Help

The Flight Deck

9

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Flight Deck Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

Steep scramble up the slabs below.

Descent notes

There is a rap station at the top of It'll Never Fly and one at the top of Orestes.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Warning Fixed Gear: Both anchor bolts are loose

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

  1. 20m (23) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

  2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979

Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

FA: Louise & Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Fri 28 Apr
Check out what is happening in The Flight Deck.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文