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Boulder

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 58

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

100m slightly right from the South Picnic Tree and almost directly behind it, a grey crag with a large prominent boulder on top. The climbs usually start with a slab and finish with a steep wall.

Recommended routes: Boulder Original—D. Boulder Five—S

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

Park at picnic tree. This is the closest crag to the tree, visible from there with a big boulder on top of a dark grey cliff. Walk about 50m along a trail slightly to your right (facing the hill) to get to it.

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Descent notes

Walk off the left side of the cliff.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the foot of a crack to the right of grey buttress-like flake. Continue straight up crack. Tree belay far back.

Start behind bushes at right-hand end of small overhang, where there is a small pigeon-hole 1.2m up. Climb to ledge, then move left-handed and ascend final wall. Belay 6m back to boulder.

Start 2m to right of pigeon-hole in Boulder Two on smooth slab. Direct ascent to ledge and then to an almost-detached flake 2m above on wall. Continue direct to top. Belay 6m back on boulder.

Start at point of slab below scoop 2m up. From here take easiest route moving slightly right-handed and keeping a few feet right of the broken corner. Move left to finish. Belay at flake 5m back.

Start 4m to the right of Boulder Original in middle of very smooth black slab. Climb direct to top, aiming for top of boulder against skyline. Belay on spike of boulder 6m back on right.

Start on the right-hand corner of crag from point of almost-detached flake. Keep generally to corner of crag, climb crack to top.

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Sun 16 Apr
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