Routes in Asia for selected grade

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

Sustained, and top part needs cleaning.

P1: 5.10B. 20 meters, 6 + 2 bolts.

The first pitch starts with a traverse, left to right, and then heads up straight. Sustained 5.10b and can be a ‘reachy’ problem for folks under 5’.8”. Suggested to use a 24” alpine draws on the second and third bolt to reduce the rope drag due to the traverse.

P2: 5.7. 35 meters. 6 + 2 bolts.

The second pitch eases up considerably.

P3. 5.5. 35 meters. 6+2 bolts. With a 70-meter rope, it is possible to connect both the pitches, and with a strong climber, you could also skip some bolts.

Route credit, Dini and team. Early 2014.

Sustained, and good route. Well bolted.

7 bolts/crack + 2. Crack takes #1 & #2 cams.

About 30-40 meters to the right of Broomberg.

The crux is just after the 7th bolt. Stay right of the bolts.

Route credit: Dini, Prani & Seema. 2017.

Starts under a horizontal crack and move left to clip the first bolt. The climb runs along the edge of a fold in the hill. So, while the route is a slab, the consequences of a fall, will put you squarely over the edge.

One of those routes, engineered to be more interesting than it would have been if the bolts had been shifted a few feet to the right.

Route by Narayan Pai & Sohan Pavuluri, FFA: Sohan Pavuluri

Good moves all through.

Crux 1 : from the 3rd to the 4th bolts, slab move.

Crux 2 : sustained at the headwall from the 8th to the 13th bolt. Pinch & crimp, good movement and a mantle will see you through. Each bolt is a crescendo of series of cruces.

Route credit: Sohan (TR soloed & rap-bolted subsequently) in Jan 2019

FFA: Neil Warrington

This and the next two routes start on a ‘flake’ or a boulder jutting out from the main face, with the crack running around it.

Start below the crack, either use the crack to the right (without bolts), or go on the face with two bolts, and then onto the slab.

Crux at the start of headwall. Split wide, toe in, grab the pinch, and dyno to the ledge. Crux two, delicate route finding just before the penultimate bolt.

Watch for the nettles type of shrub at the base to the right. Besides the quickdraws for protection, wear long pants and sleeves, and also carry some anti- histamines.

Route credit: Sohan & Vinayak Malla. Jan 2019

FFA: Vinayak Malla

As you hike up to the sport routes from the north, a large boulder at the base of the hike with an off-width crack facing north.

Starts with fists and quickly turns into an off-width. At the crux takes series of #4 cams (3/4 of them, and then a couple of #5, and then a #6.

An aided ascent in July 2019. No free ascents as yet.

The line bang in the center of the face, facing the Kanakapura road.

High first bolt, appropriate for the grade. Crimp-fest on slab.

Well-protected with four bolts.

Route by Shyam Krishnakumar & Sohan. FA: Sudhir Pawar. November 9th,

2022.

Face/slab climb requiring some route-reading.

Route by Pranesh M., Rajesh B. & Nagesh

If walking along the trail, the line may not be visible, as it is facing west.

Climbing grade for what is essentially a bouldering line but could be climbed as trad by protecting with an intermediate nut, and a BD cam #2.

Rack: A set of nuts, and optionally a #2 BD cam

Anchor: None. Hip belay or counter-balance belay.

Route credit: Sohan and Kiran Kallur, July 11th, 2021

To get here, proceed on the goat trail towards Banyan Tree Pillar, and keep right of the fork. Circle around the hillock, for a few hundred feet, climb over the old fort wall, and the route starts about 40 feet post the wall.

P1: 5.10b. 20 meters.

Starts off on a right- to-left diagonal crack. Takes intermediate to cams upto #2. The pitch one ends on a ledge.

P2: 5.10b. 30 meters.

Two lines at this point. The right-corner easier line is part of the ‘To Bee or not to Bee’.

Follow the left-corner crack. Thereafter, it goes over a short slab, and then broken rock, until you are facing the famous crack that defines Khoday Neer for next 25 feet. The crack line goes at 5.7 grade but is an exposed section and the most remarkable part of the entire climb.

Rappel station to the right, Paul Zeltner leading the Khoday Neer with Jacob Jo belaying. Summer of 2015. about 10 feet.

FFA: Mohit Oberoi & Dini K. (1990)

The part of the chimney on the west face. Relatively easy grade, and yet an exhaustive movement, if not used to the squeeze-chimney climbing techniques.

