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Tambarare Cliff

  • Grade context: UK

Description

A rock outcropping a bit apart from the main Lukenya areas, with a few fun easier climbs on good juggy rock, and one very hard line.

Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for a daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa paybill no 880926. Account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagles Nest Face). If this is the case its normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate and through a climber whatsapp group.

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Approach

The easiest is probably to go right before the road turns left to Nemesis and follow the track down and then up left past a dam, turn right at the Mulwa campsite (recognised by some bandas), then follow tracks on the right to the top of the cliff and good parking spots. It's easy to walk down the left of the cliff (when facing it) to the start of the routes.

Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad. No bolting is allowed without a special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Enjoyable route on the left-hand end of the cliff. Start on the slab below an obvious crack. Go up the slab and onto the ledge above the crack. From here don't follow the crack on easier ground to the right, but go straight up via a flake which offers a perfect jug, then finish left of the cactus forest above to the still-living (as at 2021) fig tree belay above.

FA: IanT & Sven van Enckevort, 3 Oct

To the right of Msitu. Take the slab up to the overhang above. Climb straight over this on steep but good holds. From here keep to the right of the big crack and go as directly as you can up to the dead (as at 2021) fig tree above, finding holds slightly more on the left for the final bulge. Slightly thin on pro in the middle section, but always on good holds and rock, and some gear can be found, with easy escapes possible.

FA: Sven van Enckevort & IanT, 3 Oct

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