Routes in Africa for selected grade

Start in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof at 5m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to the right near the top to avoid a loose block.

Start up the corner left of Short and Sweet and then follow the obvious line to the top.

The line that sticks mainly to the left of the face left of Cain.

Used to be a standard beginners route, but far too easy for beginners these days.

1. Climb the obvious left sloping crack to a large ledge with a tree at the left-hand end.

2. Climb the recess in the corner for one move and traverse left onto the clean face which is climbed to the top.

An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block, tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face.

Overgrown at present, but useful as a reference point. Climb a short steep face to an obvious break in a dirty recess. Keep mainly to the left.

Climb the obvious recess with a crack around the corner from Enema.

The gully. Now has a lot more bolts so it can be led by an 11 leader. Care still required. Better to use the bolts on the right. FA: Who knows (solo) 1991 BB: Gus(?), Clive

The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on 'Floating on the Storm'. Step back left to 'Floating on the Storm' lower-offs after surmounting the block.

The wide crack just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'.

Start below the triangular corner. Trend slightly left towards the top.

Climb up to the ledge above the bolt ladder. Not using the tree or ladder is 13. Up to the smaller ledge and stem the gap to gain the arête on the other side. Up this on ring bolts noting the (safe!) stacked blocks at top.

Traverse even farther right, past the black streak, and follow U-bolts up to anchors.

Shares the first bolt with 'Crouching Tiger', then climb up the slab.

Follows the red mark-ed bolts starting at 'Max' s finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways (eg 'Crouching Tiger'). From the 3 bolt anchors, traverse right 2-3m along the ledge then up to the next ledge and continue traversing right crossing the cleft about 2m higher than '1000000'. Continue rightward crossing the black water streak ('1000000' comes up here), then go diagonally right to near the top of the arête at 'Moaah' anchors.

The extension of MAX taking the high traverse of 'Doubt' to the 'Moaah' anchors near the arête. Clean on top rope.

Shares the 1st 3 bolts with 'Arielle'. Climb up left on the right hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m right of 'The Huffing Warthog'.

Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!

Climb the ridge to the right of SONG OF SONGS on good but far apart jugs to the top.

Start as for MUSSEL CRACKER, but tend rightwards towards a tree. Then climb up through the tree onto another ledge. Continue along ledge until possible to easily climb to the top.

Shares top anchors with RED FRED.

Start at a small jagged block. Climb the face, trending somewhat right at the top to lower-offs.

Climb the crack system next to large undercut black nose (Grandads Waltz). The start is about 5m to the left of Spiderman Face, up a small smooth open book.

Shares top anchors with The Imp. Perma-draws at top.

Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last sport route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings.

Approximately 1 metre downstream of NOT SO MUCH TO FLY AS TO PLUMMET is a broken open book leading to a chimney on the right of the sharp arete. The route ascends the book and the chimney to the top. A pleasant route although a bit chossy lower down.

1. 24m 11 Move up the open book to the base of the chimney. Gain the chimney by stepping right and up. Bridge up, bearing right as the chimney widens. As the angle eases, ascend the red face on the right to the top.

Approximately 10m upstream of FUTCH on the same side of the kloof is a very aesthetic open book 10m above stream level. From the base of FUTCH scramble up to base of open book.

1. 12m 11 Climb open book to top (pleasant but short) - from here a variety of routes led to the top.

Start 30m upstream from THE GOLDEN GATE, in an openbook formed by an undercut buttress.

1. 30m 11 Climb the right hand wall of an openbook, capped by a large overhang 20m up. Climb 10m to small tree growing on face then traverse to left side and around onto the face of the buttress. Straight up on good holds to stance with tree belay.

2. 25m 9 Climb straight up in corner to large stance with tree belay.

3. 10m 5 Scramble to top.

So called because the opening party are said to have climbed without trousers after wading through pools. Situated 18m along the traverse below POOL DESCENT.

1. 6m 6 An obvious and easy nose rises from the stance for 5m. A slightly more interesting variation is to climb a short face to the right through some branches.

2. 11m 11 An overhanging crack is climbed for 5m and at the overhang a traverse is made for 3m to the left hand corner which is then climbed direct to the stance.

3. 6m 7 Continue straight up on arete.

4. 18m 7 Slanting crack leads diagonally across the face to the right.

5. 12m 6 The crack continues across the face and is very easy at this point.

Variation: The second pitch can be turned by going round the corner on the left which will make the pitch grade 5.

The climb starts a few metres upstream from the main waterfall, at a clean corner of grade 7 standard. Above and high up to the right is the buttress, distinguished by a very prominent overhang.

1. 12m 7 Climb corner (facing upstream) to tree on loose slope. Scramble up slope to the left, under and beyond the overhang, until a distinct corner on grey rock is reached.

2. 18m 8 Climb corner to large tree.

3. 12m 10 Climb crack on right to reach a large stance and view site above the overhang.

4. 12m 11 Climb exposed corner immediately above previous pitch, starting with a delicate movement.

Commence about 14m below CHAMELEON CRACK on a ledge (well covered by a wild fig tree) about 2m above the stream.

1. 6m 11 Climb up the crack where the ledge terminates against a small buttress on the main kloof wall. Climb to the top of the buttress. From here a long smooth V-shaped recess blocked at the top can be seen over to the right. (The first pitch may be avoided by climbing the tree filled gully to the right).

2. 22m 8 Proceed diagonally up towards the recess and end at a ledge.

3. 12m 8 Climb directly up for about 5m and then bear diagonally left into a neat square crack. (An alternative to this pitch lies on the reddish wall to the left, ending also at the base of the square crack).

4. 12m 10 Follow the square crack to a ledge.

5. 9m 7 Climb up a grey face directly above the square crack to end the climb. The finish is about 3m left of the top of the smooth V-shaped recess referred to above.

About 15m upstream from LOVER'S LEAP a large buttress projects into the kloof. The climb starts in a shallow recess 5m upstream from this buttress.

1. 22m 8 Climb the recess to a grassy ledge.

2. 18m 11 Climb a series of ledges directly above, before moving up slightly right on a steep face with good holds.

On the opposite side of the kloof to PYRAMID and 25m downstream the wall of the kloof bulges into the kloof. Just upstream of this there are two large trees in the middle of the kloof. One of them leans right back across the kloof touching the bulge and the recessed crack which the route follows. Large chockstone belay.

1. 30m 11 Climb the recessed crack which narrows to chimney width for 21m where there is a large balanced block on the left. Move onto this block and climb face to ledge. Good tree belay to the right.

2. 26m 8 From the centre of the ridge directly above, climb diagonally left to tree. Climb up corner for 5m then climb diagonally right up exposed face to top.

Climb starts just downstream of ISOLATION PINNACLE. Scramble up little gully just left of the pinnacle. At base of rock face is a small pinnacle/buttress about 24m high. Use tree belay. Climb the upstream side of the pin, in obvious crack.

Note: A pleasant short climb.

Variation:

1. 20m 11 Commence on the kloof wall downstream of the pinnacle (crux at start) and climb 20m to a stance behind a small tree.

2. 20m 10 Traverse right to the gap between the kloof wall and the pinnacle. Step down and cross the gap. Traverse right easily to two-thirds across the pinnacle and climb the steep rock to the summit.

Proceed 80m upstream from the meet point to where the ground rises to being about 5m above the stream bed. A large tree will be seen at the top of a 4m cliff to your left. Scramble up left, over easy rock and roots (usually wet) to the pinnacle, which is some 40m high. The front and downstream sides are undercut and the pinnacle stands 1,5m from the main kloof wall, forming a chimney. Both of the first pitches described below start at the downstream end of the pinnacle, where the pinnacle meets the main kloof wall.

1. 20m 11 Climb in the recess, make some awkward moves over the bulge and enter the neck between the kloof wall and the pinnacle atop some large blocks.

2. 20m 10 Climb the magnificent crack running up the back of the pinnacle to the summit. A superb pitch!

