Lukenya's premier cliff. The Castle embodies everything that is great about Lukenya climbing... position, quality, exposure, and concentrated difficulty. No other cliff in Kenya has captured the imaginations of past generations of Kenyan climbers as this one has.
Recommended routes: 'Princes Street' — E2 5b 'Committee Wall' — V.S.
©Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).
©Reach Edinburgh Castle by either bush-bashing up from the top of Window Buttress or driving up to the Lukenia campsite on the top, and walking ten minutes along a good game track to the top of the cliff. The start of the climbs can be reached by a 50m abseil (directly above finish of Golden Anniversary or Committee Wall) or a walk down.
©Abseil anchors direct above the finish of Committee Wall and Golden Anniversary
©Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.
©The first attempts to climb Edinburgh castle caused such a scandal in the Mountain Club that the climbing fraternity broke into two factions during the late 1950*s and early 60's. One party attacked the East Face while the other attempted the South Face, each daring tile other to produce the route of quality. Rumours abound but it is said the East Face (Committee Wall) party won, to be followed shortly afterwards by the South Face team, who produced a more technical.... "Gateway to a new era of climbing in Kenya". The story goes that neither party ever spoke to the other again!
Controversy continued in 1961 when a different team, who possibly in an attempt to deflate the decidedly unfriendly atmosphere prevailing in the Mountain Club, suddenly produced a third route on The Castle (Anniversary Climb) which turned out to be a fictional creation. Despite this it somehow found its way into the 1973 third edition of the guide book.
The year 1967 saw more serious trespassers taking an interest in The Castle. Ian Howell probed the area around the intimidating overhangs which lie between the South and East Faces. His attempt ended, however, long before reaching these overhangs culminating in a a 15m fall which persuaded him to call it a day. Next came Iain Allan who successfully pushed the route into the cruxy little wall between the overhangs prior to embarking upon a 30m flight which ended several feet above the ground. Several weeks later Allan returned and took Princes Street through to its end.
Edinburgh Castle lay silent for twenty-one years, when an older and wiser Iain Allan returned in 1989, and with Magnus Karlsen produced two routes of quality: 'Traitor's Gate' and 'Waterloo'.
©Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)
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