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The Keep All Sport climbing 9 routes in cliff

9
FR
6b6c7a7b7c

Seasonality

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Description

Great vertical face climbing. Maybe the best rock quality on the Phra-Nang peninsula. Well worth the long approach.

Approach

Walk all the way to the right end of Railay East bay and continue on the small beach, passing 'Muay Thai' and 'One-Two-Three'. About 50m left of 'One-Two-Three' there is a hole on the right with a pile of big rocks. Scramble up and follow the trail for a few meters until you see 'Duncan's Boot' on your left. Pass the crag and follow the trail, scrambling up some rock until you reach the steep defile, where 'Jungle Gym' is located. Scramble up to the end and use the anchors to rap down about 10m. 'The Keep' is on your right. There are some old routes on your left, belonging to 'Jungle Gym South Face'.

Be careful after rain, the approach trail gets very slippery.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
6b ★★ Gengis Bond Sport 32m, 15

Great 3D climbing with good rests up a series of stalactite features. It's long, make sure you have enough rope and tie a knot in the end of your rope. 13 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

2
7b ★★ Tongue Thaid Sport 32m, 2, 14
1 7a+ 20m
2 7b 12m

Climb as one pitch.

  1. 6 titanium bolts, 2 slings

  2. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

3
7a ★★ Lom Mon / Cyclone Sport 29m, 13

Watch out for the crux - photo says it all... Beautiful long run afterwards. 11 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

4
7c ★★ Bottom Feeder Sport 23m, 2, 8
1 6b 18m
2 7c 5m

6b for 5 bolts to the first anchor. Two more bolts to second anchor. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Alex Catlin, 1996

5
6c ★★★ Nut Cracker Sport 25m, 7

Great technical face climb with multiple small cruxes. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

6
6c ★★ Aspirin Sport 28m, 11

Starts just left of the big boulder. 10 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2006

7
6c ★★★ Medusa's Lover Sport 26m, 10

Sharp start leads to an interesting mid section and some fun tufa action. Starts on top of the big boulder. All titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

8
6c ★★★ Babo Does Thailand Sport 28m, 11

The best line at 'The Keep'. Not hard but stella climbing the whole way. All titanium bolts.

Set: Jim Yoder & Marlene Ford, 1996

9
6b ★ Monkey's Bum Sport 20m, 7

First climb as you enter 'The Keep'. Move up slimy tufas, then continue up. Awful anchor placement. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

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6b ★★ Gengis Bond
6c ★★★ Nut Cracker
7a ★★ Lom Mon
7b ★★ Tongue Thaid

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Nicola taatjes at The Keep - Nutcracker at The Keep

★ Monkey's Bum 6b - 20231223_155529.jpg

★★ Lom Mon 7a - IMG_8183.JPG

★★ Lom Mon 7a - IMG_8183.JPG

Thu 27 Jul
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