Routes in Africa for selected grade

Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!

1. [10] 10m

2. [11] 30m

3. [10] 45m

4. [9] 6m

Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m right of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route.

Season: Christmas to mid-March. Time: Allow 6-7 hours for the ascent of Nelion and a further 3 hours for reaching Batian and returning to Nelion. It’s advis­able to spend a night in the Howell Hut on Nelion’s summit.

The route is rather complex, and much of the climbing is not above grade III. With difficult ice conditions the Gate of the Mists may be IV. An ice-axe and crampons are recommended. Throughout the climb care is needed to avoid dislodging loose stones.

From the Austrian Hut cross the Lewis Glacier and scramble up the scree, which has many precariously balanced boulders and can be dangerous in half-light. Start climbing up a side groove about 55 m left of the obvious Brocherei Couloir. 18 m of easy climbing brings one to a wide, boulder-strewn ter­ race, at the left end of which is a gully (Donkey Walk) leading up to the left. Scramble up the gully for 25 m, then a mounting traverse back to the right up a series of easy ledges on the face.

A move round a corner (III) leads to the foot of Mackinder’s Chimney. Instead of climbing the chimney, descend 21/2m and traverse right 6 m to a platform below the Rabbit Hole then climb a rib immediately right of the Rabbit Hole (III) and follow easy rocks to a platform at the top of Mackinder’s Chimney. One o’clock Gully (quite easy, unless ice-filled) now leads up right for 40 m. Where it steepens, mount the left wall then traverse back right to reach block steps leading up to the crest of the main ridge. When it appears obvious, make a long traverse right across slab then up toward the base of Mackinder’s Gendarme. A tin shelter (Baillie’s Bivi), is found just below the notch beneath Mackinder’s Gendarme on the main ridge. This is approximately half-way up Nelion. Turn the Gendarme on the left by first descending 7 to 10 m and then up a large gully.

Most parties nowadays follow the De Graaf's Variation, which is the easiest and most direct route (IV inf.). Avoid Shipton’s and Rickety Cracks by a traverse left for some 12 m out of a large gully, following the ascent of the square-cut groove for about 20 m and then straightforward climbing to the ridge leading to the Amphitheatre.

Alternatively, instead of traversing 12 m out of the large gully, continue up the gully to two short chimneys known as Shipton's Crack's (IV inf.), which lead to a small platform (Windy Gap), between the Gendarme and the main face, recent years many parties have found the traverse of the Gendarme the easiest and quickest way of reaching Windy Gap. From Windy Gap climb 2 m over a bulge on the face to reach a ledge; follow this right until peters out on the main face From here Rickety Crack (IV inf.) leads upwards for about 8 m to a platform. (A jammed nose of rock 2 m above the bottom of the crack can be used for protection on the first awkward exposed moves up the crack). Climb 30 m up a ridge to the right leading to a point overlooking the Amphithatre.

Belay at the edge of the Amphitheatre and climb down 8 m to the right (III). Work round the back wall of the Amphitheatre to cracks leading up left into the bed of the gully. Ascend the gully, much loose rock, for two pitches to a plat- form A 5 m wall is climbed by a shallow chimney (III), followed by a scramble over loose rock to a col overlooking the Diamond Glacier. Turn sharp right and up easy rocks to the summit of Nelion.

Variations: The Crack directly above Windy Gap has also been climbed out of season (Pfeffer and Pauer, August 1957). The chimney to the left of the point where the route traverses right into the Amphitheatre was climbed first by E. Sladen in 1938.

The summit of Batian is only 140 m away in a hori­zontal distance, but drop of nearly as many metres 'nto the Gate of the Mists is involved. The ridge may be followed from Nelion, traversing down on the north side, then turning towards the Gate. Keep under an overhanging cliff and descend to a boss of rock just above the Gate. Climb down this (III or IV), possibly leaving a rope to facilitate the return, as there’s usual­ly ice in the cracks. Cross the snow in the Gate (which may be corniced); as the icework is less than a rope’s length it is possi­ble to belay from either side. Traverse round the base of the Tower, on its north side, up scree or snow, and over the ridge behind the Tower onto the South Face of Batian. Ledges lead left across the face into a gully. This is then followed to the summit, but if it’s ice-filled take the wall to the right of the gully and chimney, taking care because of loose rock.