The squeeze-chimney crux is after 15-odd feet, the squeeze through the narrowest section. A dozen feet of this, and then the face to the right, and then back to the chimney to top out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan, & FA, Sohan, Nov 4th, 2022.

Sunny Jamshedji climbed this line in summer of 2016 and connected back with Khoday Neer's thin crack at the top.

Per him, “Protects with a BD #4, if I remember correctly. Climb through the ‘cave’ under the left crack.

Belay from the ledge and then traverse right to meet up the other route that goes up the flake.”

Immediately left of Jumme Ki Raat. Face climbing.

Anchor: The trees above. Long anchoring ropes needed to get the master point overtheedge. 30-or40-footpiecesofcordage

To access top of this route, either climb the routes to the right, or hike around from the left.

Anchor: The tree is a little more than a juvenile at this time. Possible also to use the crack to the left around the boulder as one more leg of the anchor.

Per Mohit Oberoi. “The route "adventures of cyhric joseph" can be seen very clearly here... the "thin" crack " on the left of the huge off width seen in the center here. it traverses from the right to the blocks / ledge seen in the center and traverses to the tuft of grass and then straight up the crack. seemed like 5.10? then.”

第二段需使用PETZL PULSE 8mm、12mm进行攀爬

Crack

This impressive high boulder with a crack that starts in the middle of the boulder and then radiates out in multiple directions, with a ficus tree growing out of the crack to the right.

To access this boulder, the quickest way is by the way of driving up to the temple, from the east, and hiking over the plateau and down through the Tank Plateau. 15-minute hike from the temple parking.

Alternatively, for some warm-up, access through the Middle Earth plateau after scrambling up the slabs, through the valley between the Flyby boulder and the Jumme Ki Raat chimney, turn left, and up the slope from directly past the Flyby boulder. This high boulder is located about 50 meters east of the afore mentioned boulder, up the slope. From Stalin’s farm, 20- or 25-minute access.

The take-off is the crux. Thereafter, the grade eases up. •Betavi •Other lines: Aside from the main line that goes directly up, there are four other possibilities. To the right, after the tree, one traverse along the lower crack, or climb past it and along the diagonal crack. Third line; to the left, after the tree, at the horizontal crack, traverse left. The fourth line is more interesting potential. Left of the crack, from below the ledge, through a traversing crack, over the slab, and back into the seam to connect to the horizontal crack. Piton to protect the seam, possibly.

Facing: West

Rack: Fingers to hands.

Anchors: Crack that takes fist sized pieces.

Natural Anchor: If you can access the top through the (currently overgrown) gulley from the south, tree and some boulders.

Exit: After topping out, walk across to the tree and rappel off it. The gully to the right after the top out, is over-grown.

FKA: Shyam Krishnan, Suma Rao. 1990s. The current name provided by Shyam in Oct 2021.

Line rediscovered and documented on June 16th, 2021 by Sohan, Shyam Krishnakumar and Kiran Kallur. More than a rediscovery, correctly the route was stumbled upon, climbed, and then reconciled subsequently as having been climbed in the 1990s based on the old images. The sense of history!

Since the rediscovery, the loose block of rock inside the crack was dislodged.

Crack

Similar start as that of the Shyam’s Vajra Line, and then traversing right, under the tree, through a series of diagonal downward facing cracks, radiating right.

Two optional finishes here. Either left through the exposed slab, or right to the ledge.

To the right onto the ledge, or straight up along the slab, or left no great options for top anchor. The ledge to the right has a small gash that can accommodate a tricam and a small finger-sized cam. Alternatively, exposed moves on the slab to the left from the last piece of pro in a shallow crack formed by a feature overlapping the face, which gets you to the top-out crack of the Shyam’s line.

Rack: Same as needed for the Vajra Line

Route courtesy and FKA: Sohan and Nikhil Fernandes, Sep 22, 2021

The two obvious single pitch cracks below the fort wall, to the left of TBONTB are Cane Toad and Bombs Away.

Thin crack in the corner. Single pitch, up to the tree. Exit off the tree.

A Mohit Oberoi route

1p (5.10a|30m) 2p (5.10b|40m)

On the east face of ‘the Big Slab’.

