Routes in Upper Gully for selected grade

Crack with overhung start 8 metres left of 'Trampled Underfoot'.

Serious route which appears to require a long reach and has a suspect grade. Rarely, if ever repeated and you would probably need blinkers to avoid clipping the bolts on "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Start below block jammed in the horizontal break right of "Trampled Underfoot". This block is a metre or two right of the first fixed hanger of "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Move up from jammed block to an undercling (looks desperate) then veer left, crossing "Flesh-Eating Pixies" into flake.

A good roof - the crackline just R of the arete. You can also take the flake to the R at the same grade.

Originally raved about but the crux section has to fight to avoid easier climbing. However now that the bees are gone (as of Apr 2023) this route might just be worth the hype it was originally given. Usually done as one pitch.

Start in the gully below the prominent orange wall.

1. 14m (17) Start at the left of two right-facing corners: up this for 7 metres before veering left to platform (alternatively take the central line starting up a seam in the grey mossy wall).

2. 25m (22) From the ledge, start a few metres left of the old beehive at a fist sized pocket, then step right (can also be done directly up from the beehive - neither option has great gear). A big span left brings you to a large pocket, then up to a horizontal break. Aim for a pocket towards the top of the dirty groove, going straight up (ignoring easier climbing on either side).

Start: Start 10 metres left of the chimney of "The Protege".

1. 30m (22) Climb crack then grooves to hanging crack then out over roof to belay.

2. 35m (22) Swing onto right face of arete and finish steeply up it.