Routes in Africa for selected grade

Stand start to COW CORNER.

Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.

Climb the sloping face with tons of big jugs. Perfect for kids.

There are various fun and easy problems on the south side of the boulder climbing the well featured face.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

2 bolts half a meter down from the edge 2m right of Hakuna Coffee use the same safety bolt as Hakuna Coffee, EXPOSED CLIPPING use safety bolt. Start between 2 trees, on the right of the groove follow this or a direct variation up the salamander wall.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Right of Through the Core exit. sit start as low as possible on underclings. Move diagonally up rightwards on good holds.

Start 10m left of Woody Wood³.

1. 35m (G1 A1) Climb the groove until the crack fizzles out. Tension left of a blade to another crack and up to stance.

2. 40m (G1 A2) Climb through the first two roofs free and then into a groove. Aid up and through (6 points) and to a ledge on the right. Continue up to a ledge to belay.

3. 40m (G2) Traverse left back into crack and up to small stance in left-hand crack.

4. 40m (G2) Move up for 5m then back into right-hand crack. Continue up this to stance below and left of a tree.

5. 30m (G2 A2) Move right and up to tree. Continue up the crack free through a horrendous crumbling roof to below the final overhang. Aid through (2 points) and belay on the right.

6. 30m (F2) Traverse right about 10m then up and back left and up a crack to scrambling ground.

Note: Hard and serious with a lot of poor rock but good runners. Recommended for suicidal maniacs. Take four pegs [in 1980, what should we take today?].

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.

"A dirty, sharp, loose and grovelly crack" - Andy de Klerk

Start in a corner capped by a triangular roof

Start 2m left of the corner on a flat wedged block. Stand on top of the wedged block and head up the thin right facing corner to the roof, rail left onto a small ledge. Cut back right to a short crack (almost inline with the route start) Climb the crack to stance.

Start above and right of 'Melting Pot' Climb the left hand crack

An adventurous climb, generally on reasonable rock, that could be done without a bivouac by a fast party. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp you arrive just above a broad saddle between the main cliff and a small outlying hill. Head up on faint paths directly up to pale, easy-angled slabs at the foot of the face. Scramble up the slabs, traverse L into trees, start about 10m further L, on a shady ledge below a R-facing flake crack.

1. 55m. 5a. Up the flake that works its way up R-wards. Near top of flake a medium-large cam may be placed. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out L on to the face and start a heady climb up and L to a block on a ledge, here a weighted sling and/or small wires offer some protection. Climb first L-wards then directly up a poorly protectable slab aiming towards a lone palm tree and excellent belay. Very poorly protected, sustained pitch, mainly on excellent rock.

2. 40m. 4c. Continue directly up passing several trees to broken grassy ledges, flake belay.

3. 55m. 4b/c. Up wide grassy, slabby corner R of belay for 10m. Move R below roof then up R-wards towards a small tree. Up to slabs and across these, poor protection, to chimney. Up this on poor rock and grass to jammed block belay.

4. 40m. Move up then R onto a slab, which is followed R-wards, with no protection, to a shattered rock corner. Up this steeply to ledge with spike belay.

5. 45m, 4b Climb up to the L, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a short steep black wall with pockets for both protection and hands. Move up L to ledges. After a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up and L to tree belay in grassy bay. A short 20m. scramble through grass leads to the base of the walls left of a great open diedre, possible bivvy site. Block belay.

6. 45m. 4c Approach the wall at a small shelf and traverse L 5m. Make your way up and L to the obvious tree.

7. 30m. 4b. Continue up and slightly L to tree on next ledge system below final headwall.

8. 30m. Scramble L to ledges with small trees, possible bivvy site.

9. 35m. 4a. At L end of bivvy ledges step down and L onto wall to gain good holds, up these onto a slab then R facing corner and the top.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski )

Approach the deep chimney through dense bush. Move left to a secondary chimney which peters out swiftly.

1. 4b (20 m) Climb the chimney, move right onto a slab and climb this to a belay on a ledge.

2. 5a (20 m) Move left to a crack, flanked on its left side by a simple slab. Climb this and surmount the capping overlap on its far right hand side. Move easily to the top. Descent: Scramble/climb to the top, from where an aerial is visible, from which a 4x4 track leads easily back to the road.

Likely has been a repeat ascent of Brothers in Arms.

Repeating groups should be able to complete the climb without an overnight bivouac. (Editors note – One person who has climbed it twice bivvied ¾ of the way up both times)

1. 170ft 5.9/HVS 5a/18. Start up an obvious flake that works its way from left to right. There is limited protection at the top of the flake, unless you have very large Camelot’s (#5-6). Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out left on to the face and start a heady climb towards any protection you can find. There are a couple placements for micro cams or TCUs, but they are sparse. Work back right on a poorly protectable slab climbing aiming towards a lone palm tree. A perfect vertical crack above the tree provides solid placements for a gear anchor. Quite cheeky.

