A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. Morning Wall 5 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Morning Wall 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -1.488471, 37.069888
description
About 150m half-left from the South Picnic Tree and on the right-hand side of Archway Crag is a large open red corner with its top blocked by an overhanging boulder.
access issues
Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).
ethic
Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Millstone
On left-hand nose. Climb wall direct and move right below boulder to finish. | VD | 10m | |||||
| 2 |
Capstone A
Ascend crack. Traverse left under overhang, turn back right at point of overhang to finish. | VD | 8m | |||||
| 3 |
Capstone B
Same start as for Capstone A, but alternative finish (Very Severe) is to traverse right at the top of the crack. | VS | 8m | |||||
| 4 |
Mighty Atom
Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock. FA: Pete O'Sullivan & Ron Corkhill, 1981 | E2 5c | 16m | |||||
| 5 |
Bosstone
Climb the face between Millstone and Capstone. Worth the effort if you’re already wasting your time on Morning Wall. FA: Alex Anderson, 2013 | S | 8m | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| VD | Capstone A | 8m | |||
| Millstone | 10m | ||||
| S | Bosstone | 8m | |||
| VS | Capstone B | 8m | |||
| E2 5c | Mighty Atom | 16m |