Notes:

1. Most people climb only the second pitch of this route, which is superb. To reach this, approach the pinnacle on the upstream side and enter the narrow gully/chimney. Continue until the obvious corner on the pinnacle is seen.

2. To descend, jump from the ledge on the upstream side to a ledge on the kloof wall. Traverse right to a tree in recess. Scramble to top or abseil down.

The climb is downstream of PINA COLADA. It starts opposite the B-C descent ramp next to LEKKER OKE. About 15m above the path is a striking, large tree which appears partly dead. Scramble to a grassy ledge behind the tree.

1. 32m 11 Climb the blocks behind the tree for 6m like a giant stair to the bottom of a jamming crack in the corner. Climb the crack by jamming or move 2m left and climb the corner and arête. Continue to the large ledge with trees 6m higher. Climb the red face on the right of the ledge for 8m, moving 2m right to small tree and on for another 6m on steep face with good holds to the top which is 5m downstream of a 900mm white cubic block.

Note: A clean, interesting short route suitable for large groups at meets.

Diagonally opposite the black-streaked rock of SQUARE ORANGE is a grey face at water level below a shelf with set-back faces behind. [A - 5]

1. 10m 11 Climb the faint recess in the short grey face to the grassy shelf.

2. 30m 10 Move 10m right to the brown faces. Climb to a small grey pinnacle at 20m then move left over easy rock to the top.

Note: Vegetated in upper reaches. Gets progressively worse, after a good first pitch.

Start in the right-hand of the two corners mentioned in STOP PRESS. Scramble to the highest point in the wide recess and climb past some cacti behind a large block in the corner. [E + 8]

1. 40m 11 Climb directly up the corner past a tree at 12m and on through the obvious fault line to a second tree. Move left in the last few metres.

Note: Consistent grade. Lovely holds. Clean rock. Nice climb.

Starts directly opposite BITCH TO THE BOYS (which has a large bullet-shaped rock featured halfway up the crag). Start in a 5m wide square recess in grey rock with slightly overhanging brown rock above. The start is near water level. [F + 20]

1. 18m 11 Climb the left-hand corner to below the overhanging brown arête (8). Move right below this (11) and up to a broad grassy ledge.

2. 20m 10 Continue directly above to the top.

Identified by a square orange incut at top of buttress. Climb at water level to the left of some black streaks at a 4-trunked gnarled tree. [A - 5]

1. 12m 10 Climb up the small open book to the first ledge. Continue up the same fault to the second ledge and then on the grey face to a large grassy ledge.

2. 36m 11 Traverse left 10m and climb right of a hidden scooped 5cm-wide crack. Up easy rock to a steep orange face and climb through the orange square, or avoid it to the right over more easy rock.

The climb is situated on the true left-hand side opposite the second weir. Its start is 8m downstream of corner below the red face.

1. 21m 11 Climb the shallow groove keeping to the natural line which passes a small bush to a large tree. Belay from blocks above tree.

Start 5 pipe lengths up from the pipe ramp.

1. 25m 11 Climb the grey blocks to the left of the grade 6 recess of PORCO DIO. Cross that climb and enter a 5m recess to a grassy ledge. (This is a poor substitute for the adjacent appealing crack on PORCO DIO.) Traverse right onto a broad ledge to the right of the pillar which PORCO DIO skirts.

2. 23m 10 Climb the brown recess above (hard rock to the right). Move right and fight through the tree onto the right-hand final arête.

Start 7 pipe lengths upstream from where the pipe descends to stream level, and the lowest rock moves away from the pipe. Scramble up to a short upstream-facing 10m high grade 6 recess with chockstones at the top.

1. 20m 11 Climb the recess and emerge at the foot of a short corner crack. Climb the crack (11) to a large ledge. Traverse downstream and around the back of a squat pillar with a block on top. Climb a short brown corner above a tree on to a grassy ledge.

2. 15m 9 Climb a wide crack right of another pillar and on to the grey faces above moving left to the top.

Climbs the left-hand slab and faces in the steep gully between SUB JUDICE and SPHINCTER SPASM. [12 pipe lengths up from the ramp]

1. 23m 11 Climb a faint grey scoop and pull up over two detached slabs to a tree and broad ledge.

