Mostly trad multi up a series of splitter cracks. Rack - doubles from #0.3 to #3 Camalots and single set of wires. A few extra cams in the tight hand size could be handy as well a single #4 camalot. Belays are on small ledges. Rap in as for Sarlac.
20m (17) Corner crack 2m right of the bolted slab of Sarlac pitch 1. At top of corner trend left to finish via last bolt of Sarlac. Belay off U bolts on big ledge.
20m (20) Move belay 10m left to crack (trad belay). Layback or jam offset crack to "The Block" - don't worry its attached to the cliff with some creative engineering. Whimper around it then stem up amazing wave funnel plugging cams in the right crack. Belay on big ledge (U bolts).
25m (22) The money pitch. Jam up stunning orange crack (wide down low then mostly tight hands/finger size). When crack evaporates at 15m traverse right onto bolted wall. Up this (crux) then trend left to small ledge stance in corner (U bolts). It is possible to break this pitch into two with trad belay above crack.
30m (21) Stem up ugly rock to flake then traverse right under rooflet to ledge. Dawdle up easy ground to top and tree belay. 6 bolts - no trad on this pitch.
A landmark feature, but the rock is average at best! Up the major left facing corner-crack between the choss-arete and STMLTS, with much loose rock on the right wall. Hard moves through the vegetation, up scary block of mega-choss, up off-width overhanging corner (with sections of choss) and finally up into roof to lower-off anchors. The theme of the day is choss! FA was done in a giant pitch (and not using any of the nearby bolts), but best to split this into two pitches at the interim belay below the giant choss-block (or just bring 3 x full racks #0.75 to #4 and lots of runners).
