Routes in Asia for selected grade

Approach is a bit of an adventure, and especially since it is seldom climbed.

Gear: 60-meter rope, 14 draws plus anchoring gear.

One of the few bolted routes in Bangalore, which has both the visual appeal and provides for quality climbing.

P1: 5.10b. 30 meters. 12-14 + 2 bolts

Delightful pitch, with crimpy start, and then some nice moves on jugs and crimps. Unlike what you would find in the slab town of Bangalore.

P2: 5.11d. 30 meters. 12-14 + 2 bolts

First half is similar in nature to P1, with one mildly overhanging section. The second half just after the roof turns into yet another slab fest. In the words of Sandeep Maity, it is the first time, he had to use his hands to ‘smear’ at the same time as his feet!

P3: 5.10c. 30 meters. 12-14 + 2 bolts

The first half till the slab is again delightful moves, then it turns into the usual slab climbing on crimps and tiny pinches. Less intimidating slab than the P2.

Exit Rap or Top out. If topping out, additional anchor station exists, after another 20 feet, angled right. But you could simply walk further back and hip belay your partner up.

Route credit: Karthik Vijayakumar, Sunny Jamshedji, Amit Manikoth, Subhash Sundaravadivelu, Nimalan Duraiswamy, Abhijit, Ram, Mohit Oberoi. 2018.

FFA: Bharath Gowda & Deepu Gowda. Bharath has some quality FFAs around Bangalore, including at Raogodlu, Avathi, and Golladhani Konda

The crux is at the overhanging off-width section. Then, the unprotected but easy chimney.

Gear: A single rack upto #6 BD cams. If you have doubles of the wider cams, would be helpful.

P1: 5.11R. 5.10 C1. 35 meters. 0 + 2 bolts.

Start on the slab below the crack, from mildly left, and connect to the crack.

The moment you hit the crack; the grade begins to creep up. Fists for a bit, and then the overhanging section turns to off width. Imagine that combination! Overhanging off-width. Not a fun experience. But we aided past the section, until the crack opened up and becomes a chimney.

In 2018, Sunny added couple of bolts for the anchor station, at the end of this pitch.

P2: 5.6X. 35 meters.

Not much to protect, but frankly, in a squeeze chimney you aren’t going anywhere!

For exit, top out, jump over the ledge to angle left, and around and down the ridge.

This crack saw a first ascent in Dec 2017. Ben Fisher and I got on the route but aided past the overhanging section where it widens to double fist wide.

Left of Louvre, apparently, a stiffer 5.11ish route that was climbed as a top rope route from the tree that marks the end of the Louvre first pitch.

Philip Coquard & Dominic Danard.(1989)

East facing high ball, towards the eastern side of Turahalli. As you go up the trail from the north, the moment you see the electric poles. Head down or to the east. If you have hiked upto the temple, you have come too far up.

In 2013/14, four bolts were placed on top of this high ball. Attempts were made to chop off and destroy the bolts. Two are still usable. You could use this to top rope, or lead using #4, #5 & #6 pieces. The top section is too wide for #6. So mild run out.

Was sent on lead, as recently as in 2017 by Aravind Selvam. Earlier free ascents were done by wedging chock stones inside the crack.

Gear needed, a rack, all the way upto #3 or #4. No wide gear needed. Doubles of #1, #2 & #3 would help.

An obvious crack, with first 18 feet of really hard climbing. Sunny ‘bammed’ past this section, climbed the 5.10c diagonal crack, and continued on the 5.10a crack, with one anchor station in the middle.

A rap station was established about 40 meters off the ground and requires double ropes to exit.

Route credit: Sunny Jamshedji. Supported by Sohan, Narayan, and Karthik.

Sunny established top anchors on top of what was suggested as the top out for Innocent route. Turned out to be not the route.

Finger Crack / Seam / Slab

This impressive dome is asking for free ascent! The section up until the end of the seam is very stiff.

10 meters to the right (south) of Holy Crack.

The finger crack/seam radiating for 25-30 feet, and then plain slab for another equal distance.

For Aid of the crack, pieces smaller than the Black Totem or Black and Blue Alien needed. A set of micro-nuts.

Facing: West

Anchor: 20- or 25-meter rope and fist and hand-sized pieces in the crack to the left, and the tree to the right (or a thinner crack closer to the edge with a blade piton).

