat | |||
{FR} 3c | ★ Imperfect
Whether you start from the left or right of the scoop, it has really tricky first move for the grade. "Princess Bolting" is a better route as an introduction/warm up. | Portland | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Emma's Dilemma
Erstbegehung: Eric Byne early 1930s | 14m | Birchen Edge | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Eartha | 18m | Millstone Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Slack
1
S
20m
2
20m
3
4a
12m
4
18m
Erstbegehung: I. Cartledge & J. Lees, 1960 | 70m, 4 | Moelwynion | ||
{FB} 3C | ★ Black Wall
| 4m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 3c | ★ Uranus
| 7m | Peak District Limestone | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Kirkus's Climb Direct
1
S 4a
12m
2
4a
20m
3
4a
20m
4
12m
Erstbegehung: C. F. Kirkus & C. G. Kirkus, 1928 | 64m, 4 | Moelwynion | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Hollybush Crack
Bridge anxiously up above the holly until a difficult step can be made right to a wide crack. Follow this to the top. Erstbegehung: traditional | 26m | Staffordshire | ||
HS UKT:4a | Worker's Wall
a fairly tough line that has some very good moves and feels much longer than it actually is. start at a crack system 5m right of the edge of the crag. | 16m | Sheepstor | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Sea Mist
Erstbegehung: G Evans & J Harwood, 1978 | 30m | Pembroke | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Overhanging Buttress Direct | 10m | Burbage Valley | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Flake Crack | 10m | Ilkley | ||
SCTW:III SCTWT:4 | ★★★ Left Twin | 120m | West Highlands | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Limbo
| 14m | Stanage | ||
3c | ★ Windowside Spout
A direct chimney ascent with a challenging beginning. | 8m | Kent | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Bard the Bowman
A supprisingly good route with solid gear and a nice position. The first obviously cleared route on the left hand end of the crag. | 15m | Goblin Combe | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Pulpit Arete | 20m | Lowland Outcrops | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Dover's Wall, Route 1
| 12m | Stanage | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★ Helfenstein's Struggle
| 20m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ The Crab Crawl
| 12m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Bulging Arete | 10m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Flying Buttress
| 12m | Curbar Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Gangway
A fun route that swallows small nuts. Getting established on the wall takes a bit of effort. Once on follow the rightward trending ramp. Exit directly before the climbing gets too hard. | 15m | Swanage | ||
S UKT:4a | The Christiania Swing
The original route on this buttress. Starts up 'Niche Wall Direct' before finishing up 'Nicheless Climb'. | 10m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | Suspension | 10m | Swanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Caesar's Nose
| 8m | The Dewerstone | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Right Triplet Crack | 6m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★ Wall Corner
Up arete. | 10m | Burbage Valley | ||
VS UKT:4a | ★★ Fairy Steps
| 16m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★★ Avernus | Swanage | |||
HS UKT:4a | Burdock
the capping overhang that runs right across the wall has a number of breaks that provide cruxes for all routes that cross it. start just right of omega crack | 10m | Sheepstor | ||
MS UKT:4a | ★★ Paradise Crack
| 14m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ The Niche | 12m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
HS UKT:4a | The Socialist
| 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | Urchin
The fourth corner, has a short rib to reach it. | 25m | Pembroke | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★★ January Jigsaw
Erstbegehung: Ogilvy & Speakman | 85m, 4 | West Highlands | ||
{FB} 3+ | Don's Arête | Staffordshire | |||
S UKT:4a | The arete
| 6m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 3c | ★ Kirrie on Regardless
| 10m | North East Outcrops & Angus | ||
{FB} 3+ | Finisterre
| Birchen Edge | |||
{FB} 3+ | Pick | Burbage Valley | |||
{FB} 3+ | Sheep Easy | Burbage Valley | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Zig Zag | 15m | Caley Crags | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Face | 10m | Swanage | ||
S UKT:4a | Still Orange
Dave's first new route. Erstbegehung: Dave Gregory. 1956 | 12m | Burbage Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | Dandelion
another good little pitch that is perhaps the easiest of the three severes on this section of the wall. start at the base of the crack that leads to the right of the overhangs. | 10m | Sheepstor | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Technical Slab
Erstbegehung: A Bowden Black, 1945 | 24m | Staffordshire | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Slab Recess
| Pembroke | |||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Chiseller | 10m | Ilkley | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Kelly's Variation
| 14m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Centre Route | 10m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
HVD 3c | ★ Bow Crack | 6m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★★ Bow Shaped Slab
Erstbegehung: J Perrin & C Mortlock, 1970 | 42m | Pembroke | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Joy
Erstbegehung: L Williams & D Bateman, 1974 | 18m | Trewavas | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Horatio's Horror
Erstbegehung: Keith Axon, 1949 | 14m | Birchen Edge |