Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||||||
24 |
★★ Ra
![]()
1
23
30m
2
24
| 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Feb 2021 | ||||
Surprisingly fantastic.
|
|||||||||
24 |
★★ Ra
![]() | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
The climbing flows very well and has some very cool moves.
|
|||||||||
24 |
★★ Ra
![]() | 30m, 11 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | 2021 | ||||
25 |
FA
★ The Lap Dancer
![]() | 28m, 8 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Jul 2022 | ||||
FFA. Quality steep pumper!
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | ||||
Excellent! I'd rate this up with the other great roof climbs of arapiles. Will be back. Awesome position, with a tricky sequence at the lip. You're in the roof for quite a long time! You will need a medium cam or two after the bolt near the lip to prevent a potential slab fall if it all goes wrong.
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Mar 2021 | ||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | ||||
This route is so unique and a lot of fun. ~8 attempts this trip over ~4 days. Done in two sections. I'll be back!
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th Apr 2021 | ||||
You can’t not climb Punks on its birthday!!
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
Hidden gem.
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mon 26th Apr 2021 | |||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th May 2021 | ||||
Another bunch of attempts over 3 days. Fell off going for the bird-bath four times - each time a bit closer. Wish it was closer to home!
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th May 2021 | ||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jun 2021 | ||||
It felt like the crux of this was getting up Cassandra Direct to the roof. Hadnt done it this way before - very good.
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Dec 2021 | ||||
Hard, gotta come back
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 8th Dec 2021 | ||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Jan 2022 | ||||
Not too bad. Clipped stuck wire
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Mar 2022 | ||||
So it begins.
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Fri 25th Mar 2022 | |||||
1.5 hours dogging around, experiencing a piece of climbing history. Did all moves up to and including the birdbath drive-by. Struggled after, didn't really get stood up. Also struggled on the lower heel move, kinda managed it once. Toasted by the time I lowered off. A 20+ year dream to get on this route.
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Sat 26th Mar 2022 | |||||
Punks shot #2. Hot, face melting. Was mostly keen to experience the top section. Climbed clean to below the heel move, pulled through. Climbed from the rest and stuck the drive-by, couldn't stand up, then pulled through. Did the rest of moves, not nicely, with screaming skin. Then drive 11 hours home!
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Apr 2022 | ||||
Quick burn to suss the moves. All feels doable but that crux is gonna require some oomf
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Wed 13th Apr 2022 | |||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
What a serene parable of a climb. Didn’t even think something of this level was possible after 3 months laid off with injury. Looked across at the line from the bath atop Clytemnestra just as the sun struck it this morning, visualised the moves and thought “that’s going today”. And go it did. Perhaps the most ataraxic climb I’ve ever done. What an experience. What a route. What a place
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 20th Apr 2022 | ||||
Punk
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Apr 2022 | ||||
Excellent clean slabbing into juggy roof action.
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 26th Apr 2022 | ||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Apr 2022 | ||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Apr 2022 | ||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Apr 2022 | ||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Apr 2022 | ||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Tue 26th Apr 2022 | |||||
Touched the birdbath while taking photos of Ryan, so definitely blew the onsight
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th May 2022 | ||||
Whoop! What a route! Super psyched on the style and the lessons it taught me. Given the history it was always a dream route. Quite the mental battle in the end. This trip (my 3rd on the route) I managed to pretty quickly cruise up to and through the birdbath. But I fell 9 times above the birdbath!, mostly trying to match hands after getting my foot on it. Tough to match this route as a lesson in technique and flow, especially the top half. Thanks to Marie for the many patient belays and to Will Monks for working it with me last trip.
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 3rd May 2022 | ||||
Unreal. Felt like a proper quest in the dark. Didn’t get to the top.
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 26th May 2022 | ||||
A fairly outrageous looking line, especially when i had a look while rapping down. Quite happy that i got to the crux clean on toprope, but i predictably got completely shut down at the crux. What a combo of reachy moves, tension, body position and a bunch of shit holds.
The sequence felt great to work through - got most of the moves individually and the rest were cut short by the impending rain. Would be an absolute pumpfest getting through the crux and then the sustained finish too.
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th May 2022 | ||||
stuck about 3 moves from the anchor
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 20th Oct 2022 | ||||
Up around 3rd/4th bolt. Really enjoyable moves. Dream route.
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Jan 2023 | ||||
27 ~28 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 13th Mar 2023 | ||||
A mega classic! Quite tough for 27 I think. It has an outrageous crux sequence, with some wild pinchey, crimpy, underclingy moves. Then into quite sustained climbing up the top.
So stoked to have ticked this beast of a climb today! ^_^ Beta Vid: 👉 https://youtu.be/lyI97ry-Pa4 |
|||||||||
27 ~28 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Mar 2023 | ||||
Cleaning Lucas's gear felt like an anti-climax after his send, but a great opportunity to get the beta (thank-you !) while it was nice and fresh.