2. 22m 11 Climb in twin recesses, one with a chockstone, (take your pick) to the top.

Note: Not recommended. There's plenty better nearby.

Takes the left slanting off-width crack 5m downstream of SLIP SLIDING AWAY. [Near pipe No 30 above the pipe ramp]

1. 21m 11 Climb the wall to the left of, and close to, the off-width crack. Pull onto the wide grassy ledge above in the gully proper.

Note: It is possible to descend by abseiling from a stout tree in the centre of the gully a few metres above the grassy ledge.

Begin just downstream of the first weir, high in the recess just to the right of LOVE AT FIRST FRIGHT. [Pipe No 34 above the pipe ramp.]

1. 21m 7 Ascend the line of least resistance up the scruffy gully to the top of the tree line.

2. 22m 11 Move left and climb the crack line to the right of the grey faces which bound the left side of the recess (when facing in).

Note: Be careful rope doesn't loosen rock at the top of the gully.

Situated on upstream side of the buttress immediately upstream of the pinnacle at the head of the kloof above the top weir.

1. 25m 11 Climb follows a well-defined crack that faces the stream. Ascend the crack for 10m, then continue following crack past blocks to belay on top.

Climbs the arete to the left of TRISDIDECAPHOBIA.

1. 15m 11 After a tricky 1st move up to a tree, climb up the arete to the top.

Descent as for SNOOPY.

The climb starts below the pinnacle on the arete immediately to the right of WHOOSH.

1. 35m 11 Start 2m to the left of the nose of the arete and move right under the overhang onto the nose where there are fig tree roots. Continue straight up the arete which becomes very sharp halfway up.

The climb starts at the first 2m waterfall upstream from the meet point.

1. 25m 8 Start at the tree deep in the chimney and move out diagonally right with the aid of the tree, and just above the tree, move back diagonally left to a cubbyhole in the chimney with a tree in it.

2. 20m 11 Move out to the right for 3m then straight up the face to the top.

Starts 20m downstream from FOUR WAY JUNCTION and the descent gully. A metre square block is on the face about 2m above the start.

1. 20m 11 Climb the grey face to the right of the block and then move into the shallow groove. Climb the groove or move further left and up the easy arete. Continue to a ledge and tree below red wall with black rock to the right.

2. 20m 11 Climb the left edge of the red wall on excellent holds and continue up the shallow groove to the top.

Begins 2 to 3m right of HUEY. and ascends the obvious recess.

1. 15m 11 Gain the recess and climb this to the top of the crag.

This climb ascends a prominent arete 300m upstream from the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. The route is situated just downstream of a deep pool. A small free standing pinnacle lies just downstream of the start. Scramble up to the start.

1. 25m 11 Climb the arete passing a small overhang about two thirds up.

Commences about 15m downstream of CEDARBERG CORNER and at the right side of a very large broken, dirty triangular shaped face.

1. 20m 5 Start at base of triangle and ascend to about 2m above small tree (Ed Note: In 1939!) on right side of triangle. Traverse horizontally 4m to stance. Rock belay.

2. 20m 7 Continue on face towards apex of triangle to about 5m from the apex. Stance on right side of triangle.

3. 14m 10 Move on wide ledge to right until tree is reached by a chimney. Step onto chimney and ascend 8m. Move on wide ledge to chimney directly above former chimney and ascend 6m.

4. 18m 11 Move to right of red face above the top of the chimney. Ascend the angled recess and move over on left hand face to a small stance. Work to right around overhang and then to the top of it, thereafter following the face straight up. The pitch is perpendicular and exposed but has good holds.

Starts 13m downstream of FROG FACE (i.e. 5m downstream of OLD MAN'S CHOICE). Start inside a short deep gully directly beneath the "butterfly".

1. 30m 11 Follow diagonally left up grey ridge for 9m. Then break through slight overhang. Ascend diagonally right across grey face below the "butterfly" and move right to stance below edge of right "wing".

2. 15m 10 Climb face to edge of "wing" and move slightly right. Ascend open book to good stance. Tree and block belays.

