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One-Two-Three

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Description

Top quality rock with many easier graded routes. Warning, this crag gets extremely busy with climbing schools. Do not come here between 9 am and 4 pm if you don't like crowds.

Approach

Go all the way to the right side of Railay East bay. Pass the 'Muay Thai' sector right on the small beach. Behind some the big boulder are the first routes of 'One-Two-Three'.

Routes

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Grade Route

The leftmost line on 'One-Two-Three', just left of 'Samiboy'. 1 titanium bolt, 3 slings.

Set: Wee Changrua, 1997

2 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Wee Changrua & Selee, 1997

7 titanium bolts, 2 slings

Set: Ymer Alber, Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Stefan Kalen, 2010

Directly left of 'Kratoy', climbing the left side of the cave. All titanium bolts.

Set: Bjoern Alber & Nantawan Alber, 2011

The original line starts inside the cave, moving out right towards the big hole. Rebolted further to the right, climbing up straight on the right side of the cave. Titanium bolts and slings.

Set: Alex Wenner, Somjit Nigwari & V. Rachsang, 1993

Lefthand second pitch of 'Kratoy'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Variation of 'One Thousand Knives'. Shares the start, then further left to a separate anchor. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Second pitch of 'Kratoy', climbs straight up. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Righthand second pitch of 'Kratoy'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2006

5 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: B. Chamber, L. Reeves & V. Rachsang, 1993

Second pitch of 'We Sad'. Starts a little bit up right on a separate belay anchor. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Roland Larcher, 1995

All titanium bolts.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

All titanium bolts. Share start with Make a Way.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1991

Shares the start with 'Big Shit', then veers right about halfway up. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Confusion.

Set: Cyro Glad, 1996

Short, crimpy moves to a generous finishing sequence if you hit the moves right. Titanium bolts.

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992

Shares the start with the popular guiding route 'King Cobra' and Orientales. The traverses and continues left to the anchor of 'Make a Way'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Ralf Tenbrink & Louis, 1992

Excellent long route that seems to get very little traffic. Start as for 'Confusion' and King Cobra, but then straight up after the traverse to the left. All titanium bolts.

FA: Francois Burnier & Dominue Potard, 1990

Guiding route through the corner. It hardly gets more polished than this! Titanium bolts. Share start with Confusion and Orientales.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

1 5 13m
2 6a+ 17m
3 6b 7m

Only P1 and P2 can be climbed. P3 is on old expansion bolts and climbs on loose rock.

  1. Used for guiding as a short easy single-pitch climb. 4 titanium bolts.

  2. Link this pitch with P1 for a 30m single-pitch climb. Skip the intermediate anchor about halfway, which has been set up for 'Beginner'. 7 titanium bolts.

  3. Do not climb! Old protection and loose rock.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

Set: Dean Saydom, 1990

Easy variation of 'Massage Secrets' P1 and P2. Shares the same start, then moves right to jugs and up to big ledge halfway up P2 with an additional intermediate anchor. Used for guiding. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Local Thai climbers, 2011

Short climb up the steep face. Titanium bolts.

Set: Unknown, 1997

Another short and easy line used for guiding. Titanium bolts.

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Another guiding route. Titanium bolts.

Set: Dean Saydom, 1994

Farthest climb to the right on 'One-Two-Three' wall. Not rebolted with titanium. 3 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Tex Rock Climbing, 2007

The boulder opposite of the right side of 'One-Two-Three' wall. Used for guiding, very busy during climbing school hours.

All routes rebolted with titanium bolts.

Warning Fixed Gear: Blue sling is worn out and needs replacement!

Share anchor with Be Careful

Set: Sash Nakuda & Brendan Robertson, 1994

Share anchor with Long Live the Herm

Set: Jack, 1996

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1991

Three old routes located about 30m left of 'One-Two-Three' wall. All on rusty old expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

1 6a 27m
2 6b 28m

Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1999

Set: Wee Changrua & Sarut, 2006

Set: Rit, 2006

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Tue 30 May
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