Maybe 24/25 up to the start of the crux sequence then a nails V6 ? for 7 (hand) moves on shit holds with a lot of body tension before a lovely but completely blowable finish. I could imagine getting to the crux clean - possibly even next shot - but then failing at various points for the next 50 or so attempts before quitting climbing. Maybe I'll change my mind as I try it more, but for now, this feels sandbagged to the extreme. |
|||||||||
27 Hard |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | ||||
Pretty chill for the first part, then it gets HARD. Didn’t put the crux together, not sure if I’ll try again this trip or not
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
Keen to get back and and work this crux. The climbing up to it is beautiful
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | |||||
All the moves except for the hand foot match done. Psyched!
|
|||||||||
27 Hard |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Oct 2023 | ||||
Inspiring climbing
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Oct 2023 | ||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Dec 2023 | ||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Jan 2024 | ||||
27 ~28 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | Fri 2nd Feb 2024 | |||||
This climb was hard. I can’t fathom how Kim gave this 27 and Masada 29. I’d switch them, but what would I know?
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
27 ~28 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
So epic! Can see this going next session, just gotta dial the crux in more! Can see it feeling like low-end 28 from the ground, keen to get back on it!
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | ||||
What do I do in the crux beta pleae😅
|
|||||||||
27 ~28 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | |||||
Did all the moves
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Mon 15th Apr 2024 | |||||
Note that a 14 year old can get to 3rd clip barefoot and in the dark without a head torch guessing Where the holds are
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
Fell off the bird bath from the ground! And climbed from bird bath to top so I did it in two parts yewww
|
|||||||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
Improved my start and end sequences
|
|||||||||
23 |
★★ Pain Street
![]() | 15m, 7 | Arapiles | Mon 13th May 2024 | |||||
32 |
★★★ Punks in the Gym
![]() | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | Mon 10th Jun 2024 | |||||
All the moves !!
|
|||||||||
28 27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | Sun 21st Aug 2022 | |||||
Good progress
|
|||||||||
28 27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | Fri 26th Aug 2022 | |||||
Back in the game baby
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | |||||
Super
|
|||||||||
27 |
★ Detestes
![]() | 15m, 6 | Arapiles | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | |||||
27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | ||||
27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
Only had 1 attempt due to time and but did all the moves. Cool technical beta for the crux. Keen to get back on
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | Sat 13th May 2023 | |||||
1 burn to make it to the crux and get shut down like Stas, one more burn with Rowan's beta to get past the crux but didn't top. Didn't feel unachievable but need to find the kneebar before the crux because I get far more pumped than I should be...
|
|||||||||
27 ~28 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Feb 2023 | ||||
27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
Happy to pull the send from out of nowhere. Really enjoyed my bouldery crux sequence to some pumpy, sustained, scary runout climbing to the anchor.
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★ Smear Campaign
![]() | 20m, 6 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Jun 2024 | ||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Mar 2021 | ||||
So close! Missed one hold and blew the onsight
|
|||||||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | Tue 9th Mar 2021 | |||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
Pretty cool, single rack is fine.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
Pretty cool, single rack is fine.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | |||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||||
Dont know if i did the actual line as i was wondering all over the place. Very weird. I am very sketched out by this slab business
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | Mon 26th Apr 2021 | |||||
27 |
★★★ Bada boom
![]() | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Oct 2021 | ||||
Unexpectedly climbed all the hard stuff to the trad section but didn’t bring any gear, so had to whip. Have done the trad part numerous times before.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 5th Jan 2022 | ||||
Nice climbing on good rock
|
|||||||||
25 |
★ Mixed Metaphor
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | Average | 2022 | ||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th Apr 2022 | ||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | |||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | Fri 2nd Dec 2022 | |||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 7th Dec 2022 | ||||
26 |
★★★ Incest Sensation Direct
![]() | 38m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Dec 2022 | ||||
Absolute classic and "on" for an awful long time. You can blow it 5m in, 37m in or frankly any number of places in between.
Nothing harder than V2/3, but there's nearly 100 (hand) moves on this route so employ a good memory if - like me - you're not blessed with massive amounts of power. Linked most of Incest from the ground, then the rest of Incest + the first two cruxes of TSD, then was cactus and did shorter sections to the top. Further to the previous discussion around grade I (personally) feel like 26 is about right for the simple reason that you need to not stuff it up (which is very easy to do) for such a long time. (Way, way harder - and better - than Anus Horribilus). Not 27 though, because I'm a chance on this which disqualifies it. |
|||||||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | |||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | ||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Mar 2023 | ||||
Great! Harder mentally than originally
Physically with many moments where I was suprised to still be on the wall.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | ||||
Fun slab
|
|||||||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | ||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 12th Apr 2023 | ||||
20 Easy |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | ||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | ||||
Very fun and technical climbing with a bit of crack to boot. Flashed on pink point.
|
|||||||||
25 |
Krakatoa
![]() | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | Thu 20th Apr 2023 | |||||
Finger went pop! Retreated and called it a day.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 21st Apr 2023 | ||||
27 |
★★★ Bada boom
![]() | 30m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | ||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
18 |
★ Cassandra
![]() | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Sep 2023 | ||||
Interesting and fun. Just did the first pitch.
|
|||||||||
21 |
★★ Streetwise
![]() | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | Wed 4th Oct 2023 | |||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 7th Dec 2023 | ||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | |||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 6th Jan 2024 | ||||
20 |
★ Indecisivity
![]() | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 6th Jan 2024 |