Natural Anchor: Trees & 40-meter rope.

First explored for aiding until the seam by Dave Gates, Sohan, & Amrit. June 22, 2022.

FFA: Saurabh C.

Start as for EK and keep going above ledge. Overhanging sustained and exposed.

FFA: Shwetank Kumar

Offwidth

An epic lead by Amrit Appadan supposed by Iniyan Sivaneri bumping up #5 and #6 for a fair distance.

Gear needed, two odd pieces. #.5 and #2 or #3 of BD cams at least.

From the end of the first pitch of the Meghaduta traverse, or at the of The Bean Stalk route, turn right, go past the mid-sized boulder sticking out of the crack under the roof, and where the crack turns into a fist sized (after about 15-20 feet from the bolts), reach for the roof.

A single bolt protects the transition to the roof. Thereafter, if you look to your left, after another 10 feet, a bolted anchor station.

Exit: Rapping off from the anchor station requires 70-meter rope, and the roof lip is not friendly to the ropes. So, a better option is to walk off.

Route by: Sohan, Ferdin Sylvester, and Kamalesh Thigulla (Mar 2019).

Three-pitch line, currently with top bolts.

Will eventually be bolted up for lead.

About 60 odd meters to the right of route Street Hawk.

1p (5.8|45m) 2p (5.7|25m) 3p (5.10c|33m) 4p (5.9|23m) 5p (5.10d|22m) 6p (5.9|20m) 7p (5.8|40m)

1p (5.8|40m) 2p (5.7|25m) 3p (5.10a|30m) 4p (5.11a|30m)

1p (5.9|32m) 2p (5.10a|23m) 3p (5.9|20m) 4p (5.10a|18m) 5p (5.10c|20m) 6p (5.11a|30m) 7p (5.11a|20m)

1p (5.11c|18m) 2p (A1|40m) 3p (A2|20m) 4p (5.8|25m)

1p (5.8|10m) 2p (5.10c|28m) 3p (5.10*|30m) 4p (5.11*/A0|22m) 5p (5.10c|40m)

Take off on the jug, and then the feature that was useful to make moves further broke.

The line on the west face of the Zen Garden boulder, facing the Kanakapura Road.

Sustained grade-appropriate climbing with moments of respite. First to the second bolt is a tricky slab move. The crux from the third to the fourth bolt ix involves reaching the second rail separated by a distance of four-five feet . Fourth to the fifth bolt, offers spicy technical moves above the bolt. Rest of the route continues to be interesting, but at a lesser grade than the lower half.

Anchoring gear: 10-foot length of cordage for natural anchor and a single bolt.

Exit: Using the TATs at the top of the boulder to the east.

FA: Rachit Sanghvi, October 8th, 2022. Route by: Sohan and Charan, October th 6 , 2022.

A finger and hand crack that runs horizontally to the right and then connects through a series of horizontal cracks to the top

Easy to protect, stiff climb

Aided my way up and then attempted to project

Exit: Mid-way through to the right (east), a tree allows you to rap off back to the base. Tree on the west face as well.

Rack: Doubles of #.3 through #.75 and nuts of similar size or below. Preferably off sets.

Anchor: Cracks and tree (Halfway up to the right)

Natural Anchor: Tree

Stiff crimpy first 20 feet and then couple of cuxy sections to the top out.

Rachit Singhvi figured out the moves.

Same top-anchor as Angulimala***

Chimney & Traverse

Immediately to the north of the King Swing boulder.

The chimney for the 6 odd meters, starts on a slab, and then quickly becomes mildly challenging. Possible to protect with a #6 cam (Wild Country), and then a finger sized crack on the back wall of the chimney, to protect before transitioning to the traverse.

The first half of the traverse is relatively simple, with a featured slab for the feet. The protection is with finger and double-finger sized pieces. Nuts will work. The crack is flaring, and deceptive from the ground level. One odd crux to move over the slab, while using the under-cling on the crack.

Part-way through the traverse, the overlapping tongue over the crack dips, and the crux section of the traverse begins subsequently. This is where the Ghorar Dim crack touches the feet. After this ‘tongue’, the crack widens to small-hands to hand-size.

This is the crux of the entire route, for next dozen odd feet. Doubles of double- finger sized cams or nuts. Green and purple BD cams, that is.