There is now a bolted abseiling route down Nelion. Follow arrows. Best done with 25 metre abseils. See here for details: https://www.summitpost.org/nelion-descent/160054

Major variations: Two variations have been done to join the Normal Route at Mackinder's Gendarme. 1a - East Ridge: This ridge of Nelion which rise from Flake Col consists of very loose shattered rock. Start 50 m left to the col and ascend ramp to ridge. The first four pitches are on poor rock and the fifth and sixth pitches are the most difficult. Climb the ridge then abseil into the top of the Brocherel Couloir and traverse to Mackinder's Gendarme. (A.G. Chinery and T. Welker, 14th Jan. 1965. Grade IV sup.).

1b - Brocherel Couloir: This prominent couloir right of the Normal Route start was climbed by P. Snyder and R. Collister in 1974. Grade V.

Shares the first bolt with 'Crouching Tiger', then climb up the slab.

Start at a small jagged block. Climb the face, trending somewhat right at the top to lower-offs.

The wide crack just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'.

Very short super-beginner / kids route at the left end of the cliff.

The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor.

Used to be a standard beginners route, but far too easy for beginners these days.

1. Climb the obvious left sloping crack to a large ledge with a tree at the left-hand end.

2. Climb the recess in the corner for one move and traverse left onto the clean face which is climbed to the top.

Climb the slab to the shared top anchors of The Wildling. Perma-draws at top.

Climb the face just to the left of an obvious recess. Use the same lower-offs as WALKING THE DOG.

The standard beginners route on excellent rock. Takes the furthest, obvious easy angled face visible from the path that leads down between the Eastern and the Lower Middle Buttresses. Start just left of a small tree below a big corner. Climb directly up the middle of the face and exit up the shallow crack.

Walk around to the face on the opposite side to the previous climbs. Climb the horns and jugs on the arête slightly to the right of the bolts (Baby Bear - 8), or climb straight up the line of bolts (Pappa Bear - 10), or climb the arête to the left of the bolts (Momma Bear - 9).

Shares top anchors with The Imp. Perma-draws at top.

Sit-start and climb up on jugs.

About 40m downstream of 'Church Window' a number of boulders block the stream over which you have to scramble. The climb is just downstream of these boulders on the true right. The climb starts in a 4m high dihedral.

1. [6] 24m

   From the base of the climb you can see a short (2m) chimney about 20m above you. Just above the chimney is a tree, this is the first belay. Climb up the dihedral, go up and right until you are at the same height as the chimney but 3m right of it. Traverse over sloping holds on ramp to the tree.

2. [10] 15m

   Behind the tree is a large chimney/crack with some chockstones at the top. Climb this. Above the crack step left and climb the next crack, also with chockstones above. Belay on short stamvrug tree at the base of a large cave/chimney. Don't go left around the first crack; the climbing looks easy and the protection is good but you will end up just a little above the small tree for the belay and the rock is a bit too chossy at this point for a good anchor.

3. [7] 25m

   Walk into cave/chimney around the corner where it makes a left turn. Walk out onto outcrop and take in the exposure (you can belay here if the rope drag is too much). Then go back and continue up chimney and then left to a large ledge with a tree belay.

On right of ledge is a boulder, climb over this and scramble down gully to a large tree and abseil down. (46m to bottom)

Alternative to pitch 1 (12): Climb the chimney instead of going around it. Optional pitch 4 (9m, 7): To top out: On the right of the ledge on top of pitch 3 is a boulder. From this boulder up about 1m then traverse left until you can easily scramble to the top. From here walk right to a point above the big abseil tree mentioned above in this description and make a short abseil to it and then a long abseil to the bottom..

This climbs the root-infested gulley 10m to the right of 'Devil's Disciple'. Shares chains with 'Devil's Disciple'. Expect to get your ropes damp in the wet season.

The line that sticks mainly to the left of the face left of Cain.

Proceed 80m upstream from the meet point to where the ground rises to being about 5m above the stream bed. A large tree will be seen at the top of a 4m cliff to your left. Scramble up left, over easy rock and roots (usually wet) to the pinnacle, which is some 40m high. The front and downstream sides are undercut and the pinnacle stands 1,5m from the main kloof wall, forming a chimney. Both of the first pitches described below start at the downstream end of the pinnacle, where the pinnacle meets the main kloof wall.

1. 20m 11 Climb in the recess, make some awkward moves over the bulge and enter the neck between the kloof wall and the pinnacle atop some large blocks.

2. 20m 10 Climb the magnificent crack running up the back of the pinnacle to the summit. A superb pitch!

Notes:

1. Most people climb only the second pitch of this route, which is superb. To reach this, approach the pinnacle on the upstream side and enter the narrow gully/chimney. Continue until the obvious corner on the pinnacle is seen.

2. To descend, jump from the ledge on the upstream side to a ledge on the kloof wall. Traverse right to a tree in recess. Scramble to top or abseil down.

