Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor.

Starts at the same corner as for Popeye, then steps up and right to a higher V-corner. Pass the bulge using the big pockets, then higher to where the angle eases. From here you can either traverse far left (to 'The Wizard of Id' abseil station), or veer right up the dirty weakness (to 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' abseil station).

Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF.

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.

Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete.

Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.

A low bolt then try not to die above that.

Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.

Struggle up the good line.

Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens.

Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.

Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.

Unprotected black streak, then corner.

Start: Start ~20m R of ALG.

The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.

Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.

Sustained face and crack with good wires.

Start: Start 3m R of K.

A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.

Start: Start R of MW.

Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves.

After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam.

It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.

Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'.

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).

Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.

Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L. Start as for B.

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.

Start: Start 3m R of C.

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

Start 5m L of Agamemnon. L-facing orange flakes 1m L of shrub, to striking large holes under roof. Move 1m left to breach roof at obvious under clings, then up face past old peg on the right, drift left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors (30m).

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!

Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.

Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.

Offwidth Size Dependent!!

Good mini-route.

Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.

The fine line L of the slim tree. Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.

Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected. Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of Frenzy.

Start just R of F. The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.

One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

Undercling past first roof and continue up crack for 5m.

Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scary. Start 2 metres right of Tremulo at seam.

Beautiful rock but a bit contrived. Start as for Discord.

1. 25m (22) Follow the line of Discord and continue up, keeping as far to the right as possible. At headwall step right to a bulging thin crack which is followed to a ledge. The direct start (23) climbs past a bolt to join this pitch. Graham Jones March 1986. There is a carrot bolt low down which looks like it might be the direct start. There is also a FH a good deal higher than the carrot whose role is not clear.

2. 20m (-) The crack above.

Hardly a recommendation.

Sit start.

The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.

"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.

Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error.

Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal.

Harder than it looks! Small wires and smaller holds.

The tough thin crack just right of Squeakeasy leads into Quisling.

Start just left of Moby Dick. Scramble up L then traverse R once level with the little roof. Now straight up to a dyno finish.

As usual, make sure of your gear when you're this close to the ground. The L crack on the pillar.

A badly protected difficult start, which has been done many ways, eases off to nondescript climbing.

Start: Start about 5m R of DL.

You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. Start: 2m Left of Howling Wolf at the arete.

Up arete to break. Difficult blind step up to top.

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

Start: The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of 'Ball Terrier'.

Start: An equally tenuous line up the slab right of IDKWtCi-D.

Straight up, avoiding using any holds of SD itself.

Start: Start 1m L of SD.

The intermittent crack.

Start: Start in the centre of the wall.

Wonder why they didn't do them both in the same day?

Crack 1m R of Straw Dogs.

The line in the middle.

Start: Start in the middle of the small buttress uphill from 'Deep Freeze Wall'.

Initial moves poorly protected. Bring micro cams, RP's and also some large wires, a 7or8 can help if you're creative. Start 3m R of Mari. Thin flake then R into corner, then stay L of the gully. The RHF takes the groove on the R (21) for the last 10m.

Poor pro up wall with large scar at 10m. Start 2m R of F.

Wall with poor pro. Start 2m R of IPD.

Up the slab, going R and L a bit. Start just L of FotR.

The slab, scary up high. Start just R of FotR.

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue. Start 2m R of SUYS.

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over. Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

Another traverse which needs a strong second. May have been somewhat sanitised by the later bolts of GftP and BE. A very noteworthy ascent for the era by a young Lindorff. Start as for JC.

1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on Cecilia.

2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join Frontispiece.

Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap. Then follow the crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. 1 good FH, 3 manky carrot bolts (don't trust these). Bolted anchor at the top is back from the edge so if you want to lower off them you may trash your rope. It's also ok to step R to the GoB anchor and deal with a bit of sideways swinging.

An exhausting undertaking up the major line on the wall (left-trending crack). Once graded 20! Steeply left to left leaning flake and poor rest. Step left then up.

The next 3 routes are on the upper level, access by scrambling down gully from the top to fixed rope and plank. Directly above Tres Hard is this slightly less hard crack.

