Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Coffs Rocks | |||||||
V0- | Drum Lesson | 2m | Average | ||||
Down climbed to escape the boulder. Unmemorable.
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V0 | Stand & Liver | 2m | Average | ||||
A few features and not too hard. Newbie friendly.
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V0 | Thorn in my Pride | 2m | Average | ||||
Thinner than Stand & Liver, though no harder. Not a bad newbie boulder. Rock is a bit friable.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Godwin | |||||||
V0 | ★★ Godwin | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really short, and really sweet. Like the crux move of a 19/20 Friction slab, without the boring other bits.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Orchid | |||||||
V0- | ★ Bomber Flake | 2m | Average | ||||
A bit sketchy in approach shoes, but an okay climb. The flake is totally bomber.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders No place like home | |||||||
V0 | ★★ No place like home | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. Mmmm... Blueys Crimpers. Thin top section.
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V0 | ★ Lara's route | 5m | Average | ||||
Repeat. Only one difficult move surrounded by jugs. A touch of committment is required.
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V2 | ★ Midget Nightmare | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Big move, and certainly committing as falling REALLY isn't an option. Might be easier than V2, JengA... But good fun.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Hd lichen helm | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Exciting though easy. Done with 2 pads and 2 spotters. No move on this is harder than a Grade 17 friction slab (V0-?) But the highball aspect makes it feel tenuous. Definitely a worthwhile addition.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Frack boulder | |||||||
V1 | Frack my Crack | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. Wow, the SDS variant felt really easy this time (compared to last year) with good crack technique. I actually enjoyed this. The rock at the top is friable, but the climbing is easy by then.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Crank Shaft Boulders | |||||||
V2 | ★ Piston Grip | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
A punchy move or two, easing off at the top. Good fun.
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V1 | ★ Traverse | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Good value traverse without the strenuous start next to it.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Park boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Walk in Park SDS | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat. A nice little mid-ball problem with a tough-ish start.
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V1 | ★ The Great Unscrubbed (Unnamed - Sharpie's New Route) | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Not a bad little addition, with one exciting move.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Slap happy | |||||||
V2 | ★ Slap happy | 3m | |||||
too pumped to top out
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Park boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Walk in the park | 3m | |||||
V2 | ★★ Doing the dynosaur | 3m | |||||
Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Sheep Shit Rock Across the road | |||||||
V0 | It's a boy | 3m | |||||
V1 | Still crazy after all these years | 3m | |||||
Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Frack boulder | |||||||
V1 | Frack my Crack | 5m | Average | ||||
Tricky foot jam/fist jam start then pretty cruisy to the top
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Rhys boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Rhys's crack | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finding the right the feet sequence (and kneebar!) was key
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Sketch-up boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★ Knee bar problem | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Bottom block is loose. Someday, someone is going to get a rather large rock to the crotch. Fun problem though!
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Central Areas VLB | |||||||
V0- | Walk Off - with Luke King, George Reinhardt | ||||||
It's really a very large boulder! Chilling out on the top after a big day exploring Goat Dome.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Whale Rock | |||||||
17 | ★ Whale Ale - with Luke King | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
In the dark. Tricky finding those crystals for your feet with a headlamp!
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16 | ★★ Tui - with Luke King | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice line, good climbing.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Coffs Rocks | |||||||
V0 | Stand & Liver | 2m | Average | ||||
V0 | Thorn in my Pride | 2m | Average | ||||
Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Orchid | |||||||
V0- | ★ Bomber Flake | 2m | Average | ||||
Exciting in hiking boots.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders No place like home | |||||||
V0 | ★ Lara's route | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Similar, but a more committing finishing move. There are a few other boulder problems around here that I did, but aren't listed.
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V0 | ★★ No place like home | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Positive crimpers! High steps! I'm in heaven!!
