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Happy Island

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Description

Nice location on the small island in front of Phra-Nang beach. Shady all day, but only accessible by foot at low tide. Too bad almost all routes have old rusty protection and cannot be climbed until rebolted.

Approach

Walk to Phra-Nang beach. At low tide, walk straight to the island about 150m in front of the beach. The wall is right in front of you. At high tide, take a longtail boat, then walk back at low tide.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 6c 12m
2 6a+ 17m
3 6b+ 20m

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ian Turnbull & J. Beverage, 1995

Starts with 'King Fisher', but goes straight up the shorter anchor. 6 old slings, 1 glue-in bolt. Replace slings if you want to climb this.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Climbs 'Don't Worry, Be Happy', but veers right before the last clip. Maybe the classic on the crag, but needs rebolting. Last rebolting 2008, but only stainless steel glue-ins, which cannot be trusted anymore. 8 bolts, 5 slings.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

1 7a 24m
2 8a 28m

Only first pitch rebolted with titanium (5 bolts, 3 slings). Second pitch has rusty expansion bolts.

Set: Joe Picalli, 1992

Alternative second pitch of 'Land of Smiles', but also rusty expansion bolts.

Set: Joe Picalli, 1992

Old stainless steel glue-ins. Needs rebolting.

Set: Joe Picalli & Ian Turnbull, 1992

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ian Turnbull, 1995

Needs rebolting. Old stainless steel glue-ins. Share anchor with 1st pitch of Razorback.

Set: Mario Waser & Peter Hachler, 1997

1 6a 25m
2 6c+ 10m

First pitch rebolted in 2000, but only with stainless steel glue-ins. Second pitch expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted! 1st pitch share anchor with Happy Thailand. Share start with TV Route.

Set: Duncan, 1994

1 7a 27m
2 6a+ 13m

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share start with Razorback.

Set: Jack, 1996

Rebolted in 2008, but only with stainless steel glue-ins. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set: Stefan Piskurek & Markus Wiesenfarth, 1998

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Pee Mai.

Set: Alain Dudoignon, 1995

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Galette S'Abstenir.

Set: Pascal Clementi, 1995

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Fri 26 May
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