Shares the 1st 3 bolts with 'Arielle'. Climb up left on the right hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m right of 'The Huffing Warthog'.

An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block, tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face.

Situated in Boulder Kloof, about 150m upstream from the Lower Tonquani junction, there is a large open book which continues to the top of the cliff. The right hand side of the open book offers an unattractive overgrown grey face but the left hand side offers a clean red face diagonally cut from left to right by a slanting chimney-like crack.

1. 25m 10 Up this crack via short chimney to tree belay.

2. 25m 10 From tree traverse left for 6m on to exposed face. Up face 9m bearing left, then on easier rock to top.

The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on 'Floating on the Storm'. Step back left to 'Floating on the Storm' lower-offs after surmounting the block.

Although it wanders about and is scruffy in places this route is still very popular and is one of the classic climbs on Table Mountain. Although most parties commence at the level of Africa Ledge, which drops the standard of the route to "E3", the climb starts at the top of Africa Ravine. A left variation was opened in 1947 but these pitches are now used by Africa Sideburn.

These top sections commence near the extreme left-hand end of Africa Ledge. The pitch is up a face about 10m to the left of the recess used by Africa Nose which is on the left-hand side of the large overhangs.

1. 12m "E1": Climb the face to the ledge above to the left of a rock pillar.

2. Traverse left and scramble through two short rock-bands to a ledge that ends under an overhang.

3. 12m "E2": Climb up to the overhang, traverse right and then continue up to the ledge above. As this pitch is rather bushy it is now usual to do a variation to the right. Climb up a short recess of red rock to below an overhand. Swing left and up to step onto a sloping ledge and continue to a good stance.

4. Walk approximately 2 rope lengths to the left and to the base of a very large chimney.

5. 25m "E3": Bridge up the initial metre or two and then either move into the chimney and continue up the crack on the left-hand wall OR continue bridging up the very edge of the chimney and then traverse into the chimney on the left-hand wall to the stance.

6. 25m "D": Climb up the back of the chimney, over a chockstone, and move out left towards a good rock platform. Note (i) It is interesting to watch the facial expressions of a second when he discovers the chockstone is loose. (ii) The Nose Variation starts from this level. If the face is very wet it is probably wise to do this variation.

7. 40m "E1": From the stance move around left on the ledge level with the platform on the face. The exposure now becomes interesting. Continue traversing for about 6m and then move up, using a bollard, and over a smooth sloping section to the top of a second bollard. Continue up for a short distance and then traverse diagonally right towards the chimney. Continue straight up on large holds for the final 10m, on the left-hand edge of the chimney, to a stance under the overhangs. It is possible to break this pitch in two at a small one-man stance below the final vertical section.

8. 40/50m "D": Traverse left until the end of the overhang, then move up and continue along to the extreme left-hand end of the ledge.

9. 15m "E2: Move up and out left from below the small overhang and continue up the crack to a ledge. Walk left to the base of an easy crack.

10. 18m "D": Follow the crack to the summit.

Up to bolt then right to share chains of Loula

The gully. Now has a lot more bolts so it can be led by an 11 leader. Care still required. Better to use the bolts on the right. FA: Who knows (solo) 1991 BB: Gus(?), Clive

Climb left of the bolts

This climb ascends the easy face to the left of 'Terminator' .

1. 20m 11 Take the easiest way up the face.

Note:

Two routes could be made up this face.

Climb up the steps

Commences about 5m above the big tree opposite the lower swimming pool.

1. 25m 11 Straight up the crack starting immediately above the tree to a wide tree-grown ledge. Intermediate belays are possible in this crack.

2. 18m 11 Follow the 3m wide ledge to the left for about 11m to a point underneath a reddish coloured rock face, the upper portions of which overhang. Beneath this overhang is a ledge with a tree and about 2m below this again is the "couch" - a horizontal slit in the rock, deep, broad and level, but barely 15cm high. The pitch from the wide ledge proceeds straight up into the right hand side of the "couch" wherein the body lies prostrate and is then contorted to the left side, and out again to the face which is climbed to the ledge above, where a good belay is obtained on the tree.

3. 25m 10 From the last ledge one can climb out either right or left.

"Short pitches, big ledges. "D"-lightful". Normally only the top pitches are climbed.

Start: 20 odd meters right of Natal Fever and 60m left of Postern Ravine is a black cave-like Chimney. To the left is a clean, square recess.

1. Climb the square recess to a rock platform.

2. Step onto the right edge of the steep rib directly above the platform. Gain a traverse level and walk right across the top of the overhangs above a bay to reach a large ledge.

3. Walk around the corner on the right, move up, then back left on a ledge until you enter a gully which is climbed to the top of a block. Climb up to the Halfway Ledge.

