Ascents in Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area as various tick types

P1 Tom - big whip missing slab when tore off a side pull, P2 Niko - big whip flipping upside down smashing back and leg at roof when inspecting 26 arete and bolt blew? - CAUTION - potential missing bolt at 26 section of arete (near broken flake?)

On P2 made it quickly to the arrette. Asked Tom to take on one of the bolts I just clipped quickly had a look at the sequence realising that what appeared to be the key flake hold, was ripped off by someone prior. I tried a sequence without it but decided to come back down to have an other look. The draw was at my waist. So I asked Tom to take, grabbed the express of the draw with my right hand to slowly rotate back down. It took my weight [with tom saying he had me fully loaded on his end]. Next thing I know, I'm flying through the air upside down; I impact back first. Due to the rope being fully loaded it was a violent pendulum swing But thankfully my head and upper torso were flung bellow the roof. There was a quickdraw dangling on my side of the rope. This suggests that I didn't clip the draw correctly or a U-Bolt pulled out without the rock. I couldn't know for sure - but having loaded that quickdraw prior with no problems (and looking at it directly before I climbed) to me it suggests the latter. Pain quickly prioritised itself over curiosity and we bailed back down to the ground.

Took bad pics of the guide and ended up on this instead of BBB. Got to the 2nd pitch's crux, then realised that there was no way that this was 18 hahah. Had time to retreat, and get on Bunnies!

Sweeet, was a great day. Bit of an epic, but nevertheless (therefore?) great. Good climbing all the way. Spaced, but reasonably bolted. I've kind of tried to free the crux, but decided to go back down to get a stick and clip that bolt. It looks pretty desperate and I couldn't have done it. Also the rest of the pitch is stiff and nowhere near a 23 I'd say. There was - and still is (28.1.18 ) - a small stick on the belay after pitch 1. Might be good to take your own on up with you though, just to be sure. Should reach it with a long panic-draw, I guess. The roof-pitch is awesome, the traverse amazing and puts you in a fucking spledid position. Felt easier than 21 though. Got in the rain at that time and topped out drenched to the skin.

Nats gift to me for my birthday. It was great to finally climb Stephen Hawkshaw's Big Schnoz. Probs the biggest Punter to have climbed this route. Sorry to anyone who heard me swearing my way up on second hahaha

First half of the route is pretty slabby with small holds. The crux being super thin. Props to Nat who whipped over 5 times till he got it clean. Whereas I spent most of this pitch aiding on draws.

The upper pitches are far nicer however don't flow aswell as Bunnies or Hotel.

The Traverse pitch is insane! you spend most of time traversing mere millimeters from the void untill you step up to grab the schnoz!

Has anyone else noticed that there is a shape of the face in the rock!! also whats the big guys name????

Pretty stoked to have actually got up this!!!

Tried this as part of a link up with Mirrorball. Pitch two - shut down. Damo took some cracker whips. Retreated as we didn't feel like an epic. Will return to give a full day.

Was aiming for Hotel California, but wasnt paying enough attention to the topo and jumped on this. Got a rude shock halfway up P2 on the arete and then figured out where we were. Maybe I could have persevered and yarded through with the panic draw, but I was scarcely able to get from one bolt to the next and was wigged out, so we retreated and ran up BBB instead due to time constraints with our fluffy tails down between our legs.

Linkup of the first 6 pitches of RRR into a 60m traverse to finish out on the nose. Super faffy to organise, but extremely glad we did - was a sick day out.

It was amazing to finally tie in for this after thinking about the line constantly for the past year.

3 ties in to progressively figure out how to enter the roof crack. Turns out the direct line is some of the absolute worst choss you can imagine. Spent 15 minutes sketchily cleaning rock before down climbing and seeking another way. Best line seems to be BBB for a few bolts and then traversing right.

High point was entering the roof crack, getting an inverted heel tool cam into the roof pod but only to have a hold rip out and then taking an upside down whip back onto the wall. But the gear held!

Couldn’t get the FA today as it needs two BD 5s to protect (one for end of traverse, one for roof pod) and only had one.

Feeling like the minimum grade might be 24? Hoping to get back in a week or two with more big gear.

The route name continues the areas trend of alliterating rodents.

After an emergency shipment of big cams last week, I finally had the gear to climb the route!