3. 15m 11 Move 5m left onto buttress (right "wing" of BUTTERFLY) and ascend steeply to summit.

The first pitch goes up the centre of the slab forming the square back of the very large recess to the right of FROG FACE. Traverse left under overhang then up face just to right of final pitch of FROG FACE.

1. same

2. same

3. 25m 11 Continue up chimney to roof for 7m and climb out on left using good holds. Running belay on fixed piton. Continue up corner further 18m to a good stance on right with tree belay. Scramble to top.

The start is situated directly beneath STRAIGHT JERRY.

1. 9m 10 Up recess on right wall 2,5m. Traverse right around corner 2m to position directly below tree. Climb through roots to ledge.

2. 6m 10 Traverse right onto sloping slab and onto stance.

3. 12m 11 Ascend bottomless open book 12m to overhang. Scramble to top.

Halfway up FROG GULLY there is a large grass ledge. The route follows the obvious corner crack opposite the top of the first pitch of MATERNITY COUCH (cairn).

1. 40m 11 Climb crack in corner, over blocks, until crack widens to chimney. Climb from top of chimney left up into gully. Block belays. From here scramble 10m to top of gully.

Commences about 5m above the big tree opposite the lower swimming pool.

1. 25m 11 Straight up the crack starting immediately above the tree to a wide tree-grown ledge. Intermediate belays are possible in this crack.

2. 18m 11 Follow the 3m wide ledge to the left for about 11m to a point underneath a reddish coloured rock face, the upper portions of which overhang. Beneath this overhang is a ledge with a tree and about 2m below this again is the "couch" - a horizontal slit in the rock, deep, broad and level, but barely 15cm high. The pitch from the wide ledge proceeds straight up into the right hand side of the "couch" wherein the body lies prostrate and is then contorted to the left side, and out again to the face which is climbed to the ledge above, where a good belay is obtained on the tree.

3. 25m 10 From the last ledge one can climb out either right or left.

Start from same tree at bottom right hand corner of GOLDEN PITCHER CRAG face.

1. 25m 10 Follow thin indentation diagonally up right to ledge. Traverse around nose into open book, then climb right hand side of open book to large stance 6m up.

2. 15m 8 Follow chimney diagonally left to 2 small trees, then traverse right onto nose. Climb a few metres on nose then traverse back into crack. Ascend brown rock to tree belay.

3. 8m 11 A scramble up gap to right side of tree leads to slab which is climbed on right hand side.

Above 50m downstream from the LEAP OF FAITH buttress, the kloof floor begins to drop away rapidly. Half way down this decline, and just above the ever-fun slide down the boulder, there is a sandy lunch spot on the true left, with a small cave. This is some 80m above the worm-hole descent. Just downstream from this cave, there is a recess of rounded steps, reaching up to the canopy. Start 5m right of the cave, where tree roots skirt the face.

1. 35m 11 Climb straight up to enter the recess, before moving up and right to exit the canopy on the right hand edge of the recess. Carry on out into the open, and over a 2m rock band, before reaching a grove of small trees, which form the best belay available. Descend by thrashing upstream through bushes (easiest near the upper cliffs) until a small gully is found to scramble down, arriving at the top of the small waterfall just above the sanding lunchspot. There is gear just before moving onto the arête, but nowhere else.

Approximately 50m downstream of the Cedarberg meet spot is a large recess on the left. At the time of writing this up (2007) there was a small growth of what looks like prickly pear nearby. The route is on right-hand side of the upstream-side face, in a recess at the bottom of which is a 3m high rock obelisk (no too secure). A well protected route. 1. 20m 11 Climb the recess with the two cracks behind the obelisk until an overhang is reached (16m). The overhang can either be obviated by a short traverse right and continuing the ascent, or it may be tackled head-on.

Situated in a gap between the two series of red overhangs about 75m above lower swimming pool. Climb starts to right of lower series of overhangs.

1. [8] 25m

   Straight up to grassy ledge and up corner to deep crack or cave.

