Ascents in Asia as Flash by Ian 溫翊恩

Thanks to LuoYe for crux beta. Happy to climb the boulder crux smoothly! However, between final bolt and anchor I was drawn in by a good hold, and compelled to messily climb the left face. A few moves were fairly left of the final bolt, close to the next route - but in reflection looking at the line, I feel OK with this. With no clipping hold for the anchor I reached the literal top of the mountain, where the white limestone crown is weathered slippery smooth. The anchor was right beside me at knee height, but so difficult and sketchy to clip! On the way down I tried the obvious alternative finish, and found it much easier. Go figure!

It isn’t a good day of climbing without a sandbagged 5.9.

I feel that I should take a “development flash” on this one; I onsighted before the bolts were in, while marking optimal bolt placements, and then sent first go on the bolts. The start offers cool hand jams, and the crack at the top is awesome.

What a striking line! Follows a lovely crack the entire way up, cleaving the karst in half. Good holds and good rests the entire way.

Peculiar, unique crux. Creativity and three dimensional thinking were needed, even with flash beta from friends.

Awesome horizontal climbing, pumpy and three dimensional.

The most climbed 7a in Laos for a reason - a wonderful route. Flashed on supremely detailed beta.

Delightful to climb with thorough beta from a friend. Excellent holds and moves.

Very steep terrain, huge threads and juggy features the entire way. Very cool start, very cool finish.

Final moves are cool, engaging.

Wonderful, very cool movements.

The crimps are small, but nicely incut!

Varied and interesting climbing. Logging here for a ‘variation’: at the final bolt we inadvertently made a hard and exposed traverse right, to the adjacent anchor.

I benefited enormously from the detailed beta of several friends. Every hold and movement was as I anticipated from the ground, and I climbed through the crux statically. I really enjoyed how the climbing transitions from slabby to steeper.

Tough to read. Happy to flash this on very detailed beta, quite enjoyable. Pumpy for the grade, and really wore me down for the rest of the day!

I managed to flash on pre-hung draws with excellent, detailed beta from a friend. Climbing flash with super strong support is very fun!

Harder with wet hands and feet. Crux at the end was a little tenuous.

Rather hard starting this line directly off of the boat. Tricky boulder problem.

A nice pocket crux, thin footwork across the crack, and a controlled ledge jump to finish.

Engaging boulder problem right off of the water, followed by good face climbing. Some dusty, crumbly rock in the middle. Fairly pumped when I reached the exit jugs for the jump!

First moderately strenuous lead since fracturing my big toe a month prior; painful but rewarding! Unusual, tricky crux tests one’s confidence. Far too soft for 11d, but an excellent line nonetheless.

The same sort of superb, crimp heavy face climbing which distinguishes most of the routes here. One bolt presents a rather ballsy clip, but the fall would be safe. Flashed with abundant beta advice; great fun.

Single cranking crux, fun and easy climbing thereafter. Most of the reported choss seems to have come off, not too bad anymore.

Awkward, physical start in the crack, with good face climbing above. I’ve seen it climbed, and might have touched it two years ago? I feel ethical in claiming a flash.

Climbs right of the bolt line. Heady clip at the crux! Flashed while hanging draws.

Burly movement, several opportunities for solid hand and fist jams. You can layback if you so prefer, but make no mistake, this is a crack route!

Powerful ceiling flip. With good beta I was able to execute exactly what I envisioned from the ground, albeit with a bit of intensity. Absolutely not my style of climb; perhaps a bit soft?

Smooth movement through tufa, jugs, pinches, one or two pockets, and several excellent rest points. The cave rest is very cool!

Excellent climbing, engaging movement throughout. I needed a little bit of pump management in some sections.

Thin, with impeccable friction and rock quality. The orange limestone here is as aesthetic as it is wonderful to climb on. Definitely returning to this crag for its harder lines.

More top notch face climbing at this crag, devoid of polish. Loved the little crux puzzle.

The crux was very smooth for me, but as usual in Tonsai I had to thrash through the jugs!

Endurance on good holds leads into a bit of face climbing. Excellent friction and features.

Thin slab, delightful balance and commitment.

A bit longer, good mixture of holds, cool in the middle.

Last route of the day, comfortable and interesting.

Crimps into a deadpoint, short and powerful.

Some thorns stabbed me during the topout, otherwise great.

Open hands require some focus, but the topout is secure.

Good action and a smooth topout.

A fairly complex, finger intensive boulder problem defines this route. Much help from friends’ beta supported what felt like a strenuous flash.