Scramble R along the ledge from the block at the start of Pritchard's Neuralgia. Starts up the easy corner, can be done as a sport route but worth taking a medium cam for before the first bolt. Wild overbolting mitigates the dubious jug.

Most certainly Glenn just got the grade mixed up in the first 2 routes. This is V3 and generous at that!

Take the easiest line up the face via plenty of horizontals. Start on the nice blob of rock which is uphill and L of Saraband.

A bit harder. Start 2m R of BMUS. Up via small flake then R-ish.

Up the R side of the buttress. The DF up the top crack is reachy 24, the 22 way is to climb the breaks R of the arete. Start just R of S.

Start beneath the major crack in the middle of the face. Easily and best climbed in a single pitch, use extenders or double ropes for rope drag mitigation. 25m rap to the ground from the end of the second pitch.

1. 15m (21) The steep crack up to the base of the major sickle crack. Trad belay.

2. 25m (22) Follow the L-curving sickle crack to the top. Double bolt belay.

From the 1st belay of Reaper, go up then traverse 4m right into exposed terrain above Incest (past bolt), then head up over bulge to gorgeous hanging slab (2 FHs) to roof. Now traverse R and finish up Wild Oats.

From 1st belay of Reaper, follow Girl Germs to the roof, then pump up the power to pull the lip and onwards to glory. Can do from the ground in one big awesome pitch and lower off Taste Sensation chains with 70m rope.

If you follow the instruction to Chaconne in Lou's guide, you'll probably find this instead. On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. Up the diagonal seam on R side of the face to hard move onto arete and up. TR'd a DF which is better and slightly harder.

The recent addition of a bolt has seen this route suddenly become a lot more popular. The short arete and wall (bolt) just R of 'Scourge'.

A bold journey through technical terrain and good but spaced gear. Start easily (either up the corner or traverse in from the left) to reach a prominent horizontal break, and follow this to the right. Reachy moves lead to a reinforced flake. You can soon reach left to clip a bolt (on Windsong), before arriving at a stance. From here, avoid the temptation to follow the juggy line right around the arete (you will be punished with mediocre climbing and phenomenal rope drag); instead, establish yourself on the arete and enjoy the crisp edges and outrageous exposure to the top. Double ropes are handy.

Start: Start at the major line jagging it\'s way up the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Tough jamming up first groove to gain jugs, then go L to a belay.

2. 20m (22) Tiring jamming leads up L of the major bulge to a roof.

Head up L from the terrace past 2 bolts. Descend by downclimbing the crack to the R.

Start: Start R of SaBB just above the top of 'Dreadnought Gully', at a terrace on the R.

This one is on the L side of the gully, opposite all the other routes. You need to scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought to find it. Out the roof on the L, past a hidden BR. Very bold getting to bucket, around which you need to place a long sling for your next piece of pro.

Main left-trending diagonal, beginning with a reachy dynamic start, then trending reachily left across jugs to a cruxy exit, which is just a tad reachy. Short people often find Dreadnought easier. May well be 23.

Start 8m R of NE. Or you can avoid the crux start by starting further R.

1. 25m (22) Hard boulder problem start leading to more moderate crack weakness. At top of crack, veer left up nose below arete.

2. 8m (21) The flake on the arete to the next ledge.

3. 20m (-) Step L onto the front of the arete, spectacular over bulge, then easily to ledge.

4. 22m (-) Easily up. It's also possible (and maybe better) to simply traverse R and find a bollard to rap off.

Start as for Withnail and I. Climb the steep grey wall above to gain the arete proper of Cow Cragg passing a FH on its left (if you move right here it is about grade 20 and still worthwhile). Continue up the arete to join Marwood at the top.

Serious start but finish is worthless. This original probe at the Forbidden Fruit face got Kieran an invition onto the FF team.

Start 4m L of Saracen.

1. 25m (22) Tough poorly protected start to dubious flake-block, then up R to jugs. Easier runout section up to overlap, over bulge and move L to join Saracen. Belay at good ledge on L.

2. 10m (22) The crack on the R side of the yellow wall, through the bulge then R to easy finish and go across to rap anchor for Sandpiper.

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish. Start 3m L of L.

This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux.

Start as for Ali's. Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.