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Amphitheater Mostly Sport climbing 11 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: FR
11
FR
5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b7c

Description

Old crag close to 'Diamond Cave', behind the Railay Cabana Garden Bungalows. Sharp and loose rock, protected by old slings. Just added for the sake of completeness, but not a good place to climb.

Approach

Follow directions to 'Diamond Cave'. At the T-junction in front of the Phutawan resort, turn right and follow the road bending left towards Railay Cabana Garden Bungalows. Pass the reception and follow the trail to the left, passing in front of the bungalows. Continue on until you reach the crag.

From Tonsai, best is to take the jungle trail passing 'Mama's Chicken'. After leaving the forest and passing a small meadow, you'll end up at Railay Cabana Bungalows.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
6c Electric Crack Trad 25m

Leftmost line. No protection, use trad gear.

Set: J. L. Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

2
6b+ Electric Crack (Variation) Mixed trad 35m, 3

Veers right about halfway of 'Electric Crack'. 3 old slings in the upper section. Bring trad gear!

Set: J. L. Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

3
7c+ The Prow Sport 18m, 4

Shares anchors with 'Cazzi Vostri'. Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L. Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

4
7c+ Cazzi Vostri Sport 18m, 4

Shares anchors with 'The Prow'. Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

5
6c+ Paradise Sport 25m, 8

Share start with Estata una Fortuna and Amphitheater. Take the left line to the lower anchor. Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

6
6b Estata una Fortuna Sport 28m, 5

Variation of 'Paradise' and Amphitheater, veers right towards the end to a higher anchor. Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

7
6a+ Amphitheater Sport 20m, 8

Shares the start with 'Paradise' and Estata una Fortuna, then right just after the start. Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L. Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

8
6a Sans Toi Sport 20m, 4

Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

9
5 Sans Toi (Variation) Sport 20m, 4

Starts a bit further right for an easier start, then joins 'Sans Toi'.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

10
6a Thai, Mon Amour Sport 35m, 7

Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

11
6a Cabala Sport 35m, 7

Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Set: J. L Jubert, E. D'Angelo & M. Ghibhaudo, 2002

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