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The Prow

  • Grade context: UK
5

Description

At the same level as Summit Cliffs, capped by an overhang with a prominent tree and having an undercut base this crag offers several routes.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the far left-hand end of the crag facing the gully on rising ground. Step right then up the arete.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

5m left of Leaper, behind tree. Slightly right and straight up a slight depression.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

Start about halfway along the face where a sharp pointed flake stands away from the face. From the tip of the flake step onto the face and directly up to the left of a shallow ‘V’ groove.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

  1. 15m. Five aid moves up crack lead to tension traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

  2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit.

FA: Iain Allan & B. Thomas, 1973

At the right hand end of the face at a flat boulder. High step to gain the edge of the undercut wall, traverse left and up to belay at foot of the chimney. Finish as for Velindra or via chimneys.

FA: R. A. Cooper & A. Brodie, 1971

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