Routes in Africa for selected grade

Welcome to Level One. In your quest to unlocking the levels of the Snake Temple, this climb makes a fine introduction. Ascend the small chimney in the center of the wall and proceed to break right onto the face where fine flake cracks lead to the top. While racking up for this climb, the first ascensionists had a close encounter with a rather large and feisty black mamba when they found themselves between the dark serpent and a fleeing rock hyrax that it was pursuing.

Start at base of crack at right-hand corner of slab where there is a prominent fault. Move left-handed under edge of overlapping slab. At left-hand point of overlap climb onto wall and move back right-handed to smooth wall and chimney. Back up over chockstone boulders to platform (root belay). Delicate move onto left-hand wall and traverse until wall can be climbed directly or a swing up can be made on small block. Move left- handed to finish.

Immediately right of buttress is a large black slab. Start in the middle of this and climb slab direct to steep wall. Up this to good ledge. This ledge is great for attempting the previous climbs instead of the cave belay. The second pitch works its way up the main ridge of the buttress on easy rock to a large belay block beneath the final wall. Climb up flake and step right to small ledge below overhang. A long traverse continues rightwards (crux) keeping under the overhang until a steep wall covered in jugs allows access to the top of cliff.

Now-a-days most consider the route out of shape, but in 2005 we found a classic line which doesn't resemble the original route. I could not figure out where the original window used to be. It was a great alpine ice outing.

To reach this pleasant 5.5 layback corner, scramble down to the right (facing outward).

Further right

Alternatives to the first pitch (ending at the same belay stance as pitch one):

1a. Start a little lower to the right (facing the cliff) and join the regular route part way up. Nice climbing, but a bit run out. 100 feet, 5.5 R **

1b. Start closer to the apex and follow a rising traverse (with crack) right to join the regular route ¾ of the way up. 110 feet, 5.5

Quickly viewing the cliff from the road (before you are surrounded by children), you will observe a high point of land with eucalyptus trees at the center of the cliff base. Nkuli Dancing starts 2/3 of the way (100 feet) down to the right from this apex, directly below an old bolt.

1. Up the nice slab past three old bolts to a pleasant stance with three bolts. 100 feet, 5.4 **

2. Climb the slab above (with one bolt to the left) toward a grassy ledge. Pass the grass at its right edge and traverse back left to an awkward hanging belay with 2 bolts. (Note: expect some kids to join you at this ledge by boldly traversing across the face from the right.) 60 feet, 5.4

3. This is the crux pitch if you follow the standard route without the variations described below. Exposed traverse left, crossing a large inside corner, then straight up a face passing one bolt before a run out. Eventually step right over a grassy ribbon to an awkward standing belay with two pins. 100 feet, 5.5 R

4. Up slabs to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

Climb up or down (if descending) via rounded ledges on side of pillar.

Climb the juggy slab on the left

Sit start and climb the chimney. Top out on right hand shorter boulder.

SDS on the low flake and climb up the small arete.

Reverse NTITO

Not to Ignore the Obvious. The only problem at Topside with a bum finish! You must sit down on the block at the end before your hands or feet leave the rock! Traverse left to right.

Climb the crack to top out.

Route up and down.

Climb the slab.

Climb the slab.

Sit start and climb up juggy holds

Climb the left crack.

Sit-start and climb up diagonal crimp features.

Climb the recess in the corner. Start on good holds and continue up straight.

Sit-start with jug and climb up.

Climb the juggy crack.

Climb the easy right arete.

The easiest way up or down.

Climb the arete.

Easy dihedral.

Climb the easy wall.

Climb the easy wall.

Start with left hand sloper and right hand crimp and climb up left.

Climb the crack.

Climb the juggy arête. Note: Also the downclimb

Start as Just One Second, climb up left to the top

Sit-start on top of a large boulder and climb the juggy face.

Climb the obvious line of jugs.

Climb the easy corner.

Climb the twin crack slab.

Climb the arête.

Climb the slab without the arêtes.

Sit-start and climb up on jugs.

Climb the undercut arête

Sit-start with left hand on gaston and climb straight up.

Climb the many easy lines up the featured face

Sit-start and climb the face.

Climb the arete.

Climb the slab.

Sit-start and climb the face.

sit down, both hands on the lower hole. Top out through vertical crack

Sit start in the groove, top out.

Sit start, climb to top out.

Start in rail, long move climb diagonally right to good hold, then do battle with the bush to top out.

Climb the juggy arete.

There is a grade 3 variation that climb diagonally up left from the same start.

Sit start and climb face to top out.

Start with right hand in good pocket. Climb slab to top out.

Sit start, climb the prow to top out.

Climb the corner. More technical than you hoped...

Sit start with left-hand in a slot, climb directly up to top out.

Sit start and climb the left-hand seam.

Starting from the huge foothold, climb the slab between the arete and the crack (without using either of those features).

Climb the layback crack to TO.

Climb the big crack, from a sit-start. If you happen to own a full set of 13th century armour, then bring it along for this classic problem.

Sit-start on the lowest jug, CD to TO.

Start with hands on large block under boulder to top out.

Start with hands on jug block under boulder. Traverse right to face left of arete, top out.

Climb directly up, past overlap about 2m left of arete.

Climb right arete.

Start with both hands on large jug between 'cheeks'. climb directly up top out. Using a fist jam on this problem may be tempting, but consider your reputation...

Climb the obvious layback crack, TO.

Sit start and climb the prow.

Sit start with BH in the big layback, climb the crack and TO

Sit start with BH in the jug rail, traverse R around the corner until you can stand on the rock