2. 175ft 5.7/ Severe 4c. Work up and right from the tree anchor on easy but flaky climbing that works its way towards obvious trees. Potential crack placements exist, if willing to excavate, but the climbing is easy enough to pretty well run it all the way to the trees. Proceed to a second group of trees. Work right towards to a blocky shelf that provides decent protection. Take caution not to launch any of the loose blocks on this section. Continue up from the shelf slight right to a small flake; be cautious of smaller loose blocks below flake. Traverse left of flake to anchor on the obvious blocky shelf.

3. 160ft 5.7 Severe 4b/c. Move up and right onto a steep slab, which is followed, with no protection, up to the right until a move across right gains access to a chimney. This is followed to a large jammed block belay.

4. 120ft 5.7/Severe 4b. Traverse right from the belay at an incline on loose shattered rock, little options for decent protection, reach the left hand side of the main wall. Then go up the vertical scree until you belly flop onto a flat area with an obvious rock for safe belay.

5. 170ft 5.8 /Severe 4b. Climb up to the left, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a small wall with pockets for both gear and hands. Move up left and after a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up left to belay.

6. 140ft Scramble. Move up from belay onto easy ground. Which is followed up and left through vegetation to a large flake belay in the middle of the left hand wall of the huge diedre.

7. 170ft 5.8/ Very Severe 4c. Approach the wall at a small shelf and proceed to traverse left 15 feet. Direct your gaze up the vertical wall and indulge your eyes in the glory revealed, protection & solid holds! Make your way up and left to the obvious tree and large boulder. As this is the first pitch to not crumble in your hands, take your time to relish in the climb. For those seeking exposure, grasp onto one of the many solid pink crystallized quartz clusters and glance downward from this vertical face to the 1000 feet view below.

8. 170ft Scramble. Move up left of the mini over hang and then pick your way up and left towards the tree lined corner of the bivvy site.

9. 120ft 4a/b. Exit bivvy ledge on the left out onto the slabs. Traverse up and left on short rock walls and grassy ledges to below final steep rock wall. Balance up on good holds onto unprotected slabs above, which are followed to a good belay on a large block. Summit.

Pitch 1

Blocky start moving left towards sheer face.

Make fun moves up rail on steep wall using crack on right side until you move over top to platform.

Terrifying on FA thanks to wobbling death bloc which has now been kindly removed by second.

Pitch 2

Make relatively easy moves up, trending left using crack on right for gear.

Move over top into “The Dance Arena” and belay at a convenient spot to your liking.

Pitch 3

An unlikely route takes you left over some challenging smooth slabby climbing where you need to earn you gear. Could be described as a tad run out.

Trend left and then move up to below overhang and traverse right on large ledge. We would advise moving around first corner to larger belay area to set up better for pitch 4.

Pitch 4

Straight up from belay with multiple options available depending on your preference for moisture.

Continue straight through even wetter section until you come over ledge to 4th class section which takes you to the top. Options to belay at top of crux or higher up.

From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

On the left side of this cliff, and slightly lower than the other part is a slab leading to an obvious corner capped by a roof. Easily up slab to corner which is reached by climbing an initial bulge (crux). Move up to where a hand-traverse leads leftwards to finish. Originally an aid route which finished aiding through the overhang above on pegs.

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

1. 15m. Up crack to traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit. The second pitch is very photogenic!

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

This route is a 8m boulder problem at the top of a nondescript slab, which is located some 8m left of the start of Cemetery Corner. The lower slab leads easily to the first bolt, and the route continues straight up past a second bolt to the top. Near the top it is difficult staying clear of Tombstone. Worth doing but the climb would be far superior with one less bolt.

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

Start 5m left of the Tramlines gully below a steep wall with a scoop above. Climb wall for 4m then delicately into scoop, and up to small flake. Stand on this with difficulty (crux), and up to good holds. Continue to ledge. Directly up from ledge to abseil bush. Or step down and right across ledge and ascend wall some 2m right of big slash in cliff.

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

From cave belay move up left to brown streak in groove. Climb this direct to steep brown-coloured wall. Up this with ease to overhang. The overhang is split by a prominent narrow ledge, which is gained from the left. Bolt. Move up trending rightwards to top of the cliff.

Start at foot of face to right of main slab in open groove.

1. 26m. Climb to the cave belay.

2. From the cave belay. From belay move up leftwards to horizontal break and traverse 3m to foot of steep wall. Climb this direct to recess just below overhang. Traverse left 2m to a point below obvious large rightwards pointing flake, and surmount overhang (crux) just right of this. Step left when possible and up to top of cliff.

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

1. Climb the middle of the buttress right of rambler for 50 m, stepping briefly into chimney on right to bypass bushy ledge at 30m. Just below roofs step right over chimney to sloping ledge and belay below overhanging hand crack.

2. up hand crack and continue straight up wall to top of pinnacle staying left of pruner