4. On the left is a large square corner capped by overhang. Step up onto the south-facing wall and climb diagonally left to bypass the overhang. Continue up, over an exposed drop on the right to a stance.

5. Make a serious pull up behind the stance and move left into a chimney, which is climbed to the top of the buttress.

Left of 'Groothoek Gully' is a large block with a large tree on top. The climb proper starts on this block.

1. (6) Scramble up block. On top of the block find a corner with an overhang 5m up.

2. (11) Climb up the corner on the left face below the overhang. Traverse left around corner and up on good holds into a chimney above. About 5m into the chimney is a good block-belay.

3. (11) Continue up chimney to a large ledge. Crux has good holds and is well protected with a #3 C4 SLCD.

4. (9) Move around the corner on the extreme right hand side of the large ledge, from this point climbing continues up on good holds with a few steep moves in-between.

5. (8) Continue up until climbing becomes a scramble.

Variations:

(Pitch 3 & 4, 15): From the large ledge, move onte the left hand face at a point about 5m left of the main corner. Climb diagonally leftwards up face to the top. (2002, A. George, A. Porter)

Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last sport route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings.

Takes a direct line up the square buttress just downstream of the pipeline ramp. At the top there is a capstone pointing downstream. Start at water level, just downstream of a tiny waterfall. [G - 5]

1. 25m 7 Climb the centre of the blocky grey faces to a broad ledge with square grey blocks beneath overhangs.

2. 25m 13 Move up into the shallow brown recess and through the overhangs to the right (13). Continue to the top on delightful clean rock up the right-hand centre of the arête (11).

Note: Exposed, clean climbing after the overhangs. The grade 13 moves may be avoided by traversing left onto ZARZUELA.

Start up the corner left of Short and Sweet and then follow the obvious line to the top.

Pleasant but very short. Beware - the middle flake is loose, and will take a downward, but not an outward pull. Climb the large flakes to the right of Sizzle.

Climb the crack.

Start as Just One Second, climb up left to the top

A longish traverse and a quick way to climb out after the day's climbing. Starting at 'Max' in the major corner, climb up to the ledge at 'Exodus' 3rd bolt. Traverse right then diagonally right over a small fig to exit above 'Crouching Tiger'. Belay at the chains above the huge sloping block, or lower back to the ground. Someone will probably have to follow the climb due to the difficulty of cleaning on rappel.

This route commences in a recess at the actual point where the face of Middle Gully Left meets the face of the main kloof.

1. 25m 7 Straight up recess to tree and big stance.

2. 22m 10 Climb 4m in a chimney to a chock stone, which is avoided by a face climb on the right and a pull up to a rock above the chock stone. Continue out to left, reaching a many-boughed tree.

3. 15m 7 Climb crack and face.

Climb the crack system next to large undercut black nose (Grandads Waltz). The start is about 5m to the left of Spiderman Face, up a small smooth open book.

Sit-start and climb the face.

Follow the gnarly arête on the right hand end of the main face.

On the right of the main ledge climb the break, keeping on the left Aretê

The pinnacle is situated on the left hand side of the kloof about 100m below the junction of Great Gully and is only detached at its top. Slightly up kloof of the pinnacle is a small gully on the left. The route starts by entering the gully by a short pitch, after which the pinnacle is climbed in the corner formed by its upstream side and the main face.

1. 12m 10 Take off from a large tree onto a greasy wet slab, from which a short chimney is reached.

2. 15m 8 After walking up the gully for about 10m, climb out on the pinnacle side up a slight recess to a stance on the top of a block.

3. 22m 8 Start in a large chimney separating the pinnacle from the main face, below a large chockstone forming a bridge between the pinnacle and the main face. Climb secondary chimney on the right and over blocks and face to a narrow ledge. Traverse left onto top of chockstone.

4. 12m 8 About 2m back along the traverse referred to under pitch 3 the pinnacle proper may be climbed. (This is actually part of the last pitch of the Frontal route.)

Variation:

1. 10m 10 Climb the very steep, clean corner/recess directly in line with the gully proper.

Start 2m left of 'Taratus'. Climb the crack/ break.

Now-a-days most consider the route out of shape, but in 2005 we found a classic line which doesn't resemble the original route. I could not figure out where the original window used to be. It was a great alpine ice outing.

Start with left hand sloper and right hand crimp and climb up left.

The face just left of the 'Wysiwyg' corner, via a sickle feature about 5m up.

Overgrown at present, but useful as a reference point. Climb a short steep face to an obvious break in a dirty recess. Keep mainly to the left.