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Power Boulder | |||||||
V4 V6 | ★★★ Power Monkey | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
"Power Monkey - Revised Edition" Standing start, using the new hold created by the missing flake. V3-V4? One of the best boulder problems I've done, loved the moves!
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Sheep Shit Rock Mushroom Boulder | |||||||
V0- V1 | ★ Shroomery | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Did it standing, the sit start holds are broken, along with many other parts of this boulder.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Rhys boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Rhys's crack | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Sketch | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Sketch | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Swamp Thing | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Swamp Thing | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Whale Rock | |||||||
14 | ★★ Dark Night | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ticked on the same day it was bolted. You don't often get a sinker handjam on a slab climb. Good fun.
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10 | Of Whale & Wasp | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary Too | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Jesus ate my butt crack | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary | |||||||
V0 | ★ Daylight Fading | ★ Good | |||||
V0- | Way Down | 2m | Average | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Coffs Rocks | |||||||
V0 | Stand & Liver | 2m | Average | ||||
V0- | Drum Lesson | 2m | Average | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Central Areas Bondi and Fox boulders Geckos guild boulders | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Red Ferrari - with Rhyan Bassett | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice compact rock and some cool holds
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V1 | FA ★ White Lamborghini - with Rhyan Bassett | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Not as good as Red Ferrari, but nice positive holds and not the easiest topout
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V0 | Geckos Holiday - with Rhyan Bassett | Average | |||||
V0 | FA ★ White Powder Addiction - with Rhyan Bassett | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Odd start, easier once you get the sidepull with the right hand.
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V3 | ★★ Geckos Nubbin - with Rhyan Bassett | ★★★ Classic | |||||
We thought this was unclimbed, oh well, still a gem, didn't use the nubbin but went right to some good edges. Pretty tough and classic
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V0 | FA La Accessa - with Rhyan Bassett | 2m | Crap | ||||
V1 | ★★★ Rambona - with Rhyan Bassett | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent crack line, Rhyans best FA of the day. Finger locks, slopers and a meathook, and a jug topout, sweet!!
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V2 | FA ★★ 14 Inch Anal Stormtrooper - with Rhyan Bassett | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful smooth fine grained rock, a rare thing at Beulah. Dont cheat by moving right onto Afterthought!
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V0 | FA Afterthought - with Rhyan Bassett | 3m | Average | ||||
Pretty average when considering the two gems to the left...
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V0 | FA ★★ Toms 2 Fingers - with Rhyan Bassett | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First problem I put up at Geckos Guild, great warmup.
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V1 | FA ★ What Could I Do - with Rhyan Bassett | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Another afterthought, thin crimper in the middle
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V1 | FA ★ La Chinina - with Rhyan Bassett | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Good, will be better with more ascents.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Power Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ Escaped monkey | ||||||
Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Gully boulder | |||||||
V2 | after breakage arete | 4m | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Gully gaston | ★★★ Classic | |||||
really enjoyed this one. slopper central to left crimp, pull it to gaston, lock and top out. really pushed myself for the flash
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Whale Rock | |||||||
17 | ★ Whale Ale | 15m, 4 | |||||
welcome to slab
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17 | ★ Invalid Whale | 15m, 4 | |||||
rp flash. after WA
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16 | ★★ Tui | 15m, 5 | |||||
night sesh
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders | |||||||
V2 | FA ★★ Hd lichen helm | 10m | |||||
best part of a slab highball. 7 pads and 4 spotters
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Sheep Shit Rock Mushroom Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★ Ants in my pants | Average | |||||
Nice little warm up problem
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Justice boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Socially just fucker | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sick traverse with sketchy slab climbing to finish. Final attempt ended with a fall at the top out move after breaking off a hold. Will send it next year.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Dome | |||||||
V0 | ★★ The Never Ending Story that Never Ends... and then Ends | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
One of Alan's new routes! Broke off a few holds going for the third ascent, it climbs well!
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V0 | ★★ The Never Ending Story that Never Ends... and then Ends | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly worthwhile, and climbs a lot better than you might think. Quite long, without being highball. Fun!