From around the corner, anchor on to the tree. A hand-crack in the corner leading up to the top out, or exit from the tree.

Rack: One #6 or just run it out in the chimney. And then finger & hand-sized pieces upto the yellow BD cam. A set of nuts. Doubles of green and purple BD cams would help with the crux.

Anchor: Mid-route station in the crack, and a tree around the corner when the traverse ends.

Route by Sohan and Amrit Appaden. May 29th, 2022. Aided the second half of the traverse.

Overhanging finger crack & then Hand crack on the slab

The boulder west of the Bar-Stool boulder. The boulder looks as if it has been sliced in half, diagonally. The lower part of the boulder is vertical or overhanging all around it, and then the upper section is a 30-foot long slab, gaining in height from south to the north.

Two crack lines facing on the lower section facing south and the east. The line facing south is the line being referred to here.

Overhanging finger

The upper slab section has three cracks radiating out and connecting to the top. The far-right (east) crack ends half-way up. The far-left crack is filled with grass currently but offers the best protection when the grass is dug out. The overall grade of the route is defined by the lower section, so does not mater which line is taken on the slab. But helps with the exit, as it currently involves down- climbing.

Rack: Fist-sized cams and below. Couple of finger-sized cams.

Anchor: Couple of stout boulders sitting on the edge forming cracks below them

Exit: Down-climb or leave-behind Tats. No tats have been left behind currently.

Left of the above line.

Currently not bolted for lead, as awaiting for the holds to settle or flake off.

Similar style of climbing as above, ‘gym-style’ overhanging terrain.

Route credit - Charan H.

The traverse from right to left, along the crack, and top out through the Decepticon line. Creative placements in the crack for the traverse. Vertical crack is well protected.

The crux is the traverse section to connect to the vertical crack.

Rack: Hand-sized pieces and below.

Top Anchor: Since a traverse, a top-anchor that would connect the entire traverse might be complex. However, a top anchor from atop the boulder could be setup using small pieces, or just pink-point as your project the traverse, with pre-placed gear in the crack.

FKA: Aalok Bharadwaj pink-pointed on, Dec 11,2021.

Project

The crux is after the take-off, getting back into the crack, and then over the corner. Thereafter, the climb mellows down.

The take-off can be protected with a small nut.

Rack: Finger sized nuts to #3 cam. Full rack to climb and build an anchor.

Natural anchor. Possible with a long rope, around the base of a climber with thick trunk (Sneezewort or Cotton Milk Plant) all the way at the top and way back.

The boulder evidently attempted to be quarried provides for a crack, that runs diagonally. The crack is formed by the outer rock overlapping the inner boulder , starts as a finger crack and widens to fist and half size towards the top.

Mildly overhanging and lacking in footholds, the crack eases up only after the crack turns vertical, and flares wider to allow some foot jams.

Rack: Finger sized cams all the way upto #4 BD Cam-sized pieces.

Top Anchor: Cracks that allow finger sized and hand-sized gear. Best to use tricams to avoid the cams getting bent.

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

P1: 2 bolts

P2: 17 bolts 11d A0

P3: 1 bolt

A0 5.11 Gear 00-1 TCU, triple 1, doubles 00, camalot .3 to 4, quadruple .3, doubles .4 to 1. Traditional anchor at tree. Climb Through the Looking Glass, A0 by pulling on the rope and continue climbing the long crack to the tree.

hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill.

Aid 难度：5.8/C1

2020.8.19周鹏Free了这条线路，用了23个塞子。Free 难度：5.11+

第一段为Lollipop棒棒糖,5.8,20m,传统保护点

P1: 13 bolts

P2: 7 bolts

顶部可靠树木下降，需双绳60米

The last pitch is runout slab to the top.

线路位于 '红米线' 和 '儿童节快乐 Happy Children's Day' 之间。

2010年5月由Torsten&Christina（陈家慧）打顶。后Christina出事，为了纪念Christina，Torsten以及众多岩友一起完成了该线路的开发。

1. 5.11b/c, trad, Torsten

2. 5.10b / A1, trad, 小河

第二段与 '儿童节快乐 Happy Children's Day' 第二段前半部分重合：

★★★ 断线的风筝 Broken Kite 5.11b/c A1 R - 断线的风筝.jpg

详见，盗版岩与酒