Managed to aid through the roof today and find all key holds + placements. Some wild, wide-boys style beta needed to climb Chinchilla but it actually started to look possible after the gear was found and holds had some chalk.

After trying the moves, and sticking a few of them, thinking the grade is 25ish. Today technically an FA, albeit in the most hang-dogging of styles. Aiming for an FFA attempt next week.

All moves free baby!

Feel pretty confident with it being grade 25 as its harder than any previous trad route I’ve done, even after figuring out all moves and gear.

This thing is cooked: a wide boys style heel toe cam into the roof crack leading into a dead point to a hand jam. Maybe there is other beta but by George it works and does it feel amazing to climb!

God freaking dammit… made it through the roof THREE DAMN TIMES and pumped out pulling the lip each send attempt.

So so so so so so close 😭

Well, looks like the trip is being extended again! Just cannot leave with a send being that close.

Fuckin ridiculously good! Only one fall, on P1.

Great adventure route, loved the headwall from the traverse on, fantastic holds. Really hard first pitch...not 21, unless you pull on the draw at the crux...not that I would do that...

First ever multipitch bigger then 2 pitches...quite an experience

First pitch is harder than 21

3 hours to get from car to bottom of hotel, Bush bashed 1.5hours too much. Sat on the first pitch a few times but did the rest fine . 6th pitch the traverse pitch was amazing but then I dropped my grigri hahaha... whats a multi without a few hickups! Got out safe and sound and car to car it took 9.5 hours slowwww day

What Ian said.lol

Second with many, many rests and some yarding on draws.

Traverse pitch was awesome.

Stunning, exposed Blue Mountains classic. Had to dog the hell out of pitch 7, a bit mashed by that point. Great day out.

3 climbers, 9.5h car to car, 7h climbing. Rested and pulled on draws during the harder parts of P1, climbed the rest clean. Led pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 10. A pretty full-on introduction to Pierce's Pass!

BETA:

1. Solid for the grade. Crux pulling first roof, hard reachy moves below 2nd roof, hard thin finish. Good rests in between. Semi-hanging belay. Maybe grade 20 with quickdraw-pulling in the two roofs.

2. Slabby, and a bit runout just before it becomes less steep.

3. Easy.

4. Super easy.

5. Fun jug hauling up the wall, then just a walk left from the top.

6. Crux moves off the ground pulling the roof, then easy (grade 17?) but runout and massively exposed traverse. A second falling here would be bad, and they may need to be lowered to the start of P5! Use a long sling for bolt 7.

7. Crux move off the belay, then cruisy jug hauling.

8. Cruisy. Use a long sling/draw in the first cave.

9. Walking. No bolts, forget the belay and coil the ropes. Head right past cave until rock turns dark grey.

10. Sandy, brittle, and unpleasant. Beware sharp edges and loose rock on topout.

pull through crux, no regrets

Epic route, awesome exposure on the traverse and the headwall above. I led odds taking a couple of falls on the first pitch otherwise clean, Ryley led evens. We walked off after pitch 8 forgetting about the last couple, roughly 6 hours climb time including lunch breaks.

Had 1 fall on P1, clean the rest. P1 is harder than 22. P2 was hard for gr20 also. Dodgy alum brackets on the easy middle pitches. A great day out. P10 is worth while.

This is an epic and hard climb! The traverse is the money pitch, I'm happy to have lead that one. I'd probably do the linkup of the first 3 pitches of 'Contented Cows' if I ever try this again. Starting with the 22 as warmup is not yet my thing. Anyway, I'm quite happy I am able to fully tick this climb!

Great day climbing with Aleix

so so windy i got blown off the wall a few times! good day out, 8 hours car to car taking our sweet time.

Fav pitch: Pitch after the traverse

Least fav pitch: First pitch, not due to the climbing but due to MY climbing

Fav move: Pitch 2 slab crux

Fav belay: Hanging belay on the headwall up top

New learning: The art of aid climbing (French freeing) on pitch 1

Something I would do different next time: Haul that bloody bag on pitch 1

Exciting moments: Trying to combine P7 and P8 without enough quickdraws

Constant fear factor: Dropping them climbing shoes

Scariest moment: Witness a guy use fiddle stick on the Weaselburger abseil

Proudest moment: Checking out the emergency bucket. Holyshit there is a lot of stuff in there and I might have added a gourmet chocolate bar that will give guarantee the poor survivors a trip to the dentist.