Routen in Maine

1st pitch climbs thin fingers to wide hands. Ends at large ledge with dead looking tree at same level as anchor for Old Town. 2nd pitch climbs awkwardly sized chimney to finger/hand sized crack to ledge. Belay from here, then traverse up & left to anchor for Return to Forever for descent. Make 2 raps to ground.

The start is at the dead tree under the roof. Big holds at the start and good feet. The direct line gives you crimpers with hard feet , to a throw to the roof. You can also skip the throw and go for a 2 finger sloper that is a high reach, but not as high as the jugs just over the roof. Once you get to the roof, you feel like you want to bail as you get pumped. The holds over the roof are sharp and cut into the hand. They make it hard to hold on. The grade for the direct route is 5.11a from what I am told. It seems harder than that to me, but it may no be. The second line is a left side variation. This brings you away from the bolted line. It is a little more run out if you try this ascent. Before you get to the shark tooth type crimper before the roof, head left. You will have to use the hold under the steep section before the roof with your left hand. Then you have to cross over to the tooth type hold out left with your right hand. It feels like you will barndoor here, but if you pull hard with your left hand, you will stay on. Then you reach up with your left hand to the shark tooth hold your right hand is on. Then throw up with your right hand to the crimper. Bring your left foot up to the big slopey section. Then reach up to under the roof with your right hand to a sloper. You can get 3 fingers on this hold. Then move your right foot out to the shark tooth type hold that is just by the bolt. Get your left hand on the sloper under the roof. It gets tough here. You have to get the left foot up on the slopey section that looks terrible. It holds you if you hold on tightly with noth hands. Then you have to throw to the jugs with your right hand. You will just about come off if you can stay on at all. Once you get this hold or the jugs, it gets awkward. The holdsa are big, but like the driect line, they cut. This is the variation to The biggest jugs you'll ever fall off.

a good warm up, hand traverse the lip and exit the broken rock on the left side.