2. [11] 15m

   Chimney up to underneath overhang. Very thin traverse 5m to right, then up crack in rock to good belay.

3. [7] 22m

   Easy climb straight up, although more difficult route possible by bearing left.

This climb ascends the easy face to the left of 'Terminator' .

1. 20m 11 Take the easiest way up the face.

Note:

Two routes could be made up this face.

The climb as the name implies is at the bottom of Tonquani about 150m downstream of the Cedarberg junction. A few meters past a pool which occupies the kloof from wall to wall one sees a prominent prow of rock near the top of the face. The climb is slightly to the right of this feature, and commences from a wide earthy ledge about 18m above stream bed.

1. [11] 9m

   Ascend a recess to fairly large tree growing out horizontally. The pitch starts with strenuous arm pulls on a root, and then continues up the left hand wall of the recess via a shallow crack.

2. [10] 18m

   The recess becomes V-shaped above and slightly overhanging. Therefore, walk out to the right on the horizontal tree and ascend the face diagonally to the right and out of the recess. Once out of the recess, the rock eases to grade 7. A good ledge is reached below some red faces. Traverse left on this ledge to a belay above the previous stance.

3. [11] 15m

   Mantle shelf into a nook about 3m above the ledge. The left hand side of this nook consists of a large poised flat block. Continue up and to the left where there are two cracks leading to the top. The right hand one is grade 8 and the left hand one is grade 10.

Variation:

2a. 15m 19 Instead of pitch 2 continue up the recess. After strenuously working up to the top, one makes a difficult pull-up on to a ledge on the left hand side. The ledge at the top of pitch 2 is reached after ascending about 3m of easy rock. (Mar 1956 R. Davies and R Kinsley)

This climb is best located in relation to 'Hotplate' . To the left of that climb there is a smooth whitish slab about 30m long. The route initially ascends the more climbable rock on the left of the slab.

1. [11] 18m

   Ascend stepped face which sometimes offers small grips. Stance is on 60cm wide ledge.

2. [10] 15m

   Traverse right to end of ledge. This brings one to the top of the white slab. Ascend recess through the overhang to wide ledge. Tree belay.

3. [11] 18m

   Move right on to ridge. An awkward start leads to a steep section with good grips.

Climbs the obvious break immediately upstream of 'The Scream Of The Butterfly', i.e. about 5m downstream of the 'Old Man's Exit'

1. [11] 35m

   Climb diagonally right to gain the base of the break. Follow this and the immaculate smooth open-book to reach ledges.

2. [6] 35m

   Climb easily to the summit.

This climb commences about 50m below the junction of Cedarberg and Tonquani Kloofs. The route ascends the lowermost downstream of three reddish buttresses and is directly opposite a deep cleft on the other side of the kloof. On the left hand side of the buttress a recessed gully leads easily up from stream bed. Ascending this gully it becomes cavernous and closed in by the right hand wall. After a scramble of about 22m up this gully traverse out right on to buttress (8) and at a small grass ledge climb up 9m to top of buttress. From here ascend diagonally left up towards the left hand flank of buttress (10) and climb obvious recess to top (11).

The climb starts from the large boulder which separates the Eel Pool and Big Pool. i.e. opposite 'Consolation'.

1. 23m 10 Climb up a steep diagonal ledge which steps up to a tree about 11m above stream bed and 6m upstream from starting point. Then ascend open book for 4,5m and 6m up face to the right of the open book to a grassy ledge with tree.

2. 22m 7 Climb a 3m chimney about 3m upstream from tree, followed by 18m up face to right of chimney to another tree belay on large ledge.

3. 15m 11 Ascend 4,5m behind belay point to the ledge. Then traverse left along ledge to tree belay at foot of pinnacle.

4. 14m 11 Climb 8m up outer face of pinnacle. Traverse 3m to right from top of pinnacle into an open book. Follow this to the top.

1. 18m 11 Start opposite 'Lost Trail' in an obtuse angled recess. Ascend 12m to top of small buttress on the right. Then move diagonally up to the left past a flat, poised block to a wide ledge. Walk to the left to where the ledge narrows. This point is opposite 'Sepulchre'.