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary Too | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Jesus ate my butt crack | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. More afternoon bouldering. Didn't even think about the height this time. Friable rock, but fun. Make sure you start at the underclings at the left end of the flake for the full tick.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary | |||||||
V0- | Way Down | 2m | Average | ||||
Repeat. Afternoon bouldering at Beulah.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Boulders Saturday Boulder | |||||||
23 | ★ Pebble Surprise | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Good, but more like sustained 18/19 for a friction slab (after the initial low-angle easy part). Scary because of the friable rock. Some varied moves make it worthwhile. It's a lot longer than you can see from below.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Dome | |||||||
21 | ★★ Tribute to Dangles | 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another friction slab dog cleaned up. Incredibly tenuous to the second bolt (21), then sustained 18 (Tarana grading) to the top, with some wicked runouts on the way. Long, delicate, and awesome. My toes were screaming by the end of it.
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19 | ★★ Philosophers Stone | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great to get back on this one for the tick. Done as a warmup, and other than a tricky start it went pretty easily. As I said a year ago, this is good in that it's much more varied than the other slabs around it, though not ridiculously hard. The start is a tough sequence, but it's great once you crack it. Enjoy!
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary | |||||||
V4 | ★★ African reef | ★★ Very Good | |||||
This was a great problem, but too hard for me. Super duper sharp!
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary Too | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Jesus ate my butt crack | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard-ish start, committing finish, but great fun!
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Solitary | |||||||
V0- | Way Down | 2m | Average | ||||
This whole freaking boulder is sharp.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Dome | |||||||
19 | ★★ Philosophers Stone | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Oh god, this was terrifying. Up to 4th bolt then bailed!
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Blackberry boulders | |||||||
17 | ★★ Your Anger Is A Gift | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One fall topping out. Simon rapped and removed all the gear fro me. I got angry and sent it second go.
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Swamp Thing | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Swamp Thing | 5m | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Sketch | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Sketch | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Rhys boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Rhys's crack | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Justice boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Socially just fucker | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Lower Riverside Sector | |||||||
V1 | FA Don't be a Fool Wrap Your Tool | 3m | Don't Bother | ||||
V1 | FA A Corona and a Boner | 3m | Average | ||||
V5 | FA ★★★ Still Some Quiver When I Deliver | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sweet, the campus move to start was hard. Best and hardest thing I've done at Beulah so far
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V0 | FA ★★ Sexy Leroy | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Both these problems were good. Nice rock.
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V2 | ★★ Green Ginger Migraine | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Up the right arete, sweet balancy problem
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V0 | FA ★ Diabolical Anatomical | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | FA ★★ U C My Aura I C Your Daughter | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great finger crack. If only there were 20 metre cracks like this at beulah...
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V3 | FA ★★ The Show Must Go On | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One of the gems here, harder than it looks.
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V0 | FA Glide in Your Stride | 2m | Don't Bother | ||||
Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Blackberry boulders | |||||||
12 | Blackberry Crack | 10m | |||||
Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Power Boulder | |||||||
V7 V6 | ★★★ Power Monkey SDS | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Great line! Topped out the propper way, problem hasnt changed. SDS deffinately adds a greade to V7.
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V6 | ★★★ Power Monkey | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Done the propper way out right at top.
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | |||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Whale Rock | |||||||
17 | ★ Invalid Whale | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★★ Tui | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great fun close to camp
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10 | Of Whale & Wasp | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
In joggers on lead at the request of belayer!!
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14 | FA ★★ Dark Night | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin slab at start then ok. Don't forget the cam!!
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17 | FA ★★ Angry Man | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough start again.
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17 | FA ★★ Angry Man | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough start again.
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17 | ★ Invalid Whale | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★★ Tui | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great fun close to camp
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10 | Of Whale & Wasp | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
In joggers on lead at the request of belayer!!
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