Routes in Asia for selected grade

草叔日记-硬伤

Redpoint Video by 超然

Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts.

Shares the start with 'Wake & Bake', then left onto the face. All titanium bolts.

Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts.

屋檐下的一个由窄变宽的烟囱，虽然是运动攀但爬法很传统。

1. 2019年3月16日，家决首攀，建议难度5.13c/d,难点v5/v6,详见：首攀记录《意念的力量：首攀直入魔屋 5.13c/d 》& 家决首攀视频

2. 2021年10月24日，Climber小聂二攀，建议难度5.13ab，难点v4。 Climber小聂二攀视频

3. 线路适合爬缝的个高一些的，综合完成岩友们的意见，2023年2月12日修改定级为13c

Cruisy moves to a boulder problem, was graded as 5.14a.

Starts up the stairs towards 'Tyrolean Wall'. Shares the first few meters with 'The Sit Spins', then straight up. All titanium bolts.

A classic multi pitch. All pitches bolted with titanium glue-ins.

Starts just right of 'Face Plant', then traverses right. All titanium bolts.

Ola FA定级13c,目前的爬法可能没有13。

Starts from the top of 'Medicinal', left branch.

卡爸HSP : 有两段，第一段10。连爬跨拱门是13，与洞左 '烂尾楼' 共顶。

Do you fear the difficulty?

5.10a/5.13c in the latest version of the guidebook.

Two hands start on the sickle (half moon)-like-hold. Share the top-out with 'Arabica'. The whole boulder will be in shade from ~1:30PM

线路约5米高，起步之后过拐角横切。 线路攀登记录

A wild adventure, Ninja your way through the roof and an exciting final headwall. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

屋檐翻到上面的slab是难点，现在普遍的操作是把屋檐上面那把快挂用1米2的扁带延长下来增加一把快挂，在屋檐位置先挂上快挂再做翻屋檐的动作，增加安全性。

2024年6月份，经首攀同意，完成（以及分步过）这条线路的岩友经过集体讨论，认为5.13b/c的难度是一个比较合理的定级。

Small holds requiring enduring power.

Shares the start with Little Dragon in the dragon's mouth cave. Exit the cave and head up and right onto its teeth and face. Professional belay recommended. Tie a know in the end of your rope.

All the way to the top anchors

5.13b/c in the guidebook.

Amazing roof climbing. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

(sds)

长耐力，一直到洞顶

left

攀爬视频

Watch for the bees.

卡爸HSP : 一条短线起点处下方有一枇杷树，有点难。当年过难点时总要跳一把快挂，冲坠时像坐飞船去外太空星球，故名那美克星。

当时国内最难的抱石路线.

left， Sit Start坐起

FA建议难度：能确定的是5.13以上，肯定没有到14。但到底是哪个级别我也不太清楚，毕竟这种角度和风格的线路以前爬的偏少，建议5.13a吧

'穹顶之下 Under the Dome' 延长线 Extension . 2020-8，FA发现新动作，降到13c/d。

Start on a bulge on the lower left side of the boulder. Make sure you have at least 4 pads and beware of some itchy plants! Still unsure if it is climbable during rainy season

#sds

Flaming Hornets extension

Bolts: 8,7,8,6,14

Extension of Dave's Dungeon

The first route put up in the fall of 2010. A spectacular and challenging line. Repeated by Yann Ghesquiers and Dani Andrada in the spring of 2011, a masterpiece so we’re told.

B1 P1. Sit down start from overhang. Scary top out. Dangerous.

#sitstart

Start at the end of Pitch 2 of Gweilo.

bolt: 8,7

bolt:14,14

Extension of The Pledge. Another 17 meters of steep and pumpy climbing, partly on stalactites.

Flaming Hornets right extension

God Hand

Starts 5m right of 'Gaeng Som Pla', straight through the steep grey roof into the structured rock below the anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Same top with second pitch of Corazon de Ensueno

#sitstart

通过一段简单5.6的裂缝到达起点的大平台上，目前线路有三个anchor

gear: C3s: single 000; Camalots: single .5-3, double 4-5, single or double 6

Start from a jug on the right side of the big crack, then traverse right and merge to the 'Giggle Ghost'.

'左D' 第二段。两段共28m

Shares the anchor with 'Babies in the Sky'. All titanium bolts.

Same end as Cliffhanger.

(sds)