2. 12m 10 Traverse left along narrow ledge to crack which slants up to the right. Ascend to the top of the crack. Some scrambling is necessary to reach the top of the face.

Commences in a prominent recess starting from stream level about 9m downstream of the start of 'Tonquani Ridge'. The recess is topped by a sloping ledge with a large tree on the edge of the recess.

1. [11] 15m

   Cross the stream to rock ledge then scramble up 4,5m to commencement of crack in recess. Follow route up recess slightly to right at top of grass ledge and large tree.

2. 25m 6 Bear left up crack making for obvious recess up which the climb continues.

3. 15m 11 The final pitch goes up the chimney (watch out for loose rock) which leads to the summit.

Variation:

3a. 13 Ascend a few metres in the final chimney and then traverse right across a face for 18m. This traverse leads to an undercut buttress which is ascended until easier rock is reached at the top. (1954 H. Barker)

Commences halfway down Short Gully on right hand side.

1. [11] 21m

   Straight up on corner for 9m then diagonally up towards right to foot of recess.

2. 12m 8 Climb in the corner between slightly overhanging walls.

Begin at the front of the buttress alongside a large knobbled tree on the extreme left of the upper amphitheatre.

1. [11] 25m

   Climb 3m in a recess then move up and left onto the main buttress. Move up 5m then traverse right onto the downstream side. Climb up stepped blocks to ledge at foot of 90o corner.

2. [10] 15m

   Climb in corner passing a tree with a large horizontal bough close to face.

1. [11] 30m Start below large whitish face. Ascend right-hand recess and traverse back over left one. Ascend straight up face following slight crack line, moving left at the top to stance at break in overhangs.

Starts on a ridge to left of grass-strewn broken face, at top of krantz and on right of a series of overhanging red faces. This is about 18m to left of 'Aloe Alley'.

1. 18m 9 Up a small gully to base of a face about 5m high, thence up face to grass ledge. From here a longer face immediately above is climbed and a traverse to the left at the top of this leads to a stance enclosed by bushes to right of a red rock ridge.

2. 18m 9 Through bushes around corner to left of ridge then up to a stance below large.

3. 22m 11 To left from stance below rock. This leads to a crack or cubby hole up which the climb proceeds to the summit. Variation: (10) Ascend the face on the left side of the ridge. When this face becomes steeper about two-thirds way up, traverse right just around the edge of the ridge. The traverse entails a slightly awkward descending move. This brings one to the original route.

The climb starts in a high narrow cave 30 metres short of the first clump of trees on Fountain Gully West. Start right of 'Aloe Alley'. The climb crosses 'Aloe Alley' at the top of the first pitch.

1. 18m 10 Climb 5m to roof of cave and through small opening on to small ledges. Step right on to face and traverse 4m right. Climb into small aloe-filled recess, traverse 2m left to narrow gully. Squeeze through hole to stance on top of buttress.

2. 19m 11 Climb 5m up bulging rock face on sloping holds to sloping chimney / recess. Traverse 6m left under overhang past tree to platform. Make strenuous moves 3½ m past aloe into narrow recess. Climb 5m to stance at blocks in corner with 2 small windows in rock.

3. 23m 9 Traverse 9m diagonally left round corner. Scramble 9m up gully then 5m up blocks to top.

Start 50m west of fence from a point just right of block against the face.

1. [8] 34m

   Up slightly overhanging bottomless recess for 4m then right 12m to tree and from tree diagonally left to big ledge.

2. 28m 11 Start 3m left of two huge blocks one on top of the other. Up crack for 12m then left to tree. From tree up a few meters and then further left for 6m to stance next to tree.

3. 30m 9 Straight up from tree and then bear left following the line of least resistance to the top.

Start at base of wide crack with chockstone cap 20m to the right of 'The Lug'.

1. 15m 10 Climb crack breaking right of chockstone cap at top to good large sloping ledge.

2. 20m 11 Climb crack straddling to the top.

3. 30m 8 Climb up ridge on right of crack (now very open and bushy) and continue up over sloping bulging rock to top.