A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Kladnig Brendan Heywood Will Vidler Paul Frothy Thomson Brendon Flanagan Rod Smith Keith Davison Nathan Poole Graham Dowden Michael Branch
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Hocus Pocus Area 18 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Hocus Pocus Area 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.602600, 150.253463
access issues
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
approach
This is one of the far left (northern) sectors of Piddo. If you want to start your day here (it gets sun a little earlier than the rest of the crag), it is possible to shave almost a kilometre off the usual walk-in by bush bashing in to the top and rapping in down Curtain Call (i.e. by reversing the fairly popular Hocus Pocus exit bush bash). To find the best place to start the bush bash, walk down the firetrail below the locked gate as usual, past the Boronia Point turnoff to the left, and about 80m further to the next small rise. Turn R into the bush here and follow the ridgetop due west for 200m to the clifftop. You may have to head 20m L to descend a small upper cliff; the hand-rope leading down to the Curtain Call rap chains is about 20m walk downhill from this point. If you navigate the bush bash ok it's less than 10 mins from the car to the rap anchor.
descent notes
Most routes top out in this area, in which case the quickest descent is the rap chains above Curtain Call (28m abseil - one 50m rope will suffice but be ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope!). When accessing this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. It is a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Indeed, sadly there has been a death here. This downclimb has a fixed rope that can be hand-over handed or rapped on. Either way - clip into it!
ethic
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Imbecile
Start: Approximately 25m to the left of 'Idiot'. Left side of the buttress.
FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967 | 11 | 52m, 3 | |||||
2 |
Infidel
Start: Corner 5m left again.
FA: J.Ewbank & R.Reynolds, 1967 | 16 | 52m, 2 | |||||
3 |
No Static
Start: 7m left again. Right of arete. FA: I.Rath, N.Mahunt & V.Burke, 1986 | 15 | 45m | |||||
4 |
★★ Hocus Pocus
The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out. It's not too hard to climb it with packs on, then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.
FA: K.Westren & M. Hailstone, 1964 | 8 | 49m, 15 | |||||
5 |
★ Ra
FA: H.Luxford, 1977 | 13 | 44m | |||||
6 |
★ Slab Right of Withdrawal
Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 19 R | 48m | |||||
7 |
★ Withdrawal
Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up. Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call. FA: M.Law & G.Harrison, 1979 | 20 R | 48m | |||||
8 |
★★ Riding Shotgun
Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call. FA: A.Penney, L.Closs & M.Stacey, 1987 | 21 | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★ Curtain Call
Start: Crack system to the left of Hocus Pocus. FA: J Ewbank & J Worrall | 18 | 49m | |||||
10 |
★ El Dingle
Start: As for Curtain Call.
FA: J.Lawrence & J.Woods, 1965 | 15 | 54m, 2, 3 | |||||
11 | ★ El Dingle Direct | 14 | 33m | |||||
12 |
★ Bumbly Bites Back
Slab to face just left of Curtain Call. One tough move over the bulge. Finishes at ledge with chain - easy to lower-off and clean or top out and go home up the fixed rope. FA: C.Sloss, 1987 | 20 | 30m | |||||
13 |
El Bungle
Start: 5m left of CC. FA: A.Penney, 1978 | 18 | 17m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★★ Beginners' Steps
Rambly trad first pitch and fun bolted arete 2nd pitch. It's easy to rap in and climb out the top pitch without doing the bottom one. Start 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.
FA: Law, Grey & Smoothy, 1979 | 21 | 47m, 2, 6 | |||||
15 |
★ The Second Last Act
If you like aiding up bolt ladders you will love this. Free climb up Quits for 2 bolts - then aid to glory up shitty bolt ladder (blank rock - not free climbable). FA: J.Ewbank, J.Moore & J.Worrall, 1966 | 22 M2 | 52m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Quits
One of the best routes at Piddo and something a little bit different from the usual fair. Rebolted 2021.
FA: Michael Law & Pete Adams, 1978 | 21 R | 65m, 2, 4 | |||||
17 |
Stage Struck
Too blank to free - kind of stupid. Climb seam crack start of TSLA to slabby shelf ledge below bolted orange wall. Up orange wall (aid on old carrot bolts for a couple of moves) then up to join Quits traverse. Continue straight up (more old bolts and more aid moves because rock is blank). A couple of metres of free climbing to finish. This route is 90% bolted with bash-in carrots - only a couple of cams required. FA: S.Moon & G.Bradbury, 1985 | 23 M1 | 50m | |||||
18 |
★★ Wrapt
Start: 5m left of TSLA.
FA: M Law & G Bradbury, 1984 FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Heath Black, 15 Dec 2021 | 24 | 50m, 2, 6 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
8 | ★★ | Hocus Pocus | 49m, 15 | ||
11 | Imbecile | 52m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ | Ra | 44m | ||
14 | ★ | El Dingle Direct | 33m | ||
15 | ★ | El Dingle | 54m, 2, 3 | ||
No Static | 45m | ||||
16 | Infidel | 52m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ | Curtain Call | 49m | ||
El Bungle | 17m | ||||
19 R | ★ | Slab Right of Withdrawal | 48m | ||
20 | ★ | Bumbly Bites Back | 30m | ||
20 R | ★ | Withdrawal | 48m | ||
21 | ★★ | Beginners' Steps | 47m, 2, 6 | ||
★★ | Riding Shotgun | 30m | |||
21 R | ★★★ | Quits | 65m, 2, 4 | ||
22 M2 | ★ | The Second Last Act | 52m | ||
23 M1 | Stage Struck | 50m | |||
24 | ★★ | Wrapt | 50m, 2, 6 |