This is one of those routes not to confuse easy grading with suitability for beginners. True old school run-out feel and crappy rock (although not as bad as Dream Machine in either aspect). Can protect the belayer with medium-large cams if worried about the drop-off behind
nearly punted so many times faffing about but just commited to the unknown throws would have been nice to do fresh not after headshot. Some nice climbing on decent holds for the most part
Excellent wall climbing with a techy finish. Somehow hung in there with the top couple of holds running with water and slime. Very enjoyable low angled climbing.
I m running out the of good climbs of grade 25/26 to onsight and end up to find myself on choss is inevitable.
But this one is unique in is kind: arrived underneath it I got amazed about how much choss , sand , moisture,spiderwebs, glue there was on it, despite everything it looked amazing from far away and I decided to give it a shot and I purely loved it from start to end
While getting geared up to warm-up on this I realised I had left my shoes at home. Sigh. Claudio had a solution...actually a pair of them, albeit 3 sizes too big. I'm very grateful I was still able to climb after the significant approach, but the shoes made footwork more exciting. Anyway, this climb was mega! A surprisingly pumpy good time.
The start of this route is an awesome boulder on cool features. Nearly fell out of the clodhoppers heel hooking out of the roof. Tough move on the slab and then a traverse after the slab felt reeally spicy and the pump caught up with me hard at the top. I reckon this route is tough at 23.
Lowered down this to have a look. A few quite interesting meters and a pile of choss around it. Worth doing the few good meters if you happen to be here
Decided to be fancy and try do a block for single strand rap on grigri, but foolishly clipped the block back to the loaded strand, due to the jank anchor setup twists started propagating down strands during pull down - saved only by bernard lower off the 8 next door.
Left anchor is GIMB with removable pfh hanger and a small ?6mm mallion.
