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Happy Island All Sport climbing 13 routes in cliff

13
FR
6a6b6c7a7b7c8a

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Description

Nice location on the small island in front of Phra-Nang beach. Shady all day, but only accessible by foot at low tide. Too bad almost all routes have old rusty protection and cannot be climbed until rebolted.

Approach

Walk to Phra-Nang beach. At low tide, walk straight to the island about 150m in front of the beach. The wall is right in front of you. At high tide, take a longtail boat, then walk back at low tide.

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Routes

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1
6c ★★ Waiting for Donkey Kong Sport 49m, 3, 13
1 6c 12m
2 6a+ 17m
3 6b+ 20m

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ian Turnbull & J. Beverage, 1995

2
6a ★★ Don't Worry, Be Happy Sport 25m, 7

Starts with 'King Fisher', but goes straight up the shorter anchor. 6 old slings, 1 glue-in bolt. Replace slings if you want to climb this.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

3
7a+ ★★★ King Fisher Sport 30m, 13

Climbs 'Don't Worry, Be Happy', but veers right before the last clip. Maybe the classic on the crag, but needs rebolting. Last rebolting 2008, but only stainless steel glue-ins, which cannot be trusted anymore. 8 bolts, 5 slings.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

4
8a ★★★ Land of Smiles Sport 52m, 2, 15
1 7a 24m
2 8a 28m

Only first pitch rebolted with titanium (5 bolts, 3 slings). Second pitch has rusty expansion bolts.

Set: Joe Picalli, 1992

5
7a+ ★★ Coral Soul Sport 25m, 5

Alternative second pitch of 'Land of Smiles', but also rusty expansion bolts.

Set: Joe Picalli, 1992

6
8a Gecko Blaster / Happy Project Sport 13m, 5

Old stainless steel glue-ins. Needs rebolting.

Set: Joe Picalli & Ian Turnbull, 1992

7
8a+ Violent Brain Fever Sport 30m, 10

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ian Turnbull, 1995

8
6b+ ★★ Happy Thailand Sport 25m, 10

Needs rebolting. Old stainless steel glue-ins. Share anchor with 1st pitch of Razorback.

Set: Mario Waser & Peter Hachler, 1997

9
6c+ ★ Razorback Sport 35m, 2, 10
1 6a 25m
2 6c+ 10m

First pitch rebolted in 2000, but only with stainless steel glue-ins. Second pitch expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted! 1st pitch share anchor with Happy Thailand. Share start with TV Route.

Set: Duncan, 1994

10
7a ★ TV Route Sport 40m, 2, 14
1 7a 27m
2 6a+ 13m

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share start with Razorback.

Set: Jack, 1996

11
6b+ ★★ Jungle Boogie Sport 25m, 9

Rebolted in 2008, but only with stainless steel glue-ins. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Stefan Piskurek & Markus Wiesenfarth, 1998

12
7a+ ★★ Galette S'Abstenir Sport 27m, 9

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Pee Mai.

Set: Alain Dudoignon, 1995

13
6c+ ★ Pee Mai / New Year Sport 27m, 9

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Galette S'Abstenir.

Set: Pascal Clementi, 1995

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6a ★★ Don't Worry, Be Happy
8a ★★★ Land of Smiles

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