The big slab is also top ropeable long slab of 30-40 feet, with about four easy slab routes. The route on the east face is now covered by a huge tree. The top has large boulders or small cracks to create a top anchor.

Route opened by Mohit Oberoi in late 1980s(?).

One of the more delightful long routes in Turahalli.

1p (5.4|20m) 2p (5.11a|30m) 3p (5.11a|28m) 4p (5.10b|35m) 5p (5.10a|15m) 6p (5.10a|18m) 7p (5.10b|22m)

Crack and Face

20 meters to the north-west of Jumme Ki Raat section of routes

The name apparently refers to the Paragliding tradition at Yedumadu (source, V.Murthy).

Crux is the take-off through the roof crack over the cave, rest of the crack is exciting too, and then the unprotected slab to the top out. Betavii

Exit: Scramble left (east) over the bridge of boulders

Facing: North

Rack: Full rack from finger to fist sized pieces

Anchor: Under the two boulders on the top. Fist and hand sized pieces under the right boulder, and finger sized pieces under the left.

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: Sohan, supported by Vikram Murthy & Kiran Kallur, July 20th, 2021.

FA: J.K.Nair, Harshavardhan, Dattatreya & Kamalesh (Jul1983)

Located 20 meters to the north-east of Flyby boulder

Hand-stacks and fist-stack jams!

Betaviii

Exit: Plan to take a 10-15 feet cordage to leave behind as TAT, if the old TAT is degraded. No walk off; abseil or downclimb. A 10 mm rope with a rappel ring was left behind in April 2021, for the exit.

Facing: South

Rack: Off-width Gear, BD cams, #4 through #6. A small nut can go in the crack to the left after about 10 feet.

Anchor: Cracks and boulders at the top. Large hexes can be used to protect through the gaps at the base of the boulders.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Amrit, April 2021

Bolts likely need replacing. Hand bolted route.

Far right of Innocent routes

Route by Philip Coquard & Dominic Danard (1989)

Offwidth.

Crux within the lower 18 feet and then a scramble through the gulley. Top out through the face to the left or top out on the ledge to the right.

Betax

Exit: Walk off from the right (west)

Best time: Till noon or post 4 pm.

Rack: Off-width gear including #4 and #5 BD cams.

Anchor: Tree on the ledge to bring up the partner, or the crack to the left above the face to top rope. The crack takes small pieces, finger to finger and half sizes.

Natural anchor: Difficult, but not impossible.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Kiran Kallur. June 26th, 2021.

140 meters of technical climbing, 100 odd meters of lower 5th class scramble

The first 90 meters of the route is the obvious inverted L-shaped crack that goes diagonally, from left to right, and then turns into a roof, on the north face.

Gear: A double rack upto #4 BD cam. #5 & #6 cams are optional. Sections that might accommodate #5 & #6 are easy for the grade and can be run out. Triples of fist sized cams. 70-meters rope, if planning to exit from the first pitch, or the third pitch. Else, 60-meter rope if topping out.

P1: 5.10cG. 35 meters.

The well protected crux at 15 meters for about 3 meters, just from the point where the finger crack expands into fists. The face is smooth, and further slippery because of Guano runoff, with fresh bat shit all around. Series of #3 cams and a #4 cam, and run out the offwidth.

There is one 100-kg boulder just after this off-width section, wedged to the side. DO NOT PULL on it. If you could, help remove it to make it safe for the future parties. I did clean a lot of other similarly wedged rocks, but this I overlooked, and it is shaky.

Rest of the route eases into a 5.7-5.8 section till the first tree for anchor.

P2: 5.7G. 35 meters.

From the tree, 15-meter vertical crack till the next tree. Some 5.6-5.6+ jungle climbing through the root system till the tree.

Well protected crux, just after the tree.

Five more meters to the roof, and then the obvious crack turns right. Easy traverse (5.2-5.4) with little to protect in the chossy crack.

At 35- or 36-meter mark from the P2 anchor station, the crack evolves to being solid, and can accommodate fist sized cams. You may need a couple of #3s and a #4, or even a #2 to build an anchor. Within hearing distance from the previous anchor.

P3: 5.6+G. 20 meters (35 meters to the optional exit station).

Follow the crack to the right, through the choss of the crack, you will exit the roof and find two bolts for the anchor station on the slab.

From this point, you could traverse another 15 meters at the same level and find the rappel stations for DIM Some route. Will need 70-meter rope to make three pitch rappels to the base.

