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Morning Wall

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 3

Description

About 150m half-left from the South Picnic Tree and on the right-hand side of Archway Crag is a large open red corner with its top blocked by an overhanging boulder.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

On left-hand nose. Climb wall direct and move right below boulder to finish.

Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish.

Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

FA: Pete O'Sullivan & Ron Corkhill, 1981

Climb the face between Millstone and Capstone.

Worth the effort if you’re already wasting your time on Morning Wall.

FA: Alex Anderson, 5 Dec 2013

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