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Tambarare Cliff

  • Grade context: UK

Description

A rock outcropping a bit apart from the main Lukenya areas, with a few fun easier climbs on good juggy rock, and one very hard line.

Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

The easiest is probably to go right before the road turns left to Nemesis and follow the track down and then up left past a dam, turn right at the Mulwa campsite (recognised by some bandas), then follow tracks on the right to the top of the cliff and good parking spots. It's easy to walk down the left of the cliff (when facing it) to the start of the routes.

Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Enjoyable route on the left-hand end of the cliff. Start on the slab below an obvious crack. Go up the slab and onto the ledge above the crack. From here don't follow the crack on easier ground to the right, but go straight up via a flake which offers a perfect jug, then finish left of the cactus forest above to the still-living (as at 2021) fig tree belay above.

FA: Ian Thorpe & Sven van Enckevort, 3 Oct 2021

To the right of Msitu. Take the slab up to the overhang above. Climb straight over this on steep but good holds. From here keep to the right of the big crack and go as directly as you can up to the dead (as at 2021) fig tree above, finding holds slightly more on the left for the final bulge. Slightly thin on pro in the middle section, but always on good holds and rock, and some gear can be found, with easy escapes possible.

FA: Sven van Enckevort & Ian Thorpe, 3 Oct 2021

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