That spicy start spat me out on the first try, it was clean but still not enjoyable the sections round! From there the route is a nice time, particularly good to find a lovely finger pocket.
Good climb, had a punt on lead 3 grades above my highest single pitch trad lead send!! went OK but took my first big whip on my own gear - a bomber nut. Then went back and top roped to bash out said nut
What a ride. The guidebook certainly was not exaggerating when it said it was committing to gain the ledge. What wasn't mentioned though was how hard the face climb was at the end after traversing right from the ledge. It didn't feel like a 19 to me. Pro was sparse throughout, though good where you can find it. Falling from the ledge would be a guaranteed decking.
Would have been FINE if I’d seen the OBVIOUS FACE HOLDS at half height. I didn’t. So what resulted was the pumpiest, most convoluted thrutch fest of my life. (I’m not mad at all)
Blew the onsight on the moves to the ledge from the top of the flake. For my own future reference, cross through with the right hand from the top of the flake, and then left hand to the horizontal breaks by the ledge. Offset nut and a purple cam at top of flake, silver nut in horizontal break at the ledge.
With finish straight up from the little ledge, which Alfonso thought was the obvious way to go. That finish felt a few grades easier than the regular way.
First trad “whip”! Foot slipped on the slippery smears at the very top. I reacted by grabbing my last piece. Great climb nonetheless, keen to have another go at it
Real nice movement. kinda wish I led it but as my previous logs from this weekend would suggest, I have not been in the headspace for much leading as late (which is fine)
Got seriously sandbagged by Kevin, leaving me expecting a nice chill unique route but finding an epic thrash fest of trying hard. second pitch was the nice chill time we were expecting for the first