P4: 5.5/6X. 50 meters.

Alternatively, if you prefer to top out rather than exit from P3, cut diagonally across to the tree line. Aim for the largest tree to the far right. For a 5.5-5.6 R or X rated line.

The most positive placement you will find on this 50-meter pitch is a #4 BD nut. There are some thinner cracks that might take ball nuts. A shitty horizontal crack system will take finger sized cams, but if you fall, it will pull off the rock above it.

But easy climbing. Hold on to your sack and push through.

P5 & P6: 5.4. 100 meters.

From the tree, and the ledge, it is another two rope lengths of 50 meter each to the top out. Angle slightly left. You will hit the pilgrim path that leads you down a steep trail, protected by railings.

Exit: Hike down along the pilgrim path. And hike back to the parking spot about a kilometer around the base.

The route was created over three days, starting in May 2019, and completed in a final push in June 2019. On the first rain-forecast aborted day, Karthik started on the route, and then I took over for the first pitch. The next weekend, Griffin and I alternated for the next two pitches under the roof. We returned the following week, as we wanted the rush of topping out, and pushed all the way to the summit.

We eventually did the route in four pitches of technical climbing, and two rope length scrambles

Route credit: Sohan, Griffin Ernest & Karthik Vijayakumar, supported by Jayanthi Kuru-Uthumpala (May/June 2019)

The far left-side bolted line, that eventually connects to the crack after the ledge, but deviates and follows the line to the left of it is a delightful line.

Start in the stem-chimney to the left or the north, and go around the corner to the face, and to the ledge, and eventually the bolts to the top. Grade kicks up a notch after the ledge. The crux is leaving the comfort of the ledge and committing to the seemingly run-out bolts.

Route credit: Sohan & Amrit A. FA: Sohan (LR Soloed). September 25th, 2022.

Same start as Stirred Not Shaken, and then at the top, slightly stiff headwall. 5.10ish.

A dramatic route that requires some creative rope work. Or use double ropes.

The second high boulder north of Chagara. About 12-13 meters at its highest point.

This key section of this line is a traverse on the north face of the boulder, and then the unprotected traverse to the right or climb diagonally along the bolts to the top.

Rack: Finger-sized pieces.

FA: Sohan, with support from Amith BV., Charan H., & Amrit A. August 17th, 2022.

First 20 feet includes a 5.10b/c technical crux. The first overhanging bulge which comes up at the 20 odd feet mark is actually more benign than it looks. The next 20 odd feet reminds of you famous Bangalore slab climbing.

The next overhanging bulge is 5.11aish if you are under 5'10", which requires you to get reach a crimp over the bulge to pull yourself up. But an alternate line for the shorter folks is to go further right of the bolt and traversing back to the main line over the bolt.

The official grade is considering that it is possible to escape the direct crux move by traversing to the right.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Susanne Wangert, Satish Venkatchaliah & Suma Rao. FFA: Sohan Pavuluri.

Two versions. One using the chimney, and the other avoids the chimney. If using the chimney, the top-out is the crux (5.10a). If using only the face, the crux is between the first and the second bolt, about 5.10c/d moves.

If not topping-out, the grade is 5.8.

Delightful line; requires all the respect it deserves, else will spit you out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan. Sep 25th, 2022. FA, Sohan. Sep 28th, 2022.

P1: 5.10c. 25 meters, 8 + 2 bolts.

The takeoff is the crux. If the start feels harder than the 5.10C, that is probably because you may have not got the beta. Not a straightforward move. The grade eases up progressively after the takeoff, in increments of a grade.

P2: 5.7. 16 meters. 3 + 0 bolts.

Traverse right on the ledge towards the chimney, after pitch one. Pitch two ends on a massive ledge. Anchor using the boulders on the ledge and bring up the second. Walk towards the right to exit, or continue route number three (Mastaan), which is to the left side of the ledge.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri & Suma Rao. FFA: Susanne Wangert & Benjamin Ochner.

The west facing side of the Black Lightening boulder. Mildly overhanging with solid holds. The route starts from atop a boulder, radiating right for the first dozen feet, and then directly below the anchor.

The line is quite unusual for Yedumadu, in that it is overhanging, and has jugs for holds. Sharp as they maybe, still jugs. Second bolt to the anchor station has potential for decking the boulder below, if the belay is not efficient.

Route credit, Charan H & Sohan. November 30th, 2022.

FFA: Saurabh C.

1p (|30m) 2p (5.10b|30m) 3p (|40m) 4p (5.9|20m) 5p (|m) 6p (|m) 7p (|m

Seam, finger- & hand-sized crack.

Hike north of Indudala Chimney for about 50 meters to locate this boulder, with at least two known free climbing lines, and potential for a few more. Also, one could find shade during the afternoon, just below the route.

Creative placements with especially small gear in the first half before the piton, and then it still doesn’t let up. Heady line for lead.

Originally lead on ball-nuts and the slings around the chicken heads (one of which broke off subsequently), the line now has a piton after about 15-18 feet (at the same level as where the first of the original chicken head used to be).

Facing: West

Rack: Small to intermediate sized gear. #2 & #3 sized ballnuts or equivalent sized nuts and litte more head and control to make the passive placements stick.

Anchor: A strong single point anchor could be created with double cordage, or a couple of nuts or cams could be added.

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: TT Niranjan and Shyam Krishnakumar, 2019.

FFA: Shwetank Kumar

1p (5.10a|25m) 2p (5.8|40m) 3p (5.9|20m) 4p (5.10b|45m) 5p (*|30m)

Hand to Off-Hands crack.

The hand crack gradually widens to an Off-Hand size (wider than fist but narrower than the Off-width size).

Facing: North/West

Other lines: Couple of top ropeable lines to the right, and outside of the crack, one using the crack as the arete, and the other, going far right, and along the corner arete. To the east, where one could exit from the tree, a soloable line through the center (the base doesn’t seem to accommodate crashpads), or an exposed scramble from the left of the tree.

Rack: To protect the line, #3 & #4. Or Hexes. Perfect crack for the hexes. The Off-hands size of the crack at the crux is too big for a #3 and too small for the #4. Metolius #9 fits better. Or use a #3 and bump it up before running out the crux.

Anchor: Hand sized cams to #3 cam (doubles of #3 or Hexes).

Natural Anchor: Difficult, but possible.

Exit: Rappel off of a tree to the east. (The exit from the east is boulderable line, but mildly exposed, can also be scrambled from the left of the tree)

FKA: Sohan & Amrit, nd July 2 , 2021

Offwidth

An epic lead by Amrit Appadan supposed by Iniyan Sivaneri bumping up #5 and #6 for a fair distance.

1p (5.9|45m) 2p (A0|45m) 3p (5.9|20m) 4p (5.10b|45m) 5p (*|30m)

Finger crack and crimps

Bouldery start to the finger crack, and aesthetic movement define this line.

Grade appropriate sustained climbing along the crack and with the crimps to the right.

The placements are as exciting as the climb itself. A couple small to intermediate (preferably offset) nuts in the crack (DMM Offsets number #7 & #9).

Facing: south

Rack: Small to hand sized pieces.

Anchor: best in the crack at the point where it ends at the top out. Else, one #4 inside the cave, around the boulder to the right, and a piece for directional to the left.

Natural anchor: None. Hip belay stance possible.

Route credit & FKA: Sohan, July 17th, 2021 with support from Amrit Appaden and Kiran Kallur.

Ground up route by Sohan, Poonacha, Medappa, Supriya Singh and Aditi Kodipady.

1p (|30m) 2p (5.10b|30m) 3p (|40m) 4p (5.9|20m) 5p (|m) 6p (|m) 7p (|m

The traverse from right to left, along the crack, and top out through the Decepticon line. Creative placements in the crack for the traverse. Vertical crack is well protected.

The crux is the traverse section to connect to the vertical crack.

Rack: Hand-sized pieces and below.

Top Anchor: Since a traverse, a top-anchor that would connect the entire traverse might be complex. However, a top anchor from atop the boulder could be setup using small pieces, or just pink-point as your project the traverse, with pre-placed gear in the crack.

FKA: Aalok Bharadwaj pink-pointed on, Dec 11,2021.

1p (5.10a|25m) 2p (5.8|40m) 3p (5.9|20m) 4p (5.10b|45m) 5p (*|30m)

1p (5.8|35m) 2p (5.8|40m) 3p (5.10a|30m) 4p (5.7|30m)

1p (5.9|45m) 2p (A0|45m) 3p (5.9|20m) 4p (5.10b|45m) 5p (*|30m)