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The Defile Mostly Sport climbing 13 routes in cliff

13
FR
5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b7c

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
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Description

Shady location in a canyon left of Phra-Nang beach. Amazing views over the beach.

Approach

Walk to Phra-Nang beach and continue left along the beach at low tide. Scramble up some boulders to enter the canyon. The 'Defile Wall' is to your right. To reach the 'Defile Exit', continue through the canyon. Climb up into a big cave on your left to find the belay ledge.

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Guidebooks

Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Defile Wall Back to contents

Routes on the right wall as you enter the defile.

2
7c ★ Crystal Prison Sport 40m, 20

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Todd Skinner & mike tupper, 1993

3
7b ★ Thank You, Sophie Sport 10m, 4

Starts left below the big boulder, just left of 'Krabi! Krabi!'. Titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner & Ted Young, 1993

4
6c ★★ Krabi! Krabi! Sport 30m, 12

Starts just left below the big boulder. Titanium bolts.

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

5
7b ★★ Allo, La Terre? Sport 40m, 3, 21
1 6a+ 15m
2 7a 15m
3 7b 10m

Shares the start with 'Mai Pen Rai', then traverses left, crossing 'Krabi! Krabi!' and passing the anchor of 'Thank You, Sophie'. Old expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

6
6a+ ★★ Mai Pen Rai / Never Mind Sport 25m, 9

Starts right off the boulder. Share start with 1st pitch of Allo, La Terre?. Crux is right at the start. Careful, a lead fall can be dangerous. The upper half is an easy cruise towards an amazing view over Phra-Nang beach. All titanium bolts.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

7
5 Jungle Fever Sport 20m

Old route? Not listed in the guidebooks.

Defile Exit Back to contents

A little bit further down the defile, starting from a belay ledge behind a big cave.

9
6b+ ★ Baboon's Lagoon Sport 9m, 3

Warning Fixed Gear: Stand

Titanium bolts.

Set: Ilja Bangma & Joost Blom, 2000

10
6b ★ Baboon's Ass Sport 12m, 5

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Frank Dicker & Volker Schoeffl, 1990

Set: Ilja Bangma & Joost Blom, 2000

11
6b ★ Monkey Gone to Heaven Sport 12m, 5

All titanium bolts.

Set: Sash Nukada & Robbie Williams, 1995

12
6b Toni's Mind Top rope 12m

Right of 'Monkey Gone to Heaven', sharing anchors. No bolts, toprope.

Set: Rob Cooke, 1996

13
7a+ ★ Khao Pat Gai / Chicken Fried Rice Sport 12m, 5

Rebolted with titanium, but bad bolt placement. Crux unprotected!

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

14
7b ★★ Kum Jai / Worry Sport 15m, 6

All titanium bolts.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

15
6b Kum Jai (Variation) Sport 12m, 5

Climb 'Kum Jai', but then go left to the anchors of 'Khao Pat Gai'.

Set: Francois Burnier, Dominique Potard, Dominique & Dominiqu Potard, 1990

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6a+ ★★ Mai Pen Rai
7b ★★ Kum Jai

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★★ Mai Pen Rai 6a+ - PXL_20230317_063134307.jpg

★ Monkey Gone to Heaven 6b - At the crux

Tan_yongwei on ★ Monkey Gone to Heaven 6b - PXL_20240328_053118601.jpg

Thu 27 Jul
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