Using 'Return Of The Avatar' 1st 2 brackets, climb up and continue left of the fig tree to the 'Exodus' U-bolt anchors.

Sit start and climb the chimney. Top out on right hand shorter boulder.

Climb the arête.

Climb the corner at the right-most side of the face.

The easiest way up or down.

Traverse even farther right, past the black streak, and follow U-bolts up to anchors.

Starting up 'Als' first 2 bolts, move diagonally right to the big crack/cleft above the tree. Up the left hand side of the cleft following MTYJ (brackets) to chains. Currently run-out above the tree.

Climb the crack to top out.

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Scramble until the bottom of the Grey Ledge.

1. Gain the Grey ledge and traverse right. Climb to the next large ledge and walk right to right of the big block.

2. Climb towards a 2m tall crack. Climb the crack. Traverse into the exposure until below an obvious short corner. Climb the corner to a ledge under roofs. Walk past the blocks on the ledge and stance at the end of the ledge.

3. Step onto the black blocks. Step right and climb to the top. It is recommended to climb only when the waterfall is completely dry, but it may be possible to climb if there is a small waterfall.

1. 2 bolts

2. 4 bolts

3. 4 bolts

4. 3 bolts

Gently scrambles up from left of the tree, heading diagonally right to easily accessible chains.

Start below the twin cracks, climb the crack/s to the top.

FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE SCOOP

This route takes a direct line up the buttress directly opposite the Golden Pitcher and immediately upstream of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG. Scramble up a short corner then traverse right on grass and belay at the first tree. This is down and left of a deep cave.

1. 8m 10 Move left and up a short groove to a tree belay in a cave.

2. 15m 10 Move left and ascend the rib to a short crack above the cave. Climb this on good holds and up a recess to a stance on the left and belay on rock knobs.

3. 8m 7 Ascend the rock knobs directly to a large ledge and tree belay.

4. 22m 7 Move right and follow the ramp to its top to a block belay.

5. 12m 8 Traverse 3m left and ascend the face on good holds to the top. Belay on block at the back.

The climb is situated on the true left-hand side opposite the second weir. Its start is 8m downstream of corner below the red face.

1. 21m 11 Climb the shallow groove keeping to the natural line which passes a small bush to a large tree. Belay from blocks above tree.

Start 1m right of the passage way on a flat block/ platform. Standing start, climb positive holds up the slab.

The climb starts from the large boulder which separates the Eel Pool and Big Pool. i.e. opposite 'Consolation'.

1. 23m 10 Climb up a steep diagonal ledge which steps up to a tree about 11m above stream bed and 6m upstream from starting point. Then ascend open book for 4,5m and 6m up face to the right of the open book to a grassy ledge with tree.

2. 22m 7 Climb a 3m chimney about 3m upstream from tree, followed by 18m up face to right of chimney to another tree belay on large ledge.

3. 15m 11 Ascend 4,5m behind belay point to the ledge. Then traverse left along ledge to tree belay at foot of pinnacle.

4. 14m 11 Climb 8m up outer face of pinnacle. Traverse 3m to right from top of pinnacle into an open book. Follow this to the top.

Commences about 15m downstream of CEDARBERG CORNER and at the right side of a very large broken, dirty triangular shaped face.

1. 20m 5 Start at base of triangle and ascend to about 2m above small tree (Ed Note: In 1939!) on right side of triangle. Traverse horizontally 4m to stance. Rock belay.

2. 20m 7 Continue on face towards apex of triangle to about 5m from the apex. Stance on right side of triangle.

3. 14m 10 Move on wide ledge to right until tree is reached by a chimney. Step onto chimney and ascend 8m. Move on wide ledge to chimney directly above former chimney and ascend 6m.

4. 18m 11 Move to right of red face above the top of the chimney. Ascend the angled recess and move over on left hand face to a small stance. Work to right around overhang and then to the top of it, thereafter following the face straight up. The pitch is perpendicular and exposed but has good holds.

Climb the obvious line of jugs.

1. [7] XXm

   The route begins where the black trunk of a liana, as thick as a man's wrist, dips its roots in the water of the kloof. It runs parallel to the root for about 6m to a ledge which takes the climber left for approx. 7m.

2. [6] 12m

   From there, there is approx 12m of rock of easy standard which is followed till one is faced by a chimney.

3. [10] XXm

   The chimney, of approx. 4m, is too narrow for normal movement and it is blocked by a chock which gives good hand-support when reached.

4. [6] 15m

   From the top of the chimney there is a further 12 to 15m of grade 6 rock.

5. [5] 15m

   Finally, the route moves to the right and reaches the top of 12 to 15m of easy grade 5 warm-red rock.