Routes in Northern Group for selected grade

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

Cautiously up the grey pitted face trending R to join School for Scandal.

A direct on Rosshalde. Up the slippery seam past 2 bolts, follow Rosshalde to the roof and then R and up past another 2 bolts. Take lots of long slings or double ropes. After the first 2 bolts there are good small wires where Rosshalde traverses in but they are hard to see, and after rain the placement sometimes fills up with sand - a nut key may be handy to clean it out as they are pretty crucial. Might be 23.

The most attractive climb here. The start requires some small micro cams to protect adequately. If you're not confident at the grade it is recommended to rap in to pre-place or double check the first bits of gear. It is a good idea to anchor your belayer until a few pieces are placed as the consequences of a fall are very serious.

Start below vertical seam that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to single bolt, up past desperate crux then easier ground. Lower offs at top.

Line in between Sounds Like and Kachoong, start directly below where Kachoong is typically started, easiest to rap in from the bolts that get you to the photographer spot. Directly up the orange wall merging with Golden Echo at the left hand end of the Kachoong roof. The wall takes small medium cams, RP's and small wires. Make sure you build a good nest of gear about 4 meters before the roof, then make thin moves to the roof. Bigger gear required from the roof to the top, 0.5 to 3 Camalot.

Linking Cavities into this can be combined for a 40m excursion from bottom to top and gives it mega pitch. Careful of rope drag - roller 'biners recommended. Or Start as for High Dive, but before the major horizontal, traverse into A Taste of Honey and along its hand traverse. At the end reach back onto the Belly Flop lip and mantle it just R of the arete up to High Dive. Continue up past previously dodgy death-block (now pinned & glued, staying about 1m R of the arete the entire way. Top out just R of the shared PCL / LITB / YT / CD finish.

Originally described as "contrived", this route starts around the corner to the left of A Taste of Honey Direct Start.

Climb the flaring crack through an overhanging bulge into an offwidth and up to a grey and white ledge about 8m beneath the start of High Dive. A bit dirty, but also completely superseded by Dark Matter which incorporates all of this into a longer route.

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor.